Calling all 360 DA owners

[Endsmtg]

Update on the canvas work: She said she will start Monday and should get it done by Friday as long as the weather cooperates. If it's not done, she will make sure that the boat is usable for next weekend, we hope to get away for a few days.
$5900.00.... complete with windlass and dash covers (we're changing to black, admiral's orders). That's a little pricey for this area, but her work stands out among the rest.
I'm a little nervous, hope the camper addition turns out well.
I'll put up some pics.

Please post pics as I have the cantilever canvas(never used), but no hardware to install. Very interested in how and where to mount hardware. Dealer that I purchased from has the hardware but is a four hour cruise away and states piece CANNOT be shipped due to width(13 feet)?:huh: Any suggestions?

 

[Endsmtg]

When I bought this boat last year, the windshield washer feature was new to me. I could hear the sound of the pump running behind the cabinet at the wet bar, so I kind of knew where it was. When I searched on this board, several posts confirmed the location, but those were folks that owned different models. Wanting to know as much as I can about my boat, I wrote searay and asked about the access to the pump and they responded with this. They also included the access to the wiper motors.
FYI
Take care
Mark

So does this use fresh water or is there a washer fluid reservoir somewhere?

 

[my3sons]

So does this use fresh water or is there a washer fluid reservoir somewhere?

Water is from your fresh water tank. If you do your own winterizing, don't forget to run the A/F through them.

As far as the canvas framing, I'll post up some pics in a few days. But keep in mind camper backs are all custom work, so the canvas you have has been sewn to fit the frames that the dealer has, and has to be mounted just right so that everything is a correct fit.
I think your best bet is to cruise to the dealer and have someone meet you there to drive you back while they install it, if that's possible.

 

[Endsmtg]

It's actually more cost efficient to have another bracket manufactured. Half tank there, half tank back? I appreciate your reply though. I've done some upgrades myself.

1. Replaced galley TV with flat screen on swivel.
2. Installed flat screen on radar arch over sink.
3. Removed freezer and replaced with liqour cabinet.
4. Installed amibient lighting in cabin curtain rails.
5. Upgraded sound system to Clarion CMD6 w/ ipod.
6. Upgraded/replaced speakers w/JL Audio speakers in arch.
7. Upgraded/replaced subwoofer w/JL Audio sub, added sub.
8. Changed arch and floor lights to TRI-LED's w/3 colors.
9. Upgraded VHF radio to Raymarine 218 w/hailer horn.
10. Installed air horn on radar arch.
11. Swithced navigation lights to LEDs.
12. Upgraded charger/inverter to 60amp
13. Installed third battery bank.
14. Modified holding tank filter to change annually.

If anyone is thinking of these changes, please let me know if I can help! I can send pics and give advice on shortcuts to save time and frustration.:thumbsup:

 

[5oclocksw]

My3sons thanks for the 411 on the canvas and camper, that sounds like what I want to do. Your 5900.00 estimate, does that include all canvas and pipe work? "we're changing to black, admiral's orders"

Can't wait to see the pics

 

[La Maddalena]

Endsmtg:

I would appreciate info / pics on the following upgrades:

1. Replaced galley TV with flat screen on swivel.
5. Upgraded sound system to Clarion CMD6 w/ ipod.
8. Changed arch and floor lights to TRI-LED's w/3 colors.
11. Switched navigation lights to LEDs.

Thanks !

 

[Endsmtg]

Endsmtg:

I would appreciate info / pics on the following upgrades:

1. Replaced galley TV with flat screen on swivel.
5. Upgraded sound system to Clarion CMD6 w/ ipod.
8. Changed arch and floor lights to TRI-LED's w/3 colors.
11. Switched navigation lights to LEDs.

Thanks !

Hello,

Here's what I did for the items requested:

1. I removed the CRT TV and built a hatch door on hinges, secured at the top of the cabinet, for a 19" flat screen. The door opens exactly like the hatches above the cooktop. I secured the TV to the hatch door with a standard TV mount purchased from BestBuy. I cut the hatch door so that it fit snugly into the space provided and left a 1" opening on the bottom to allow for cables and a location to pull open. The TV overlaps the hatch door and provides a nice finished "floating" appearance. **Be careful of what TV you are installing in this location. Tv's with DVD players on the right side will not work, as the clearance to the bulk head will not allow you to load DVD's! Also keep in mind where your cable and power connections will have to run. The cables on mine run from the bottom of the TV right through the 1" gap I left. Pics to follow.....

 

[Endsmtg]

Continued....

