Official 240 Sundancer Thread

Amber said:
Hello Everyone,

First time boat owner with a 2000 240 sundancer.

I'm in shock from what i saw under the shower sump pump underneath the stairs.
I was trying to solve why i had some water underneath the stairs,some of the posts
talked about the pump having a crack on the casing or not emptying.
When i removed the sump pump i found a six inch round cutout with a screw in the middle
and small amount of water coming up from that hole on the floor.
What is the reason for the hole and are the stringers now shot?

Thank you in advance

pics

View attachment 35437

View attachment 35438

View attachment 35436
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So, you're saying that the circle has been cut out with a hole saw and then re-inserted? .....And there is water coming up through the hole? Yikes! :wow:

Is the water, that you think you are seeing coming from the hole, pink, like in the sump, or clear?
 
At the begining of the year we had some overheating issues. Replaced the manifolds and risers and there is a new impeller on the 5.0 MPI Bravo 3 and the over heating problem seemd to subside. However the temprature seems to flutuate much more than it did several years ago. My range used to be about 150-156. Now the range is 148 to upwards of 185 and i get the over heating alarm. The engine seems slow to react when the temp rises so high. Am I correct in thinking that the thermostat most likely needs to be replaced?
 
It could be the thermostat, but do you have fresh water cooling (Closed cooling)? If so, maybe you have a clog, debris, scaling or pieces of the previous impeller restricting flow?
 
Amber, As Chris said, repost bigger pics through a service like Photobucket. Upload the pics to an account there and use the "IMG" links to post here. I'm aware of what the sump is, but have never had a look at the bottom of one. I was wondering if the bottom of that base has a circle matching your ring I see in your pic. Or, is there an actual cut in that flooring/base? You need to thoroughly investigate this as standing water will lead to serious rot and structural damage.
 
Closed cooling? What's that? Kidding, I wish I had closed cooling. I also had the tube that runs from the outdrive up replaced within the last 4 months. the system is pretty clean right now. Got a guy coming to do the thermostat this week.
 
Re: Windows and Aft curtain

Chris Nowell said:
A lot of the members here go straight to the Great Lakes Boat Top Company. I believe they are the original contractors who make the tops for the Sea Ray factories. That's where I'll be getting our next one from. Can't beat the quality and I think they have a special on right now.

http://www.greatlakesboattop.com/
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info! I'll give them a try!
 
I just ordered a cockpit cover from Great Lakes for my 2002 240 Dancer and the quality of the cover is excellent. The price seemed reasonable as well. I am trying to figure out where to install the snaps along bottom of the front & side windows. Can someone give me some information on where the snaps are located? (How far from the base of the window, how many on front and each side, distance between snaps, etc.)
Thanks in advance.
 
240 Da height when on Trailer

Hi, I'm planning for a shed and my boat is already in the water for summer. I searched thread and see info that a 240 DA on a dual trailer is 10'5" to the top of the dash, and need 13' if the bimini's are up. Does anyone that tow's or stores boat happen to know what their clearance is to top of dash and bimini.

Regards,

Joel C.
 
Thanks for your Reply

Yes I'm worried about standing water,its looks like there is a reason for the hole but i don't know why yet .








Nehalennia said:
Amber, As Chris said, repost bigger pics through a service like Photobucket. Upload the pics to an account there and use the "IMG" links to post here. I'm aware of what the sump is, but have never had a look at the bottom of one. I was wondering if the bottom of that base has a circle matching your ring I see in your pic. Or, is there an actual cut in that flooring/base? You need to thoroughly investigate this as standing water will lead to serious rot and structural damage.
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Amber, I'll take a guess at what I see in the photos.

My guess would be, the sump box didn't work well, or maybe not at all. The previous owner figured if he cut a hole into the "bilge area" the water would drain in there, and the bilge pump would clear the water. I'm sure they figured out why this hairbrained modification didn't work, so they tried (half a$$) to put the cutout back in. If you remove the screw in the center of the cutout, you'll find a board that the screw bites into to hold the cutout piece down. Then they put some type of sealer in the clearance around the cutout piece.

It looks like you can pull out the cutout, clean it all up, and glass it back in properly. I think that will be the only way to get the bilge sealed back up correctly, and stop the water from getting past the horrible patch job. When you pull the cutout, post some pics. I'm currious what it looks like under there.
 
