Buff Magic

I would think the only thing heat would do is dry out the product you're using. I know I go to great lengths especially in the heat of the summer to keep the product moist while applying. I keep a spray bottle of plain water & mist the pad quite often....seems to give me just a little more application time. I have one of those wheels that clean the caked wool pads...it does a pretty good job. As for pressure I leave it to the weight of the machine. I might have to try some Buff Magic to see what it will do.

Buff Magic is different than most buffing compounds. It will not dry out in the heat, you can leave it in the sun, walk away for a reasonable amount of time and come back to still damp product.

Its made to use the heat, the aggressiveness of the rotary, and the wool pad to achieve the optimum results. The old owner of Yacht Brite who shares an office with me says the best results will be at about 1800 rpm on a rotary.

I use a paint brush that I cut about half way down to apply the product, you don't need much. Go to work with my dewalt rotary on 1800 and buff until there is NO product left. You will see the shine come out as you buff it. I have gotten to the point with using it that I get the finish swirl free with just the buff magic and use leverage right over the top of it.
 
Bought the whole kabang, or rather it was a Christmas present. So far I think I would of spent a little less on the rotary and bought one at a local shop. This being my first time compounding and polishing a yacht, I must say I like the results. I can't imagine doing this all by hand, it took me close to six hours to due 20-30sq feet on the bridge.
 
What do you guys think about this wool buffing pad and bonnit? I picked up a dewalt 849 over the winter and plan on detailing the boat this year. My gel is in pretty good shape so I planned to use this bonnet with Collinite cleaner wax and then remove the residule by hand with a micro fiber cloth. After that my plan was to hand apply and remove Collinite fleet paste wax.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-WO...p3286Q2em7QQcategoryZ50450QQitemZ230434586796

Does anyone see anything wrong with my plan or the velcro bonnet and pad?
 
What do you guys think about this wool buffing pad and bonnit? I picked up a dewalt 849 over the winter and plan on detailing the boat this year. My gel is in pretty good shape so I planned to use this bonnet with Collinite cleaner wax and then remove the residule by hand with a micro fiber cloth. After that my plan was to hand apply and remove Collinite fleet paste wax.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-WO...p3286Q2em7QQcategoryZ50450QQitemZ230434586796

Does anyone see anything wrong with my plan or the velcro bonnet and pad?

That is very close to what I use. It will work fine, just make sure you have the pad centered on the velcro pad.
 
Well, I kept thinking..... Buff Magic....Buff Magic. Went downstairs, looked around and low & behold there set a brand new can of Buff Magic on the shelf. Lol......I'd forgotten I purchased it last year when the Shurhold guy was giving away a free can of Serious Shine with each purchase of Buff Magic :lol: Guess I have no excuse not to give it a try. I hope you guys are right about it not drying out......that could be a big plus.
 
The rotary with a wool pad will generate heat that an orbital or even the dual action polishers and your hand cannot. I believe this is the action that maximizes the effect of buff magic. There's a reason why the professionals only use rotaries.

I clean my wool pad with a scrapper tool after every couple sections to keep it from building up. I use it sparingly otherwise it will sling it everywhere. Start out slow with even (center of the pad) light to moderate pressure. Then I speed up for my last passes with just light pressure until the product is nearly gone. Makes for easy wipe off.

Thanks, this is what I was starting to conclude. However, in the videos here about Buff Magic that show pros using rotary buffers, the pads are 10"-12". A 10" pad compared to my 6" pad will have 66% more speed at the edge. That means to get the same speed as running a 10" rotary at 3000 rpm I have to run my 6" at 5000 rpm. Using the middle of either pad results in the same speed but using the outer edges makes a difference. So I am curious how much of the advantage you cite for a rotary is due to the larger diameter pad versus the motion?
 
320bob,
If I understand you correctly you do better with the hand job? :grin:

There are several articles on the shurhold site. They clearly state that less is more with the buff magic and that you should apply sparingly to the surface not the pad.

