Official 240 Sundancer Thread

NoWakey said:
Just an information offering....
We installed a 6500 BTU unit in our 240. During a hot August day, it will run almost continuously to keep the cabin @ 75 degrees. At night, different deal. We will dial it down to 70 and it might run briefly three times an hour. FYI.

Cheers,

Jim
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Is it possible that the refreshing Iowa humidity (have family in Waverly/Shell Rock), in August plays a role in a system struggling a bit? Obviously Arizona is a dry climate, which I am hoping will play into my favor, “hoping” is key here! As I stated above, I still do have concerns about the 5K unit, but it is the largest unit with the smallest dimensions available.

jg300da said:
Yup, that's why 7000BTU is the correct unit. These units are sized for the highest heat load scenario. 5000BTU will keep things comfortable at night but fall well short during those dog days. Why not just do it right?
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I’m limited on space in the v-berth, which is where I am choosing to install the a/c unit. Thus the 5K unit that I have selected is as big as I can go, dimension wise. Our mid-cabin is used exclusively as our bed and we simply cannot afford to lose any space there, which if I’m not mistaken is the only other plausible location for an a/c unit in a 240DA. So, I still think I am doing it somewhat “right” given my individual circumstances, just compromising in certain areas.

Regards,
Chris
 
I have the 7000btu factory unti in mine. it's installed to starboard of the rear berth with vents into the main cabin. In the florida heat the 7000BTU unit runs hard constantly. the thing to note is that the untis work off of heat exchange and can normally only drop the temp about 20 degrees. So on a 95% day the best you will get is 75%, but once the sunsets and stops baking the boat it can drop the temp in the cabin nicely.
 
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Kurt said:
Do you really think you need 7000btu for less than at best 100 square foot. I am just looking at other options since in Missouri you really only need AC for about 5-weekend nights a season otherwise the lake is pretty cool at night.
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It's not the heat as much as the humidity. Even if it's cool out, being on the water it's usually pretty sticky, and theres nothing worse (for me anyway) than waking up stuck to the sheets. I had the factory air in my 240 and during the day it would take an hour or more to cool the cabin, at night it would freeze you out. I think once you have the A/C you will be using more than 5 times a season. We used ours every weekend, didn't matter if it was 65 or 90 degrees at night.

Do you have a genset on your boat or do you plan on sitting at the dock alot?
 
I agree the Missouri humidity is bad. I do not have a genset. I bought this boat as a factory closeout for a good price so I was limited in it's options. I got a quote of $3500 for AC from the dealer, but I instead went upgraded the stereo system and added a TV LCD, DVD and upgraded the speakers/amps/sub and spent $2500. So this year I will just have to tuff it out istead of throwing all of my money in the water.
 
tphinney said:
I have the 7000btu factory unti in mine. it's installed to starboard of the rear berth with vents into the main cabin. In the florida heat the 7000BTU unit runs hard constantly. the thing to note is that the untis work off of heat exchange and can normally only drop the temp about 20 degrees. So on a 95% day the best you will get is 75%, but once the sunsets and stops baking the boat it can drop the temp in the cabin nicely.
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That 20deg difference you're talking about is called the "split", and it refers to the difference in air temp entering the cooling coil and the temp leaving the coil, not outside air temp. So as the cabin cools down the supply air temp gets lower. A properly sized unit should keep the cabin very cool even on the hottest day.

Arizona240DA,

The factory unit gets mounted behind the starboard bulkhead in the mid cabin and does not use up any room in the cabin itself. This does not limit the physical size of the unit.
 
