Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Sounds like one of the smartcraft sensors is overiding the throttle and not allowing you to achieve maximum rpm........See if a mercruiser dealer can plug in to the diagnostics.......

Rookie mistake on my part. My gearlube for the stern drive was low. That was putting the engine in guardian mode. Added the right amount and now she is running better.
 
Here is where I installed the 7.7 and 6.5 as well as the 10" sub
u2u2yhuz.jpg
saru5asu.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Does anyone have pictures or a good explanation of how to pull out the stereo/microwave "cabinet"? I pulled the factory clarion to replace it with a newer one that actually works but there isn't much room to work with from just through the stereo opening. Can't see any obvious points where it's mounted to the bulkhead and I definitely don't want to do any damage muscling it away from the wall. However if I have no choice but to pry it a few inches to get to wherever it's secured from then that's what I'll do. Just wanted to ask before I go tearing something up. Worst case scenario I figure I can disconnect shore power and pull the AC power panel to get more visible access that way.

Sorry if this has been covered before. I wasn't able to find it through my feeble search attempts.
 
Does anyone have pictures or a good explanation of how to pull out the stereo/microwave "cabinet"? I pulled the factory clarion to replace it with a newer one that actually works but there isn't much room to work with from just through the stereo opening. Can't see any obvious points where it's mounted to the bulkhead and I definitely don't want to do any damage muscling it away from the wall. However if I have no choice but to pry it a few inches to get to wherever it's secured from then that's what I'll do. Just wanted to ask before I go tearing something up. Worst case scenario I figure I can disconnect shore power and pull the AC power panel to get more visible access that way.

Sorry if this has been covered before. I wasn't able to find it through my feeble search attempts.


Anyone?? Even went so far as to buy a cheap inspection camera so I could get a better view of what's back there and I didn't see any obvious points in which the cabinet is secured. In the mean time I manage to do a half ass job at wiring it up and all my speakers work great but I would really like to clean up the wiring behind that cabinet. Knowing it wasn't done right eats me up inside lol.
 
Anyone know what this brass key is for? Came on the key ring the marina kept for the old owner. They said it isn't a marina key so before I throw it out I figured I would see if anyone here knows...
 
I've seen keys like that used in car alarms and real estate lock boxes.:huh:
 
Last edited:
It's an ACE key used for ACE cam lock or switch. It could have been for a gate switch or alarm the PO had, but never passed along the info to the marina. I doubt it fits anything on your boat, unless there is a small safe or something on board that is aftermarket.
 
Does anyone have pictures or a good explanation of how to pull out the stereo/microwave "cabinet"? I pulled the factory clarion to replace it with a newer one that actually works but there isn't much room to work with from just through the stereo opening. Can't see any obvious points where it's mounted to the bulkhead and I definitely don't want to do any damage muscling it away from the wall. However if I have no choice but to pry it a few inches to get to wherever it's secured from then that's what I'll do. Just wanted to ask before I go tearing something up. Worst case scenario I figure I can disconnect shore power and pull the AC power panel to get more visible access that way.

Sorry if this has been covered before. I wasn't able to find it through my feeble search attempts.

I was able to clean up all the wiring and replace my stereo through the electrical panel hole. My panel was held on by only 4 screws. Take,that panel off and you have a nice big access hole to get behind the stereo and into that entire cabinet.
 
Re: 240 Da height when on Trailer

Hi, I'm planning for a shed and my boat is already in the water for summer. I searched thread and see info that a 240 DA on a dual trailer is 10'5" to the top of the dash, and need 13' if the bimini's are up. Does anyone that tow's or stores boat happen to know what their clearance is to top of dash and bimini.

Regards,

Joel C.

Joel,

i think your information is off by quite a bit. My 1996 240 sundancer is on a dual axel trailer. By barn has a 12' door height and I put it in with bimini's up without any problem. I have at least a foot to spare. I could measure info you want me to. Sorry I haven't been on the forum for a while and didn't see that you had asked this question. I would estimate that it is 10.5' to the top of the Bimini from the ground.
 
I was able to clean up all the wiring and replace my stereo through the electrical panel hole. My panel was held on by only 4 screws. Take,that panel off and you have a nice big access hole to get behind the stereo and into that entire cabinet.


Thanks. That's what I figured. SeaRay product support told me they believe that the cabinet was built so there is no way to easily remove it. Do you know by Chance are all the carpeted trim panels just secured by hidden screws that can be easily removed or are they glued and screwed? Need to route the new stereo remote from the helm... Think I'm gonna have to route from the helm down to the aft berth and then over to the galley that way.
 
Re: 240 Da height when on Trailer

Joel,

i think your information is off by quite a bit. My 1996 240 sundancer is on a dual axel trailer. By barn has a 12' door height and I put it in with bimini's up without any problem. I have at least a foot to spare. I could measure info you want me to. Sorry I haven't been on the forum for a while and didn't see that you had asked this question. I would estimate that it is 10.5' to the top of the Bimini from the ground.

