Buff Magic

jmunro123 said:
I am doing basically the same thing. I called Shurhold and was told that Serious Shine and Serious Marine Cleaner will both strip the Polish. Just a heads up, I was planning to use SS for the black streaks because is does a great job of removing them. I also ordered the Polisher, more BM, Pro Polish and Yacht Brite yesterday.
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Let me know how you like the Polisher. I bought it about a year ago and can't say enough good things about the quality and performance. Best $150 I spent. :thumbsup:
 
Just got back from WM with a 22oz can of Buff Magic and earlier this morning place and order for the Shurhold Buffer that had a discounted price on the Sea Ray e-magazine. My Starbrite medium compound did not do a good enough job on my transome so I am hoping that the BM will get the shine back and then reapply the Starbrite polish. I also some scratches where I made a gelcoat repair that I hope BM will take out.
 
Buff Magic will take care of it. I have used it for years with excellent results. However I will not use that polish or their psuedo buffer. A rotary buffer and 3M marine wax has always kept the finish of fiberglass boats shiney and oxidation free for me. that is what a professional boat dealer told me years ago, and I have no reason to doubt what he says.
 
KayKook said:
Buff Magic will take care of it. I have used it for years with excellent results. However I will not use that polish or their psuedo buffer. A rotary buffer and 3M marine wax has always kept the finish of fiberglass boats shiney and oxidation free for me. that is what a professional boat dealer told me years ago, and I have no reason to doubt what he says.
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Since I am not a professional, but rather a pseudo boat maintenance guy, I'll stick with the pseudo buffer!:smt043
 
You will never achieve the results you want with Buff Magic either by hand or with their buffer even. It was formulated to be used only with a Rotary polisher between 1200 and 1800 rpms.

I did a test for a nay sayer last summer and the section I did with the rotary blew away their shurhold buffed spot.



I work with the former owner of Yacht Brite...
 
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Carver370 said:
You will never achieve the results you want with Buff Magic either by hand or with their buffer even. It was formulated to be used only with a Rotary polisher...I did a test for a nay sayer last summer and the section I did with the rotary blew away their shurhold buffed spot...I work with the former owner of Yacht Brite.
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I am sure you are right but my goal here is not to have the shiniest boat in the marina just one that is reasonably well protected. Now if you want to elevate my goal, you can bring your rotary polisher over to Harborside Marina heated storage and give me a demonstration...and then there's my canvas...and my vinyl...and my carpet!:grin::smt043
 
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I'm sold after reading through the posts. Going to give it a try.
 
wish2fish said:
turtle,

did you get the materials and try it on your boat?
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Yes, I did half the boat with buff magic and the other half with meguires. I'll see what It looks like in the spring.
 
I used Buff Magic yesterday on my arch and found hand application and buffing yielded a better shine than using my orbital polisher with a wool pad. What do I need to do differently with the polisher to get similar results?
 
You need a true rotary polisher with the recommended foam pad . . . not an orbital which in my opinion is only a glorified and somewhat easier way of getting hand application results.

EDIT - CORRECTION noted below.
 
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Buff Magic is made to be used with a rotary polisher and a white wool pad. Other things may work but to get the best shine thats what you will need to use. I find that the foam pads actually dull the finish if its anything less than perfect to begin with.
 
That's right, I use a wool pad for Buff Magic. I use the foam pad for the second application of the "wax".
 
I used the polisher just like the video at a 2-3 setting with the medium oxidation wool pad. I still remain a bit of a skeptic about whether the problem is not using a true rotary since my hand motion that provides the best results is more like a random orbital motion than a purly circular motion of a rotary. Plus the areas that I am compounding all have swirls left I am sure by Skipper Bud's using a rotary buffer when the previous owner had the boat done by them.

I am using the the same wool pad that I did on the transom and swim platform which are not that large an area. How frequently does one have to change/clean the wool pad? Also, do you need to apply more vertical pressure with the polisher/buffer to get the best results or simply use the weight of the tool? Do you apply the Buff Magic heavily before using the buffer? This seems more like the situation doing by hand since you have more BM over a smaller area. In the Boat Test video, they started off at a lower speed and then finished at the highest setting. Could this be the issue?
 
The rotary with a wool pad will generate heat that an orbital or even the dual action polishers and your hand cannot. I believe this is the action that maximizes the effect of buff magic. There's a reason why the professionals only use rotaries.

I clean my wool pad with a scrapper tool after every couple sections to keep it from building up. I use it sparingly otherwise it will sling it everywhere. Start out slow with even (center of the pad) light to moderate pressure. Then I speed up for my last passes with just light pressure until the product is nearly gone. Makes for easy wipe off.
 
Cincy Aquaholic said:
The rotary with a wool pad will generate heat that an orbital or even the dual action polishers and your hand cannot. I believe this is the action that maximizes the effect of buff magic. There's a reason why the professionals only use rotaries.

I clean my wool pad with a scrapper tool after every couple sections to keep it from building up. I use it sparingly otherwise it will sling it everywhere. Start out slow with even (center of the pad) light to moderate pressure. Then I speed up for my last passes with just light pressure until the product is nearly gone. Makes for easy wipe off.
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Then what are you finishing with 'Pro Polish'?? The wax?
 
I've been using either pro polish or meguiers flagship for the most. I seem to get about the same results when I have it polished to a good shine.
 
Cincy Aquaholic said:
The rotary with a wool pad will generate heat that an orbital or even the dual action polishers and your hand cannot. I believe this is the action that maximizes the effect of buff magic. There's a reason why the professionals only use rotaries.

I clean my wool pad with a scrapper tool after every couple sections to keep it from building up. I use it sparingly otherwise it will sling it everywhere. Start out slow with even (center of the pad) light to moderate pressure. Then I speed up for my last passes with just light pressure until the product is nearly gone. Makes for easy wipe off.
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I would think the only thing heat would do is dry out the product you're using. I know I go to great lengths especially in the heat of the summer to keep the product moist while applying. I keep a spray bottle of plain water & mist the pad quite often....seems to give me just a little more application time. I have one of those wheels that clean the caked wool pads...it does a pretty good job. As for pressure I leave it to the weight of the machine. I might have to try some Buff Magic to see what it will do.
 
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