I found this one helpful

Dual Action Polisher Pads: Maintenance and Product Application

At Shurhold, we get a lot of questions about the pads associated with the Dual Action Polisher: the Pro Polish foam pad and the Buff Magic Compounding pad. In this article, you’ll find tips for how much product to use on each pad, how much surface each pad can effectively cover, and how to properly clean and store the pads for ultimate effectiveness.
How much Pro Polish or Buff Magic should be used on a clean pad?
Let’s start by clarifying that Pro Polish should be used with the black foam pad and Buff Magic should be used with the wool compounding pad. For a detailed explanation why, read this article (link to other article). When using the foam pad, only one tablespoon of Pro Polish should be used to start. Apply the polish directly to the pad and go to work. The amount of polish needed to replenish the pad varies depending on the original state of the surface, but you will be able to tell when more polish is needed because the state of the surface will not change without enough polish. When using Buff Magic, apply it directly to the surface in small areas at a time, smear it with a paintbrush or another spreading tool to get a thin layer and buff it away with the compounding pad. Remember, though, Shurhold compounds don’t contain any fillers; a little bit goes a long way, so don’t overload the pads.
How long with the pads last?
The lifespan of the pads depends on the user, how well they are cleaned and the condition of the surfaces being detailed. If buffing or waxing a 20-foot boat, two pads should be enough to cover the surface at one time. Keep in mind, though, that the number of pads needed depends on how experienced the user is. If the user is a beginner who doesn’t fully understand how effective these pads are, they might over load the pad with product, thus decreasing its effectiveness and increasing the number of pads needed. Shurhold chemicals are designed such that a little bit goes a long way, so save your pads and your wallet and don’t go overboard on how much you use! As a general rule (remember these are only estimates!), if the pads are cleaned properly after each use, they can be used:
• four times on a 20’ boat
• five times on a car
• twice on a 40’ RV
How should the pads be washed for optimum use?
The best way to clean the pads is to take a bucket of lukewarm water and add a cleaning agent; we recommend Brite Wash or Serious Marine Cleaner. Put the dirty pads into the soapy water and agitate them by hand for 2-3 minutes, squeezing and flushing water through them to remove the saturated compounds. Remove the pads from the bucket and rinse them in a sink or using a hose. Wring them out and allow them to completely air dry before placing them in clean plastic bags to keep out dust and other debris.
 
320bob,
If I understand you correctly you do better with the hand job? :grin:
...

You really didn't post this did you!:smt009 Anyway thanks for the article which answers my pad questions. As with their polish less is more with BM!:thumbsup:
 
The size of the pad doesn't matter on a rotary, and you won't be putting a 6" pad on it. If you're skeptical try one. There is a lot more torque behind the rotary. A dual action buffer is made to be less aggressive and they are. I have a porter cable dual action that I only use on my cars with different grades of foam pads. I have tried it on the boat with a wool pad and it virtually did nothing and better results were achieved by hand.

Its my opinion as an avid and professional detailer that anything less than a rotary buffer with buff magic is wasting your time and money. Up until this season I owned a professional detailing company that did 80+ boats per spring, take a stab at the process we used lol.

Cited from the old owner of Yacht Brite, no need to use a rotary over 2200 ever, and best results at 1800.

Also just an fyi, if you are able to find it they sell opti gloss buff magic, which is the original formula that Buff Magic started out as, and their serious shine and pro polish is a lot different in a very good way!
 
Hi All!

Barry here from Shurhold. Thank you to everyone for the great comments on our Buff Magic and our Dual Action Polisher.

Just wanted to put in a couple of helpful tips and comments on this topic.

