460 DA Owners Thread

My U-Line cockpit ice maker freezes solid on the bottom half of the bin of cubes after a few days. Any ideas on a simple solution?
 
It’s most likely just a gasket allowing the ice to melt then refreeze. Or the icemaker could be filling while you’re in rough water and running into the bin then freezing.
 
Jeff Pierce said:
My U-Line cockpit ice maker freezes solid on the bottom half of the bin of cubes after a few days. Any ideas on a simple solution?
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I added a small 4-5 inch fan in front of the grill to help with the air circulation... On hot days and heat rising from the engines, it's struggling to make ice.
 
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Thanks guys. It makes lots of ice. I the The Bill Collector might have an answer. What exactly did you add to the front of the grill?
 
Jeff Pierce said:
My U-Line cockpit ice maker freezes solid on the bottom half of the bin of cubes after a few days. Any ideas on a simple solution?
Click to expand...

Hi Jeff - mine does the same thing, and everyone I know that owns one does the same thing...They also seem to build up a freeze line behind the container on the floor as well...

I find if I lift the arm after 24 hours (when its full), it seems to reduce the problem. When we leave the boat, we empty the container, turn the unit off, and leave the door open with a towel in it to absord the ice/frost buildup...
 
NotHerDecision said:
It’s most likely just a gasket allowing the ice to melt then refreeze. Or the icemaker could be filling while you’re in rough water and running into the bin then freezing.
Click to expand...

Mine started doing the same thing a couple weeks ago...water in the tray and water on back wall building on the bottom where the tray sits. It was also making cubes that were about half the normal size.

We did a quick defrost on it and made sure all of the ice that would be in the actual "ice making tray" was melted as well. After turning it on, we watched what took place....when the water was called for to fill the tray, it was also leaking down the back wall and freezing immediately. So, we shut it off again and let it get up to room temperature.

It turns out what I thought was a black grommet on the back wall, is actually a pliable putty like material. Whether that is the right product for this, or what U-line used, I am unsure. So what I did was to press the putty and squeeze it towards the tube and try to create the seal again. It was quite pliable and easy to do. After that, no more leaks...at least not yet. :)
 
Blown284 said:
Hi Everyone! After many years of boat ownership, my wife and I recently sold our beloved Formula 41 PC because we wanted to take more extended cruises and the Twin 502's just weren't practical any longer.

So... that being said and why I'm here. We put an offer in that was accepted and now we'll be doing a sea trial /survey next week. Barring no issues, we'll have ourselves an '04 Dancer 460. Before the Formula, I owned a 330 Dancer.

That being said, I'm trying to learn more about this boat. I believe I saw, on the right hand side from the driver and switch panel, "Engine Sync" ... is that what it really is? Synchronizing the engines? If so, can someone explain, in troglodyte terms, what it is and how it works?

What is the typical running rpm for the Cummings 6CTA 8.3M diesels? 2200-2300 rpm?

Any gotcha's that I need to be aware of besides the normal type of stuff? For those of you with the same boat, are you happy with it? Anything I should be looking out for?

Thanks everyone!
Tim
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Welcome back to the world of SeaRay. I am into my 8th month of owning a 460DA and absolutely love the boat...it being my 3rd SeaRay.
My boat is also equipped with the Cummins 6CTA 8.3M diesels. I have found these engines to be incredibly economical to operate. I normally run my engines about 1800 RPM which gives me about 17 to 18 knots. When pushing up the throttles, I will operate about 2200 - 2250 RPM which really gets the boat up on the step. Solid ride.

My boat is a 2000 and it had 750 hrs TT when I purchased it. I have put another 150 hours on it since then. I have had my mechanic change out almost all the hoses, belts, change oil, and all the filters. We did this to have a "base line" for future scheduled maintenance. Other areas that initially gave me problems was the water heater Pressure/Temperature Relief Valve. We found that it had been replaced, probably more than once so we put a new one in and carry a spare. In researching water problems we found that the water pressure accumulator had a crack. The original was plastic so we changed it out with a new metal accumulator. I would also recommend changing the duck bills in both of the heads in order to have a "base line" as they should be changed every two years. I also replaced the seals and springs on both heads as that is most likely an annual event. I had both A/C fully charged so I know where I stand with those. My boat is kept in a slip which is in a cove. At low tide we have maybe 5 feet of water and the bottom is muddy and easily disturbed. I keep the forward air conditioner on while docked and the Saloon A/C in the dehumidifier mode. I find that I have to clean my raw water sea strainer basket every three weeks due to the accumulation of mud, sea grass, and marine growth.