Also, the carpet in there. I trimmed mine back so that when water did get in there, it didn't get wicked up by the carpet, and make the floor wet.
The sump box in my 240 never worked right. I felt like the sump box used on the 240's were to short. My pump worked fine, The float switch was the culprit. Not enough room for the float to operate fully. I installed the sump box used in the 260da (different design) and have never had a proble since.
The issue in my case was the a/c condensate drain would fill the sump box very slowly, and the float would not turn the pump on. Then the box overflowed to the space under the step and when that got full the carpet got wet. It took me awhile to figure out the problem because it worked when using it to shower or dumping water into the head drain to check it. I realized the carpet would only be wet in the morning after running the a/c all night.
 
islandhopper00 said:
Also, the carpet in there. I trimmed mine back so that when water did get in there, it didn't get wicked up by the carpet, and make the floor wet.
The sump box in my 240 never worked right. I felt like the sump box used on the 240's were to short. My pump worked fine, The float switch was the culprit. Not enough room for the float to operate fully. I installed the sump box used in the 260da (different design) and have never had a proble since.
The issue in my case was the a/c condensate drain would fill the sump box very slowly, and the float would not turn the pump on. Then the box overflowed to the space under the step and when that got full the carpet got wet. It took me awhile to figure out the problem because it worked when using it to shower or dumping water into the head drain to check it. I realized the carpet would only be wet in the morning after running the a/c all night.
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He says he has water coming up and leaking through that cutout thingy. That shouldn't be possible at all...should it?
 
Woody said:
He says he has water coming up and leaking through that cutout thingy. That shouldn't be possible at all...should it?
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My thought on that is your correct. At least untill they cut the hole. Then the inner bottom filled up from the "spilled" water.
After the inner bottom filled up, the water sloshed toward the back during normal operation. Then, when sitting level, as in floating at anchor, the water finds level. As the op and family went down below and moved weight forward, the bow becomes lower than the stern and water moves forward thus putting pressure against the bad patch job and leaked back into the forward bilge.

Does that make sence? Remember, this is theory, maybe a bad wrong diagnosis, or flat out wrong. But it's what my mind came up with. Haha
 
I feel the op will have to remove the cutout patch. Then remove any water that is trapped in there. Then some how dry the "inner bottom" space, by vacuuming, pumping, running a fan/blower into the hole...whatever means. Then inspect for damage, or rot from the trapped water. Then fix as necessary, and properly reseal the cutout hole.

Then fix that sump box! haha Wait, not funny, not laughing at all. This could be serious depending on how long the water has been in there.
 
Very little water coming out of it now for some reason and yes water is clear.


Jposey66 said:
So, you're saying that the circle has been cut out with a hole saw and then re-inserted? .....And there is water coming up through the hole? Yikes! :wow:

Is the water, that you think you are seeing coming from the hole, pink, like in the sump, or clear?
Click to expand...
 
I may be wrong but isn't that hole in a liner and not actually in the hull? I don't think the boat will sink if the hole plug is removed. The actual hull in that part of the boat is extremely thick. Wait for other input before you try removing it though. I'm no expert. I'm thinking it may provide access to the forward part of the bilge. I'd say pull the plug out and have a look. If it were me I'd try to pour water down there to see if it finds it's way to the back where the bilge pump is. You can always shop vac it out if the experiment doesn't work. I'm croakin' to know what's under there. Are you moored or on a trailer?
 
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Just guessing here, also, but I'm thinking they were trying to get to the back of the boat with something. Drain lines, maybe, to fix the sump issues. I bet, when they pulled that plug out, they realized that this area was full of floatation and just sealed it back up. I have done some exploratory surgery, on my 240 when trying to figure out how to run hoses and ducts for permanent air, and discovered that the enclosed areas along each chine under the head and port cabinets are full of floatation foam. I'm guessing this area was full of it also and they just sealed it back up. Is there usually any water in your bilge?

For the sump issues, I swapped the foot switch to an electronic water sensor/switch. When it senses water, it comes on, and then continues to run until 30 seconds after it last senses water. The old foot switch would stick sometimes, as the water rose very slowly, like Mike mentioned, and run over. No more problems after swapping to the electronic sensor and that 30 second thing keeps the sump very dry. Before, the sump always had an inch or two of water in it. Here is the switch that I swapped to.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-S3-Digital-Bilge-Switch/14150756

Posey


Posey
 
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