1. The Dual Action Polisher speed is rated in OPM (Oscillations Per Minute) not RPM like a rotary. So there is no direct comparison between the two. With that said a Rotary by nature is much more aggressive and also much more dangerous to your finish if you are not skilled with one. A skilled detailer will always prefer a rotary since it is more efficient in getting the job done. They also have the skills to prevent burns and swirls. The average boater that is going to detail their boat on their own that does not use a rotary on a regular basis is much better off with a Dual Action Polisher. Here is why:

For Compounding (Buff Magic): It will be much more efficient than doing it by hand and is quite capable machine for light to medium oxidation. A complete novice can do a professional job in these situations. Sometimes with a bit more oxidation a couple more applications might be necessary, but you will get the job done swirl free! (Side Note: You can use Buff Magic and the Polisher to restore fogged headlights on your car!)

For Waxing (Pro Polish): Here there is no difference in efficiency compared to a rotary. The Dual Action Polisher with wax just a quickly and again no fear of burns or swirls. Just a professional shine every time.


2. I say a couple of posts about heat being needed to make Buff Magic work. This is not correct. In-fact to much heat can hurt your finish. Rotary burn. The Buff Magic has a proprietary aggregate that works as microfine sand paper suspended in the cream. As you work the product this material fractures and becomes finer and still sharp. Just as if you were switching to finer and finer grit sand paper. This process continues again and again. That is the MAGIC part. Heat has nothing to do with the process. Speed and impact do. This is why if you run your polisher to fast with this product it does not seem to work as well. This is because you are accelerating the breaking down of the aggregate.

Now with Pro Polish heat is another story. A small amount of heat, the amount created from the simple friction of the pad against the surface helps the product bond with the surface of the boat. The heat generated from waxing by hand or with a Dual Action Polisher is plenty. Again, to much heat from a rotary not used properly can actually burn the surface of your boat.

Hope this helps!

As always you can reach us and ask question at : http://shurhold.com/contact/

Barry Berhoff - President
Shurhold Industries, Inc.

Helping Keep Your Boat Clean N Simple!
 
Barry,
Can you make your tip sheet and related articles a bit easier to print out? I had to cut and paste them into word so I could get and easy to print and read format? Also, those sheets seem to be scattered across the site. I might find one under the related articles tab for pro polish and one from buff magic.

Thanks
 
Barry,

Since we are all coming into our spring cleaning time with our boats, will you offer a discount to CSR memebers if we purchase the Buff Magic and the Pro Polish? I ordered the buffer about a year ago and really like. Every dime we can save these days will help.

Thanks,

Perry
 
Barry,

Since we are all coming into our spring cleaning time with our boats, will you offer a discount to CSR memebers if we purchase the Buff Magic and the Pro Polish? I ordered the buffer about a year ago and really like. Every dime we can save these days will help.

Thanks,

Perry


Agree.

What about a deal for the rotary buffer stand alone and the buffer with pro polish and buff magic. I recall an intro offer where the buff magic and pro polish were included with the rotary buffer.
 
Barry,
Thanks so much for joining in the discussion. I belong more in your camp than the professional advice, while I am sure true, Carver370 has offered. My questions are more focused on what speed should I be using your DA polisher at when compounding with Buff Magic and how thick it should be applied before applying the buffer? The foam pad has made polishing far easier for me but I am still trying to find my way around compounding with your product. My boat is very lightly oxidized and I am using Buff Magic to make the gelcoat smoother before applying polish.
 
Barry,

Since we are all coming into our spring cleaning time with our boats, will you offer a discount to CSR memebers if we purchase the Buff Magic and the Pro Polish? I ordered the buffer about a year ago and really like. Every dime we can save these days will help.

Thanks,

Perry


With the kind words of the product displayed here and the fact the President of the company chimed in, I want to give Buff Magic a go on my boat this spring. A discount to CSR members would sure help!
 
Thanks for the clarification on the heat issue! I'm wondering if I run my rotary to fast? I feel comfortable using it and won't burn my gelcoat but I noticed some swirls last time I did it. What would account for that? Too fast, improper pad, angle of tool etc?
 
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With the kind words of the product displayed here and the fact the President of the company chimed in, I want to give Buff Magic a go on my boat this spring. A discount to CSR members would sure help!

Ready to place a sizeable order...Just waiting to see what the CSR discount will be.
 
I'm gonna need a can of it also.
 

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