How I use Leverage Polish & Oxidation Remover

OK, I will bite. I am not too impressed by the polish. I just did my boat last weekend and went back to 3M Liquid and am very pleased with the results. I only tried the polish on my transom, but within two days it looked dull and as if nothing had been applied, anyway, I probably will not purchase again. Just my .02 from California.
 
I have a 250 DA to redo. It is def oxidized, but still shines at the right angle. I want her to gleam. What Leverage product would you suggest and in what order. Thanks in advance, I am on BOE Marine's website now and just want to get the right stuff.
 
I will take a picture of my boat next time its sunny out. I had better luck using a different oxidation remover and perfected the gelcoat before using the Leverage Polish and I am VERY impressed with how the polish has lasted to this point.

Nothing I have used before has been so easy to use and easier to get black streaks off the gelcoat. I wash my non skid areas with a very mild boat soap and all of the Leverage polished areas I just use water and a very soft brush.
 
I reapplied the Leverage polish last weekend in 2 hours time, granted I only have a 240. It is very easy to use and looks great, it has more than surpassed my expectations of any other polish I have used.
 
Glad I found this thread. Anyone feel free to jump in. I've had my 310 Sundancer since new (10 1/2 yrs) and it has always been in a covered slip. I have been struggling a little the past 3 or 4 years with getting that new mirror finish back and am ready to try anything. I did the PolyGlow thing a couple of years ago and regret it. Fortunately I only applied it above the rub rail with none on the hull. I want to make sure I'm clear on this....that using acetone to remove the PG won't do any damage to the gelcoat? Then go with the Leverage OR using a wool pad (I typically use 3M); then the Leverage Polish applied by hand.

I'll have my boat pulled in September to get a fresh bottom job and some additional maintenance so that's when I'll likely tackle the clean and polish.

For you other fresh water guys who keep your boat wet-slipped year around, I learned something about hulls a few years back. Six years ago I had my boat pulled to get fresh bottom paint. The guy doing the work had many years experience building and maintaining boats and told me his secret was to never wax the hull. He showed me how to properly use 3m Finesse It II with a rotary buffer and wool pad. I've only used soap and water on the hull since then and it still has a shine. I will likely buff the hull again in September but have been very pleased to not have to wax it. Is this unusual?

Thanks
 
Acetone will not damage gelcoat. Stickers, it will - depending on how long it is in contact with them.

The hull sides don't get hit by the direct rays of the sun. I've never heard of anyone specifically saying don't wax the hull. Hull bottom, yes. Hull sides, no.
 
Thanks for the reply and the caution regarding the vinyl. Since I did use some PolyGlow in an area that contacted some vinyl striping, maybe the best choice is to go with the cleaner that came with the PG kit. If that doesn't get it all then maybe a floor wax remover. I think I read that somewhere. As for no wax on the hull, I am surprised it has looked good for 6 years but logic does suggest what you said....that it has primarily been in the shade and on a vertical surface where the water runs off without leaving much of any kind of a buildup. The real benefit is that you will never get any streaking like you would on a waxed surface if something ran down (like a non-skid deck cleaner) and wasn't immediately rinsed off. That's the main thing I noticed when I had it out 6 years ago and was able to take a good look while buffing it.
 
You can use acetone on vinyl surfaces - just do it carefully and, most importantly, quickly. If you've never experimented with acetone and vinyl before, best not to do it the first time on your boat. A much safer alternative is Naptha.

Sorry for the hi-jack - let's get back to Leverage results. I've used it, but am not able to get the black streaks off very easily, at all. Even if I try to get them off the next day, they will only come off about 80% - ??? why ??? I really want to continue using the product, but am unsure why I'm having this problem.
 
SR400DB said:
OK, I will bite. I am not too impressed by the polish. I just did my boat last weekend and went back to 3M Liquid and am very pleased with the results. I only tried the polish on my transom, but within two days it looked dull and as if nothing had been applied, anyway, I probably will not purchase again. Just my .02 from California.
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Sorry for the delayed response guys. It's summertime, so I've been covered and on the road.

Sorry about your results, but please check post #57 in this thread. Your fiberglass should have a lasting mirror reflection with no dull spots.
 
dev6315 said:
I have a 250 DA to redo. It is def oxidized, but still shines at the right angle. I want her to gleam. What Leverage product would you suggest and in what order. Thanks in advance, I am on BOE Marine's website now and just want to get the right stuff.
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If it still has a shine then I recommend buffing with the OR then following up with the Polish. Some spots may or may not need more attention like wetsanding, but it all depends on the condition. Always buff first then wetsanding as a last option.

