Official 330/350 (2008 and newer) Thread

tbirdvet said:
OK, update on my old bilge pump issue. I cleaned the bilge this weekend and turned on the low water bilge pump from the helm and it just ran as before but would not pump (same issue as last fall that was supposedly fixed by my dealer). I tried to prime with hose but no go. Then I decided to test the high water pump by raising the float switch. This pump pumped but when I turned it off all the water came back in. My guess it was all in the discharge hose and never left the boat. How many of you have tested your pumps recently? Did both work as designed? I want to tear these apart but I'm still trying to figure out how to reach the rear low water bilge pump.
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I test mine many times a season. They do get gunked up with crud. You need to remove them from the housing and clean every little scrap of debris in the bilge and the pumps, then degrease the bilge and leave nothing but clear fresh water behind every time. when you flush your through hulls, flush the bilge again with clear water.
 
JV II. How do you reach that low water pump at the stern between the engines?
 
My second pump is just within arms reach. It is a stretch, but I can get it. I wonder if they installed yours further aft.
 
We were on the hook this weekend, and had to add some water to the fresh water holding tank. As you know, there isn't a lot of room in the area of the tank fill. Holding a 5 gallon container of water for such a long time got a little painful, while filling the tank. Have you guys got any good methods for how to refill the tank, when you don't have access to a dock "finger"?
 
I have a 5 gal camping container with a spout that I connect garden hose to for winterizing. You could use the tank sitting on the bow near the windshield with a hose that you could put into the fill hole of the boat and let gravity do the rest.
 
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tbirdvet said:
OK, update on my old bilge pump issue. I cleaned the bilge this weekend and turned on the low water bilge pump from the helm and it just ran as before but would not pump (same issue as last fall that was supposedly fixed by my dealer). I tried to prime with hose but no go. Then I decided to test the high water pump by raising the float switch. This pump pumped but when I turned it off all the water came back in. My guess it was all in the discharge hose and never left the boat. How many of you have tested your pumps recently? Did both work as designed? I want to tear these apart but I'm still trying to figure out how to reach the rear low water bilge pump.
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My dealer found that there was an air lock between the pump and the check valve. This happens when the check valve sticks. They recommend always keep the line between the pump and check valve wet and never make your bilge completely dry. The check valve if dries out can stick and it takes quite a while to get the pump to push enough water into the valve to free it up. The high water pump does not use a check valve which is why some of the water will come back into the bilge after this pump is turned off.
 
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tbirdvet said:
Today I tried to take a closer look at my V-berth mechanism. Cannot see much thru the access door under the mattress (actually kind of useless). I'm having my dealer try to repair under warranty. I will report back what he finds.
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Update: The V-berth actuator is behind the panel in the starboard wardrobe closet. The dealer found that the electrical harness had pulled out of the actuator because it was too taut as installed by Sea Ray. He had to reroute the harness to gain more slack. Now all is OK.
 
Glad to hear - I had something similar (something pulling out of where it was supposed to be), the hose clamp for the a/c condensate return came off. Good thing I looked, before taking the first shower this year, as the condensate had started to accumulate aft of the shower sump box. No big deal, just reattached the hose, and tightened the clamp. Also, we did have an issue with a fitting on the starboard engine - it developed a crack, which caused an oil leak which required replacement of the fitting. The oil was dripping on the shaft, and due to it's spinning, the oil sprayed all over the side of the bilge. I lost a good amount of oil on a trip home. It was easily diagnosed, and fixed. I do have a small amount of water coming in through the transducer(s), in the bilge. My yard advised watching it, as we may be able to wait until fall to rebed them, once the obat is pulled. My wiper blades fell apart, within a few days of eachother, and now have new blades. Besides that, no real issues to speak of this year. We have gone on 4 trips so far, and are planning a nice week over the 4th. The weather looks great!!!
 
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ziekman@cox.net said:
Glad to hear - I had something similar (something pulling out of where it was supposed to be), the hose clamp for the a/c condensate return came off. Good thing I looked, before taking the first shower this year, as the condensate had started to accumulate aft of the shower sump box. No big deal, just reattached the hose, and tightened the clamp. Also, we did have an issue with a fitting on the starboard engine - it developed a crack, which caused an oil leak which required replacement of the fitting. The oil was dripping on the shaft, and due to it's spinning, the oil sprayed all over the side of the bilge. I lost a good amount of oil on a trip home. It was easily diagnosed, and fixed. I do have a small amount of water coming in through the transducer(s), in the bilge. My yard advised watching it, as we may be able to wait until fall to rebed them, once the obat is pulled. My wiper blades fell apart, within a few days of eachother, and now have new blades. Besides that, no real issues to speak of this year. We have gone on 4 trips so far, and are planning a nice week over the 4th. The weather looks great!!!
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Were the wiper blades special or just standard from auto store?
 