I store my 2006 240da under a metal carport, it has 12ft legs, and a gable end that makes the end clearance 12ft. My boat will go under with the bimini up. But the bimini barely clears the gable rafter, by inches. My boat trailer has 16in wheels and tires though. So depending on your set up it will go under 12ft.....just will, but will.
 
240 Refrigerator operation

Hi, we were looking at a 2000 240 this past weekend that we liked, but have a question regarding the refrigerator. Specifically, is it a dual voltage unit, or just 12v. Without the shore power on, the refrigerator seemed to work with the refriferator 12v toggle switch on the side of the cabinet turned on. Then we hooked up shore power, turned on the main in the power panel, and noticed there was also a switch that said outlets/refrigerator. So, we then turned off the 12v refrig. toggle switch, thinking that it should now be working off the 110 power, but the refrigerator went off. Is this right, or should it have kept working on the shore power?
Otherwise it looks like a decent boat.
 
Re: 240 Refrigerator operation

Hi, we were looking at a 2000 240 this past weekend that we liked, but have a question regarding the refrigerator. Specifically, is it a dual voltage unit, or just 12v. Without the shore power on, the refrigerator seemed to work with the refriferator 12v toggle switch on the side of the cabinet turned on. Then we hooked up shore power, turned on the main in the power panel, and noticed there was also a switch that said outlets/refrigerator. So, we then turned off the 12v refrig. toggle switch, thinking that it should now be working off the 110 power, but the refrigerator went off. Is this right, or should it have kept working on the shore power?
Otherwise it looks like a decent boat.

Is your shore power working? Is the Outlets/Refridge switch on when you are trying to use it with shore power?
 
Re: 240 Refrigerator operation

Our boats have always had two sections on the electrical panel. One for the DC side (when running off Battery and alternator), and one for AC (for when you are plugged in to shore power). Probably you toggled off the DC switch but did not toggle on the AC switch ??
 
Re: 240 Refrigerator operation

Yes, the shorepower is working, and there is voltage to the outlets. In addition to the GFI outlet on the outside of the cabinet, there is also an outlet just inside the galley cabinet door, with a plug in it, which I am pretty sure is the refrigerator, becasue there is no microwave or anything else electric in the galley. There is power to that outlet also. I'm just not sure if that toggle switch on the outside of the cabinet marked refrigerator 12v needs to be on all the time or not, whether using shore power or 12v.
 
That switch only needs to be on if you wish to run the fridge and/or outlets from dc power. Once you're plugged in to shore power, the breaker switch on the ac panel will enable the same way. I usually make sure to turn the dc switch off when I am not hooked to shore power or when the fine isn't running. It will put quite a draw on the battery.
 
That switch only needs to be on if you wish to run the fridge and/or outlets from dc power. Once you're plugged in to shore power, the breaker switch on the ac panel will enable the same way. I usually make sure to turn the dc switch off when I am not hooked to shore power or when the fine isn't running. It will put quite a draw on the battery.

The unit should have a power supply that will switch to AC automatically when present. The 12VDC side will only be used when AC is not present and the breaker is on.
 
Ok, thanks for the replies. It looks like the refrigerator has a problem, because it works when the 12v switch is turned on without shore power, but when I turn the 12v switch off and turn on the refrigerator switch on the breaker panel only, with the shore power hooked up and turned on, the refrigerator doesn't work. This is probably no good, because I would only use the refrigerator with the shore power, not wanting to drain the batteries using dc.
Also, I noticed that there must have been many options offered on the model. I have been looking at mainly 2000-2001's. On some the windows in the cabin open, w/screens in them, and have a bolster seat at the helm. On this particular one, the port hole windows are fixed, only the window in the aft cabin opens, and it doesn't have a bolster seat.
 
Ok, thanks for the replies. It looks like the refrigerator has a problem, because it works when the 12v switch is turned on without shore power, but when I turn the 12v switch off and turn on the refrigerator switch on the breaker panel only, with the shore power hooked up and turned on, the refrigerator doesn't work. This is probably no good, because I would only use the refrigerator with the shore power, not wanting to drain the batteries using dc.
Also, I noticed that there must have been many options offered on the model. I have been looking at mainly 2000-2001's. On some the windows in the cabin open, w/screens in them, and have a bolster seat at the helm. On this particular one, the port hole windows are fixed, only the window in the aft cabin opens, and it doesn't have a bolster seat.


My cousin has the same boat. I'll call him this morning and verify what he does. The 240DA and 260DA ARE slightly different on how the fridge works. The 260DA does not have the 12V switch.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,238
Messages
1,429,075
Members
61,119
Latest member
KenBoat
Back
Top