Official 240 Sundancer Thread

I'm not positive, but I think the 5.0 is 240hp
5.7 is 260hp and 350 mag is 300hp
 
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Eddiemorales: I couldn't open your link--it takes me to an Adobe Information page and my computer already has the Adobe Reader installed.

My reason for asking this question was that my new boat appears to have the same acceleration as my old boat (220 DA) which had a 5.7 carburator rated at 260 hp and Alpha 1 outdrive. So, the new engine is smaller, but has electronic ignition and a more efficient (?) outdrive, but the boat weighs almost 1000 lbs heavier. One would think that horsepower would be similar. Could it be the 240 has a more efficient hull?
 
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bob said:
My 2000 240 DA is equipped with the 5.0L/B3 package, but I can't get much info about it. What is its horsepower? I know the later versions with the MPI system generates 260 hp, but I can't seem to find anything with my power package other than an obscure reference to 220 hp. Somehow, that doesn't sound right.
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The carberated 5.0 is 220 HP the EFI 5.0 is 240 HP and the MPI 5.0 is 260 HP. I don't know when they started measuring HP at the prop vs. engine, but that may be some of the difference. Todays HP is measured at the prop "PHP" vs back in the day when HP was measured at the engine and there was always a drop in HP that actually reached the prop.
 
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I was finally able to open the PDF document that EddieMorales posted. I find it interesting the horsepower is rated the same, whether you have a B II or B III. My only prior experience was with my 220 DA with the Alpha I outdrive. About the major difference I can see is at low speeds, there is less wandering and I don't have to make so many constant corrections to track a straight course with the B III..
 
I am looking for some advice on installing my canvas top and windows for my Sundancer 240. I am a new boat owner and I am having difficulty getting the canvas installed into the windshield.

Should I be starting there and working back?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
MaconWaves..........Welcome to CSR. I am pretty sure we can help you but can you tell us what year your boat is? It would be helpfull if you could add that information permanently to your signature so it shows up in a fashion similar to mine.

Assumming you have a newer 240DA, the trick is to first start the zipper on a panel and only zip it a an inch or two and then do your snaps. Follow the same procedure with each adjoining panel leaving the zipper loose where it joins the adjacent panel as well. This leaves you with enough slack to get the canvas pulled into place and the snaps snugged down. Then you can close the zippers. It helps if the sun is shining as well to keep the isenglass nice and pliable.
 
Thanks for the tip. Is this better? I have a 2000 240.
The canvas does not have snaps. It seems you push them into a groove on the windshield. Not really an easy task.
 
MaconWaves said:
Thanks for the tip. Is this better? I have a 2000 240.
The canvas does not have snaps. It seems you push them into a groove on the windshield. Not really an easy task.
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You're right and it absolutely sucks doing it the first few times. I started a thread on this subject a little while ago and will try to dig it up for you…..got some pretty good tips. It is easier now that I have done it a few times, but it is difficult pressing it into the windshield channel until you get the hang of it.
 
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You could always do what I did...replace the rubber tracking with snaps! Much easier!
snapcanvas1.jpg

snaps.jpg
 
That is freaking brilliant! Do you recall where you got the snap-backsets (my terminology) that fit into the windshield channel?
 
Arizona240DA said:
That is freaking brilliant! Do you recall where you got the snap-backsets (my terminology) that fit into the windshield channel?
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I don't know if it's brilliant, but...a local canvas shop did the job for $75. ( I can get you the phone # if you want to call and find out how to acquire them).
If I could redo it all again, someone here had just added snaps at the ends and left the rubber tracking. That seemed to be the spot that gave me the most problems. (peeling away from the track). With the rubber tracking, you get a nice sealed clean fit, even though it is a pain to do.
I put my top up and down a lot. Putting the rubber in the track kills my thumbs!
 
Whaler, are you talking about a stock or aftermarket a/c system? What year is your 240? You may want to set your sig up with some of the details....really comes in handy when some of the guys on here answer questions, etc. In any event, there area few boats out my way that have generators mounted on their swim platforms, or they put them on shore and run a chord, and yes, they do operate their a/c systems. Some stock systems may pull a bit too much for most generators to handle.
 
jg300da said:
Ok, it's becoming painfully obvious the more I drive this boat, that it simply does not like a lot of trim tab. If I have the tabs down to get on plane I must immediately raise them or else spend the next 10 minutes constantly tweaking them. I measured them and found they were the same size as the ones on my 300DA. This translates into a major result with the smallest of adjustments. The boat seems to be very stable on plane with both tabs retracted, but when they're both deployed it's almost as if the hull is not allowed to track properly. I'm wondering if anyone else is experiencing this?
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Hi,
We bought our 3rd Sea Ray this past May, a new (2007) 240 DA, and we experience the same effect you mention. What I've found that works, for me, is to keep the tabs retracted till I need them for rough water where I really need to keep the bow level.
 
I do not own a sea ray 24 at this time, but iam in the market for a new 2007 or 2008 model. I will be cruising the ICW. Majority of the time I will overnighting at anchor. I will be using the stock a/c unit, powered by a Honda generator, 2000 series. The salesman told me that would work, but it would only power the a/c only. The generator would be placed on the swim platform overnight. My question is has anyone done this with a small generator and does it function properly.
 
whaler14 said:
I do not own a sea ray 24 at this time, but iam in the market for a new 2007 or 2008 model. I will be cruising the ICW. Majority of the time I will overnighting at anchor. I will be using the stock a/c unit, powered by a Honda generator, 2000 series. The salesman told me that would work, but it would only power the a/c only. The generator would be placed on the swim platform overnight. My question is has anyone done this with a small generator and does it function properly.
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This has been a very hot topic on our board. Personally I would not consider a portable generator myself for safety reasons. Maybe this post will give you some background on people's feelings on the subject. http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3008&highlight=honda
 
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