Regarding the wipers: I ended up getting replacement automotive blades, and the wipers now work even better than the originals.
 
Has anyone had issues with the vinyl underneath the sliding cabin door? Mine has begun to get unglued, and is now sagging. I have no idea how it could be fixed, other than to have the door removed, remove the vinyl sheet, reglue it, and put back together again. I'm sure someone would be more than happy to do it for a lot of money.
 
ziekman@cox.net said:
Regarding the wipers: I ended up getting replacement automotive blades, and the wipers now work even better than the originals.
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What was the brand and part number? Thanks
 
I threw out the box - but all I did was bring in the original blade to the local NAPA store, and they gave a couple of replacements - they were standard 20 in blades.
 
To support another thread on this topic how many of you with the latest models have the Northstar NS100 VFH radio and how many of you have had issues with this product? I know I have had the mic mounting break on the back and ArtZ had is PTT button break. Sound off here.
 
bport said:
Not yet sure where they will put the hatch breaker and what the setup will be...but I will post once the work is done.
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Can you tell us where the new breaker was installed?
 
Maybe I was not paying enough attention when fuel was below $4 a gallon but it seems like I used less of it when it was cheaper . I have a 2008 330DA Sundancer with 8.1 Horizon S inboards. Can't find any test reports to correlate against what I am burning. Just took a trip from Wakefield, RI to Greenport, NY which was about 98 miles roundtrip. I burned 204 gallons of fuel. Cruising speed was between 21.5 and 22.5 knots for about 85 of those miles with balance at 5 knots or less and fuel consumption was reading 38.5-40 gallons per hour depending upon seas and trim. Engines have just over 100 hours and local marina maintenance said it can't hurt to do complete tuneup.

Not sure if anyone has found a test report with fuel consumption data or has any data regarding their 8.1 engines fuel consumption. As a note my traveling partner on the trip has a 2000 Cruisers 3675 with 7.2? Crusader engines and he burned 80 gallons less fuel on the trip than I did. At $5.09 a gallon on Long Island (fortunately a dollar less per gallon in Rhode Island) it does not take too many fill ups to cover cost of tune up if this really would increase my file economy.

Thanks for reading.
 
John-Burgess said:
Maybe I was not paying enough attention when fuel was below $4 a gallon but it seems like I used less of it when it was cheaper . I have a 2008 330DA Sundancer with 8.1 Horizon S inboards. Can't find any test reports to correlate against what I am burning. Just took a trip from Wakefield, RI to Greenport, NY which was about 98 miles roundtrip. I burned 204 gallons of fuel. Cruising speed was between 21.5 and 22.5 knots for about 85 of those miles with balance at 5 knots or less and fuel consumption was reading 38.5-40 gallons per hour depending upon seas and trim. Engines have just over 100 hours and local marina maintenance said it can't hurt to do complete tuneup.

Not sure if anyone has found a test report with fuel consumption data or has any data regarding their 8.1 engines fuel consumption. As a note my traveling partner on the trip has a 2000 Cruisers 3675 with 7.2? Crusader engines and he burned 80 gallons less fuel on the trip than I did. At $5.09 a gallon on Long Island (fortunately a dollar less per gallon in Rhode Island) it does not take too many fill ups to cover cost of tune up if this really would increase my file economy.

Thanks for reading.
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Something is not right. You should be getting 0.8- 0.9 mph at 3500 RPM. By your calculations, you are getting less than 0.5 mpg. With the best circumstances, you may be able to achieve 1 mpg. If your bottom were completely fouled with barnacles you may approach that 0.5 mpg. Assuming you are running the correct props and nothing has changed there, you should look at the bottom of the boat. You are dragging something.

I have I/Os, but even with IBs you should be running a little faster at 40 gph. With full fuel tanks, 1/4 water tank, 2 adults, 2 children, and provisions for 10 days, I burn ~33 gph at 3500 RPM, which gets me to 27-28 knots. You should be close to these numbers even with the IBs.
 
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