Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

$hit happens! A guy at the marina next door backed down to set his anchor near a private mooring ball. He backed right over the line and managed to get it wrapped around both props. It bent the shafts and bent the struts.

Can't wait to see what your RPM and speed reports are. And fuel consumption.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I will keep you informed. At least I didn't bend the shafts or tear up the struts. Shop is going to do a fast pull so I can cut the rest off.
 
Sorry about the net problem. That's not something I'm accustomed to around here, but glad the prop performance was good and also look forward to hearing about performance numbers.

My trailer adjustment session didn't get very far (because there's a lot of adjustments needed, but I think I know what I have to do. Pics for that will come later. Until then, here are some from our little trip up the river this week. I think it was about 140 miles in total.









 
I miss going thru the locks. That lock has one hell of a lift / drop!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My childhood was spent on the Erie and Champlain canals in upstate NY.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I love the pictures! The diver came down today and cleared the props but the tide wasn't in my favor. I'm going to take her out for a good run tomorrow and I will post RPM and speed tomorrow night. Fuel consumption will have to wait till my next fill up.
 
Sea cock strainer gasket replacement: I pulled the cap for the raw water intake for the head system. Has rubber, going to use cork as suggested here, but my other question is: is there a lubricant I can use on the threads to slow the rust, or is a spanner wrench a requirement? That cap was so tight I had to tap it gently with a hammer to get it started spinning. Both sets of threads are quite rusty, though they don't look damaged.

Also, is the Jabsco electric head (37010) supposed to recirculate in any way? It does when you first start flushing--so when we put the tank treatment down the head, the rinse is orange/citrus for a bit and then clears. With other jobs, it does the same thing (ewwwww). We haven't changed the config from how it was when we bought it, though the motor died last year so we've already replaced the pump assembly and reconnected existing hoses. Thoughts on whether some worn/leaking components may be allowing the discharge to backwash into the intake somehow, and whether that's by design or due to wear/tear?

Opening the raw water line smelled suspiciously like I had opened the discharge line, and I promise I know the difference! (It was a whole different story opening the line for the AC intake; nothing but regular old lake water there.)
 
Last edited:
If you need a spanner wrench then you don't have the same strainer as I do. My caps are held down with wing nuts. If you found rubber, I would use the same again. Is it a Perko strainer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
H2ONUT said:
If you need a spanner wrench then you don't have the same strainer as I do. My caps are held down with wing nuts. If you found rubber, I would use the same again. Is it a Perko strainer?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Strainers for head and AC are Groco, labeled "hand-tighten or use spanner wrench." The O-rings/gaskets seemed to be in good shape and haven't been leaking, though I didn't remove them because I didn't have replacements with me. I didn't get to the ones for the engines to see if they're different.

Looks like Defender has Groco rubber gasket kits.
 
T mine are the same as Marks and I have a VacuFlush head. Can you post a picture? Ours are bronze and glass with a stainless steal strainer basket. My head is fed using fresh water from the water tank. The strainer is for my AC.

During the season I clean and clear the four strainers I have every other month. It allows me to excersize the seacocks and clean the baskets and the strainer. It helps to do all that when its time to winterize to have those seacocks.
 
Raw water intake for the head; the one for the AC is the same model. Both baskets look to be stainless.


SeacockStrainer_GROCO.jpg
 
trflgrl said:
Sea cock strainer gasket replacement: I pulled the cap for the raw water intake for the head system. Has rubber, going to use cork as suggested here, but my other question is: is there a lubricant I can use on the threads to slow the rust, or is a spanner wrench a requirement? That cap was so tight I had to tap it gently with a hammer to get it started spinning. Both sets of threads are quite rusty, though they don't look damaged.

Also, is the Jabsco electric head (37010) supposed to recirculate in any way? It does when you first start flushing--so when we put the tank treatment down the head, the rinse is orange/citrus for a bit and then clears. With other jobs, it does the same thing (ewwwww). We haven't changed the config from how it was when we bought it, though the motor died last year so we've already replaced the pump assembly and reconnected existing hoses. Thoughts on whether some worn/leaking components may be allowing the discharge to backwash into the intake somehow, and whether that's by design or due to wear/tear?

Opening the raw water line smelled suspiciously like I had opened the discharge line, and I promise I know the difference! (It was a whole different story opening the line for the AC intake; nothing but regular old lake water there.)
Click to expand...
Mine required a spanner wrench. Bought one and I keep it on the boat. The tops only need to be snug though.

I replaced both sight glasses( mine were plastic) and o rings this past spring.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
jrdtlm7579 said:
Mine were the same. I got my parts at www.marinepartssource.com they are in White House and usually have everything in stock.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Also there is a rubber valve called a "joker valve" that is in the discharge line where it mounts to the head. It allows the water to pass one way only. It sort of looks like a round duck bill.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
jrdtlm7579 said:
Mine were the same. I got my parts at www.marinepartssource.com they are in White House and usually have everything in stock.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks!

jrdtlm7579 said:
Also there is a rubber valve called a "joker valve" that is in the discharge line where it mounts to the head. It allows the water to pass one way only. It sort of looks like a round duck bill.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Perhaps this is the culprit allowing discharge to backflow and become part of the rinse cycle? So if we disconnect the discharge line, we would look in the head side of the connection for the joker valve/duckbill?
 
trflgrl said:
Thanks!


Perhaps this is the culprit allowing discharge to backflow and become part of the rinse cycle? So if we disconnect the discharge line, we would look in the head side of the connection for the joker valve/duckbill?
Click to expand...
Yes I believe that is correct. It should be were the discharge hose connects to the head.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Taking a time out from the fixit trenches to say....I don't remember how I stumbled into this place called Club Sea Ray, but I sure am glad I did! From parts sources to know how to shooting the breeze, it's been a great place to learn and "socialize," and even give a helpful two cents every once in a while.

THANK YOU to everyone here, but most especially to all of you classics owners in this thread--you've saved me money and headaches, and definitely are helping us stay on the happy side of boating!
 
Something about a girl...that works on her own boat

Oh a hint, never put new props on unless your ready for the season to end... Low tides and now rain have kept me off the water all week.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,186
Messages
1,428,173
Members
61,097
Latest member
Mdeluca407
Back
Top