MarineClean/Leverage
New Member
How I use Leverage Polish & Oxidation Remover
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Buffing 101
How I use Leverage;
If the boat already has a shine with No oxidation or staining then you need the Polish only. I apply the polish by hand with 2 terry cloth towels. I spray 1 towel 5-6 times and wipe on(no hard scrubbing needed). I wipe down the entire boat with a light coat then I come back and wipe the light residue off with the 2 dry towel(polish entire boat then wipe off). I also polish all of the interior fiberglass, dash, metal and gauges as well. The boat dosen't have to be spotless before you apply the polish, but it needs to be dry. The polish has a very mild cleaning agent that will remove things like spider crap, dust and pollen.
If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90820
Before I buff I always wash the boat down then towel dry or wipe it down with a damp towel if it's not to dirty. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading.
If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water and towel dry or use a damp towel to wipe it down then allow to dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. You can apply My Polish the same day as buffing, but be sure the surface is completely dry first. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.
All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.
I only use Terry Cloth towels. I've found they can be used for many years to come and will not cause swirling like some microfiber towels.
I can do a 36' Boat twice with 1 bottle of Leverage Polish. I can buff an entire 36' Boat with 1 bottle of Oxidation Remover unless it's extremely chalky.
Please let me know if I missed anything or if anyone has a question.
Leverage Products are available at BOE Marine
Donnie
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Buffing 101
How I use Leverage;
If the boat already has a shine with No oxidation or staining then you need the Polish only. I apply the polish by hand with 2 terry cloth towels. I spray 1 towel 5-6 times and wipe on(no hard scrubbing needed). I wipe down the entire boat with a light coat then I come back and wipe the light residue off with the 2 dry towel(polish entire boat then wipe off). I also polish all of the interior fiberglass, dash, metal and gauges as well. The boat dosen't have to be spotless before you apply the polish, but it needs to be dry. The polish has a very mild cleaning agent that will remove things like spider crap, dust and pollen.
If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90820
Before I buff I always wash the boat down then towel dry or wipe it down with a damp towel if it's not to dirty. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading.
If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water and towel dry or use a damp towel to wipe it down then allow to dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. You can apply My Polish the same day as buffing, but be sure the surface is completely dry first. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.
All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.
I only use Terry Cloth towels. I've found they can be used for many years to come and will not cause swirling like some microfiber towels.
I can do a 36' Boat twice with 1 bottle of Leverage Polish. I can buff an entire 36' Boat with 1 bottle of Oxidation Remover unless it's extremely chalky.
Please let me know if I missed anything or if anyone has a question.
Leverage Products are available at BOE Marine
Donnie
