420 DA Thread

Are the steps one piece? Do you know how they are attached and how you remove them?
 
I thought I recently had to replace my AC unit also because it was not cooling properly. Went on the Cuisair web site and found a local heating and cooling company to come out and check it. Just need to be recharged and the thermostat needed to be reprogramed. All for about $125.00
He made sure the front AC was cooling properly also.
Feels like a meat locker now so before you tear your boat apart, have a professional take a look at it.
 
I had the local repair service recommended on the Cruisair website look at it and he said the compressor was locked up. It had been making a loud buzzing noise when you turned it on and it tried to cycle. They are working on it but I was wondering how they would get it out.
 
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Guys , no way the steps have to come out . I installed a 16,000 turbo for the salon. It either came out thru the triangle of tru the couch . The turbo is more compact.

Rob
 
Rob, you are correct. They removed the back of the left side of the couch and the old unit on Monday. They are going to put a turbo unit in.
 
paul1543 said:
I have a 2005 420 DA with a hydraulic swim platform. I had a leak of hydraulic fluid in the system, which I found (leaking pressure gauge). I now need to replenish the fluid in the reservoir, but not sure what fluid to use. Sea Star hydraulic steering fluid is what was recommended to me. Does this group agree with that? Thanks.
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We have a Sealift hydraulic swim platform (well, it's actually a Sea Ray platform with Sealift hydraulics...), and they told me to use Seastar hydraulic fluid to replenish our system. Seems like it's pretty commonly used. Who manufactured your hydraulics?
 
Mark,
If its not too late install the 16,000. The price difference is nothing and the footprint is the same . U need all the extra cooling u can muster ..

Rob
 
What holds the arch access panels on? Is there access behind both the round topped one and the triangle shaped one? Just pry them off?
420DA Arch access.JPG
 
Woody said:
What holds the arch access panels on? Is there access behind both the round topped one and the triangle shaped one? Just pry them off?
View attachment 46074
Click to expand...

Just pry the top piece off. It is held in with Xmas tree type fastener. Go slow and you can re-use them. There is access behind there to snake wire and also the Arch bolts.
 
Woody said:
What holds the arch access panels on? Is there access behind both the round topped one and the triangle shaped one? Just pry them off?
View attachment 46074
Click to expand...

I had the starboard lower panel off yesterday. They are held on with christmas tree clips. Just pry off and there is a lot of access there.
 
Hello all. Getting a 2004 420 tomorrow. Has anybody removed the aft cabin TV. I have not looked at it too much yet but it looks like it must bolt from the bottom.


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Greetings all,

New to the 420 world.....we got our baby back in August. I'm prepping my materials and procedures list to winterize. This past weekend, I was going through the process in my mind, and all of a sudden a remembered the macerator pump. The switch is always OFF, the breaker is always OFF, and on my boat, the handle on the seacock is physicially removed. So here's the question......after a really good pump-out, rinse, pump-out again process on the Waste Tank, and after pouring Pink AF through the heads, do you open up the macerator seacock and actually pump Pink AF through the thru-hull?

Thanks for all of your help.

Jaybeaux
Naught On Call
2004 420
 
I know I don't and never heard of anyone that has. There is a very good chance the macerator has never seen liquid unless you boat (or previous owners) in areas with few or no pump outs so it should already "winterized".

PS I hate the fact that were discussing winterization already! We had two late season trips cancelled due to weather and withdrawl is already starting even though I don't come out until next Friday!
 
I would not be concerned with the macerator. The water heater drain is tricky. I found a piece of garden hose to put on the drain (10') and leave it year round. It allows the water to drain into lowest bilge compartment. Im always trying to hurry it up so I crack a hot valve in the boat & put garden hose into shop vac hose and suck.
 
ASH said:
I would not be concerned with the macerator. The water heater drain is tricky. I found a piece of garden hose to put on the drain (10') and leave it year round. It allows the water to drain into lowest bilge compartment. Im always trying to hurry it up so I crack a hot valve in the boat & put garden hose into shop vac hose and suck.
Click to expand...
I made this for $16
307046a8e24380cc94bf7570b55ab9cf.jpg


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I winterized my QSC 8.3 engines with 8 gallons of antifreeze. In the past I used 10 gallons. It was raining I saw some pink but did not clime out of the boat to look under the boat. I am now nervous that I did not use enough. Can some one tell if I need to add more.

Don
 
When I calculated the amount of water in the pipes and heat exchangers from the strainer to the exhaust shower head I got something one the order of 2.8 gallons. So 4 gallons in each engine should be enough depending on whether your strainers had water or antifreeze in them before you started. I drain my strainers first, then pre-fill with antifreeze so its only the pipes getting mixed with water.
 
Just started looking to upgrade my 340 to a 420/440. What are the major differences between the 420 and 440 and are Diesel engines a must have? I am on Lake St Clair/ Lake Erie most of the time
 
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