Kurt said:
I agree the Missouri humidity is bad. I do not have a genset. I bought this boat as a factory closeout for a good price so I was limited in it's options. I got a quote of $3500 for AC from the dealer, but I instead went upgraded the stereo system and added a TV LCD, DVD and upgraded the speakers/amps/sub and spent $2500. So this year I will just have to tuff it out istead of throwing all of my money in the water.
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Get a good fan and leave the cabin door open. I don't think you will be very confortable down in the cabin watching TV or DVD's in the middle of the summer. But, I'm probably a bit older than you and my creature comforts come before stereo's & TV's, or should I say my wifes creature comforts come before my toys...:huh::grin:
 
Chris,

There is no question that the humidity in this part of the country is a substantial contributing factor to how we "Feel" the heat. So the ability/capacity of the A/C unit to remove the humidity definitely contributes to comfort level.
I am not an HVAC expert but I think the basics are Therms In, and Therms out. The inside of your cabin is X temperature (Therms In) and the A/C unit has the capacity to remove/transfer X Therms out. So I think it's all going to boil down to what comfort level you would like to have during the day that will drive what size unit you install.
Regarding your proposed 5000 BTU A/C unit:
Question, if you install the A/C unit up in the V-berth, where is your condensate line going to go?
Regarding A/C installations in the Mid-Berth:
As mentioned in a previous post you should not loose any room in the Mid-Berth if the installation is done properly. If you are interested in more detail on what is involved with this type of installation follow the link below to a post that I made earlier this spring.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7928
Good luck with your project!

Cheers,

Jim
 
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240 Cooling System

Does anyone know if the 99 dancer has a fresh water or closed cooling system? I am concerned about my running temp (165 - 169). 305 merc with alpha 1 drive

thanks
 
165 - 175 are the normal thermosat ranges I see. Since I installed a drive shower on my Bravo III I tend to see more in the 165 range. Bravo III's are heat monsters....
 
Hello!
New to the boards and new to Sea Ray! Just bought an '01 240 Sundancer! Looking forward to sharing info on this site.
 
TOTALLY CRAZY said:
Hello!
New to the boards and new to Sea Ray! Just bought an '01 240 Sundancer! Looking forward to sharing info on this site.
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Welcome aboard. That boat looks familiar!:smt001
When you get a chance, post your boat info in your signature.
Enjoy your stay.
 
Does anyone know who makes the hatch for our boat? One of the spring or lift spring for the hatch has been bent, dont ask me how. I need to replace the whole bar.
 
Most of the times. I find that for parts like these it's actually cheaper and easier to order direct from Marine Max.
 
So first of all I will admit when I am wrong, I WAS WRONG. Therefore it was hot as heck this weekend and the cabin was sticky so I bought a 7000 btu poratable AC unit from Haier for $300 It is 24'tall 17'wide and 13'deep weighing in at 55lb. I plan to keep it in the bathroom and vent it out the bathroom port window. It is non-condensating and mists water out the exhaust so no drain needed. While running down the lake I plan to bungee it upright in the aft. All comments and criticism welcome. I will report back next week on funcionality.
 
I just obtained electrical power at my boat slip and have several questions concerning using this new power.

1. Do I need to install an "isolator" device to prevent deteroiation of the outdrive, or would my 2000 DA have one already installed as part of standard equipment?

2. My Mercathode system appears to work only when I leave the battery switch to one of the "on" positions. Is it possible to have it "hotwired" to the battery and shore power would keep it activated?

3. What position do I leave my battery selector in order to charge my batteries at the dock? My owner's manual contained several different wiring schematics, so it's hard to tell how my boat is exactly wired. Is there a way of using a multi-meter to make that determination?
 
bob said:
I just obtained electrical power at my boat slip and have several questions concerning using this new power.

1. Do I need to install an "isolator" device to prevent deteroiation of the outdrive, or would my 2000 DA have one already installed as part of standard equipment?

2. My Mercathode system appears to work only when I leave the battery switch to one of the "on" positions. Is it possible to have it "hotwired" to the battery and shore power would keep it activated?

3. What position do I leave my battery selector in order to charge my batteries at the dock? My owner's manual contained several different wiring schematics, so it's hard to tell how my boat is exactly wired. Is there a way of using a multi-meter to make that determination?
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#1 - No, There is already a galvanic isolator in your electrical feed.

#2 - Your Mercathode System is always on no matter what position your battery switch is in, even the OFF position.

#3 - Same deal with your battery charger. As long as your AC converter is ON, your battery's will charge no matter the position of the battery switch.

Cheers,

Jim
 
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