5. Purchased CMD6 on ebay with new CW1 controller and new remote cable(Clarion MWRXCRET 25' CABLE, $30). I have seen this sold as a kit! I removed the old CMD2 and left the CD changer. I don't use CD's anymore, plus the CMD6 has a single CD player if need be. The CMD6 uses the SAME wiring harness as the OEM unit! So power and speakers were the same. The din space for the OEM unit was larger than the new CMD6, so I used the gasket/spacer from the old unit to cover any gaps. Works perfect and has a nice appearance. This also allowed me to run the USB cable, supplied w/ the CMD6, to controll/charge the Ipod from the rear of the radio, without cutting any new holes. I then removed the old remote and had to widen the hole at the helm approximately 1/2" radius. I used a dremel with a sanding bit. Worked perfectly on the fiberglass. Keep your hatch closed and helm covered to ease cleanup of dust. I then ran the new remote cable to the CMD6 through the conduit behind the cabin fuse panel. I can now control the Ipod and see what song is playing all from the helm! The CMD6 also has 2 AUX inputs so I ran RCA from my outside TV to AUX1, through radar arch, and the inside TV to AUX2 for Surround sound!!!!!!
Pics to follow.....

 

[Endsmtg]

Continued..

8. Purchased Tri LED from BOE Marine(APL-247L-SDI-11)APERION SDI TRI-COLOR LIGHTS. These lights are a direct replacement for our existing fixtures. I purchased 2 FLUSH mount w/white bezel for the arch, and 3 SCREW mount units w/chrome bezel for the floor. Simply removed the OEM units, cut the wires and crimped new unit wires and shrink wrapped for add protection. The arch units required some widening, again with the dremel and sand bit! Make sure to cover to ease cleanup. Units work with existing switches. You simply turn on, then off and back on to switch colors from red, to white to blue! Bathes the cockpit in color! One of the best mods I've done! Get nothing but compliments and requests for these fixtures! Pics to follow.....

 

[Endsmtg]

Lastly...

11. I purchased Perko LED NAVIGATION LIGHTS(SKU# 002099091 Lite-Nav Rd/Gr LED Side) from West Marine. These are direct replacements for the nav lights on the bow. Simply removed OEM units cut wires and crimped/shrink wrapped new ones in! Make sure you order the proper voltage, as a friend got the 24 volt by mistake! I then changed my stern light by ordering a LED FESTOON bulb from WWW.SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM (High Power 6-LED Festoon bulb $ 14.95 Cool White - 7000K 42mm 4210-xHP6) and then replaced the anchor and mast light with (High Power 2-LED Festoon bulb $ 6.95 Cool White 3022-CWHP2 ) These bulbs simply replace the existing festoon bulbs and have 10X the life and brightness with only 1/10th the battery draw!

Pics to follow.....:thumbsup:

 

[La Maddalena]

This is all great information - thanks. Looking forward to the pics.

 

[my3sons]

Please post pics as I have the cantilever canvas(never used), but no hardware to install. Very interested in how and where to mount hardware. Dealer that I purchased from has the hardware but is a four hour cruise away and states piece CANNOT be shipped due to width(13 feet)?:huh: Any suggestions?

Here is the aft shade support work, It mounts to the same fittings on the arch as the original. We increased the angle of the short support from the arch from almost staight up and down to slanting rearward as you can see. We wanted to increase that even more and then not use the rear supports, but they would have interfered with hopping in and out over the side and we had some concerns about too much load on the cantilever. The rear most verticals are quick pin removable. So really now it's not a cantilever. We made that decision while they were installing it. It will be all one piece of fabric from the arch back. We no longer have much interest in sitting in the sun so I didn't want the type of camper that can be unzipped from the original aft shade and rolled up. It will have some slant to the rear curtain, and not be completely vertical, the "new" top extends 34" further back than the original, just enough to sit comfortably in the aft seat and have about 4-6" behind my head to the aft curtain. We added some vertical crown to the rear, as well as horizontal curve. The original was almost flat, which may not have blended with the lines of the boat, being that it is now further back.
This metal work was done yesterday, today they spent the entire day at the shop sewing. Tomorrow they should have the tops on.

 

[my3sons]

My3sons thanks for the 411 on the canvas and camper, that sounds like what I want to do. Your 5900.00 estimate, does that include all canvas and pipe work? "we're changing to black, admiral's orders"

Can't wait to see the pics

Yes, that includes all the new stainless work aft of the arch, except for the two adjustable support arms, which they repositioned to slant rearward, and attached them to the new main frame.
The framing forward of the arch will be the original.

 

[Endsmtg]

Flat screen bracket sscrewed through back of hatch door.

 

[Endsmtg]

Hatch door hinges installed at top of hatch opening to door.

 

[Endsmtg]

Bottom of hatch door with 1" opening for access.

 

[Endsmtg]

Side view of finished product. Notice no wires and flush with hatch.

 

[Endsmtg]

Finished product. Notice no wires and no 1" gap at bottom.

 

[Endsmtg]

Here is the radio install....

Clarion CMD6

CMD6 w/Ipod

Right side. Gasket retained from previous unit to cover larger DIN. Also allows access for USB cord for Ipod without new holes.

Left side.

CMD6 CD player. Notice mounting screws are located here!

New remote w/digital display allows for control of CMD6 from helm.

Replaced all Clarion speakers w/JL Audio and added 10" woofer.

Flat screen also connected to CMD6 via AUX1 input w/RCA cables for TRUE Surround Sound!

 

[Two Peas]

Hatch door hinges installed at top of hatch opening to door.

Is that rope lighting up top? Was that original or aftermarket? How does it look at night? Where is the switch? Cool...