The HB buffer is the tool to use unless you have a rotary already.
 
Lazy Daze said:
You can use acetone on vinyl surfaces - just do it carefully and, most importantly, quickly. If you've never experimented with acetone and vinyl before, best not to do it the first time on your boat. A much safer alternative is Naptha.

Sorry for the hi-jack - let's get back to Leverage results. I've used it, but am not able to get the black streaks off very easily, at all. Even if I try to get them off the next day, they will only come off about 80% - ??? why ??? I really want to continue using the product, but am unsure why I'm having this problem.
Click to expand...

Good conversation Dennis! Let me know if you need anything else.
 
daven5735 said:
Glad I found this thread. Anyone feel free to jump in. I've had my 310 Sundancer since new (10 1/2 yrs) and it has always been in a covered slip. I have been struggling a little the past 3 or 4 years with getting that new mirror finish back and am ready to try anything. I did the PolyGlow thing a couple of years ago and regret it. Fortunately I only applied it above the rub rail with none on the hull. I want to make sure I'm clear on this....that using acetone to remove the PG won't do any damage to the gelcoat? Then go with the Leverage OR using a wool pad (I typically use 3M); then the Leverage Polish applied by hand.

I'll have my boat pulled in September to get a fresh bottom job and some additional maintenance so that's when I'll likely tackle the clean and polish.

For you other fresh water guys who keep your boat wet-slipped year around, I learned something about hulls a few years back. Six years ago I had my boat pulled to get fresh bottom paint. The guy doing the work had many years experience building and maintaining boats and told me his secret was to never wax the hull. He showed me how to properly use 3m Finesse It II with a rotary buffer and wool pad. I've only used soap and water on the hull since then and it still has a shine. I will likely buff the hull again in September but have been very pleased to not have to wax it. Is this unusual?

Thanks
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Hey Dave,

Sounds like everyone has you ponited in the right direction. If the Hull still shines then just put a coat of polish on her. All the SR's I maintain that are in a covered slip get 1 light coat of Polish per year.
 
OK, 1 more post then I think I'm caught up. :grin:

I want everyone to remember that my Polish isn't a total miracle that will solve all of your problems if you have any. If your boat is stored outside and is more than one year old then buffing first might be likely. I've also seen brand new SR's that have to be buffed straight from the dealer because of how they're stored and what products were used on them. You can tell by the Shine......it should be a Mirror!!

If your surface is excellent or your boat is new with a mirror shine then the Polish only. Anything less than a mirror needs to be buffed first to remove the oxidation, fading, dull or yellowing finish. If it's dull and you use a 'Cover Up' wax you're denying the inevitable. The wax isn't removing the oxidation it's making it worse and You still need to Buff!!

My results and my studies have been proven to myself and my Marine Clean customers for over 6 years now. I maintain 75% of all the new Cobalts delivered to my lake from our two local dealers. Every Cobalt that I've polished when delivered to the customer and maintained with water/towel only still looks absolutely brand new. The other 25% that I don't maintain, but the customer has contacted me a few years later have to buffed first because of the fading/oxidized hulls. Some are stored outside with a mooring cover and some are stored in a covered slip with partial sun.
 
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OK Donnie, here's the deal. You're only a few (5 or 6) hours from Dallas. Why don't you come down at the end of summer, pretty-up my boat and I'll treat you to a couple of nights in a hotel and pay you for the work. We can even time it so the boat is out of the water when I have it pulled for the bottom job. Come on, whatta ya say?
 
This is a great thread and has answered some questions I had. Here is the deal, I have a 97 330 Sundancer. It has sat for 2 years and now it has major caulking and stains and some scratches. I am pretty sure that wet sanding will be the only thing that will bring it back to life. What is the best way to wet sand and what is the process afterwoods? Do I need to buff after wet sanding? Can I wet sand the non skid? Any help would be appreciated.
 
lovestocruise said:
This is a great thread and has answered some questions I had. Here is the deal, I have a 97 330 Sundancer. It has sat for 2 years and now it has major caulking and stains and some scratches. I am pretty sure that wet sanding will be the only thing that will bring it back to life. What is the best way to wet sand and what is the process afterwoods? Do I need to buff after wet sanding? Can I wet sand the non skid? Any help would be appreciated.
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Try buffing first. You may be very pleasantly surprised.
 
Try buffing first. You may be very pleasantly surprised.
Click to expand...

X2, don't sand until you try a good buffing first. You can always sand if that doesn't do it. Try your worst area first and see how it comes out.
 
Hey Donnie, Do you ever get up to Fayetteville to watch the Hogs play? Maybe you could come by and advise me on a couple of project boats I have going.

Jim
 
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