Good luck with your boat. This is a great website as there is much information to be taken from here. Don't hesitate to ask questions. This is a great group of people more than willing to share their knowledge.
 
45Gunner said:
Welcome back to the world of SeaRay. I am into my 8th month of owning a 460DA and absolutely love the boat...it being my 3rd SeaRay.
My boat is also equipped with the Cummins 6CTA 8.3M diesels. I have found these engines to be incredibly economical to operate. I normally run my engines about 1800 RPM which gives me about 17 to 18 knots. When pushing up the throttles, I will operate about 2200 - 2250 RPM which really gets the boat up on the step. Solid ride.

My boat is a 2000 and it had 750 hrs TT when I purchased it. I have put another 150 hours on it since then. I have had my mechanic change out almost all the hoses, belts, change oil, and all the filters. We did this to have a "base line" for future scheduled maintenance. Other areas that initially gave me problems was the water heater Pressure/Temperature Relief Valve. We found that it had been replaced, probably more than once so we put a new one in and carry a spare. In researching water problems we found that the water pressure accumulator had a crack. The original was plastic so we changed it out with a new metal accumulator. I would also recommend changing the duck bills in both of the heads in order to have a "base line" as they should be changed every two years. I also replaced the seals and springs on both heads as that is most likely an annual event. I had both A/C fully charged so I know where I stand with those. My boat is kept in a slip which is in a cove. At low tide we have maybe 5 feet of water and the bottom is muddy and easily disturbed. I keep the forward air conditioner on while docked and the Saloon A/C in the dehumidifier mode. I find that I have to clean my raw water sea strainer basket every three weeks due to the accumulation of mud, sea grass, and marine growth.

Good luck with your boat. This is a great website as there is much information to be taken from here. Don't hesitate to ask questions. This is a great group of people more than willing to share their knowledge.
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Thank you! Looks like the deal will close and I'll take delivery either this weekend or early next week. We are definitely excited.

Question. Do you use the ice from your ice maker for drinks? I'm asking because I'd like to use the ice but also would like to put some type of water filter PRIOR to the water entering the ice maker. Do you have a filter? Have any idea what size filter would work?
 
I do not have an ice maker aboard. They seem to be a constant source of problems and do not have a long life cycle. Also know that a lot of people that do use them put some type of filter inline. We usually buy a 10 lb bag of ice when we forecast a use for ice. Some of it goes into the cooler and some of it goes into the freezer down below.
 
45Gunner said:
I do not have an ice maker aboard. They seem to be a constant source of problems and do not have a long life cycle. Also know that a lot of people that do use them put some type of filter inline. We usually buy a 10 lb bag of ice when we forecast a use for ice. Some of it goes into the cooler and some of it goes into the freezer down below.
Click to expand...

Ok, thank you. Yeah, I would rather have a fridge out there but the PO replaced the ice maker this year and I hate to just remove it. Maybe I'll just use the ice for a cooler. Thank you.
 
I tried searching for this through the 123+ pages but was not able to find it so I'll ask here. Sorry in advance if I'm duplicating.

- Does anyone have the part # for cutlass bearings?
- Does the anchor locker water feed come from one of the existing water pumps that also feeds the sinks, shower, etc?
- What size wiper blades does the 460 take?

(I"m sure I'll have a million other questions) so I'll apologize in advance.
 
Anyone else with a 460 change your a/c pump? If so, what did you change it to? (make/model/part #). Thanks!
 
Consider a sealed motor. More dollars but no issues with water getting to the windings.
 
TheWolfTC said:
yes sir.
Click to expand...

Roger that! Thank you.

I was at my new boat today, cleaned the a/c strainer and the salon a/c isn't cooling below like 86* and the forward salon is giving me a "PS HI" fault.

Here's my plan of attack:

* Plan to first run straight fresh water through the system and see what comes out
* If the fresh water doesn't help out, I plan to use barnacle buster or something to clean the lines.

Based on what the strainer looked like, I suspect the a/c water lines are gunked up.

Am I planning on doing this right? Have any other suggestions for me?

Thank you,
Tim
 
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