420/44 DB Owners Club

[boaterholic]

See post 1721 here 420/44 DB Owners Club

Thanks

 

[Mark.60]

I also noticed seepage from the end of this section into the aft sump area. I will be drilling a hole on saturday.

 

[craigswardmtb]

For those with polycarbonate front panels, what did you do with the center panel to allow opening? Currently I have a u shape strataglass zippered section where it rolls up. I was thinking I can do the same with Polycarbonate and snap it flat to the arch but I'm getting conflicting reports on if this is possible. Has anyone done this? The other thought was to eliminate the u section and just make the whole panel hinge back and snap to the arch. The concerns with this route is if the panel will be flexible enough to clear the dash, and the ability to unsnap/resnap it from the windshield. How did you guys go about it? Anyone have pictures of their setup?

 

[Carpediem44DB]

I think it all depends on how much canvas margin you use that will dictate if it will go past the dash and simply hinge from the top zipper. If you have Poly side windows and have them swing in and snap to the bridge ceiling you will find they over lap creating issues of how to snap them all together with out having to put snaps in the windows. At speed also the panels will flap. I was considering this at one point and was thinking of putting a plastic hinge somewhere in the middle of the center panel high enough to not be in my line of sight when seated. I could then unzip and fold down to get good airflow with out worrying about how to secure it. Of course I solved my dilemma by selling the 44 and buying the Carver 506 with all glass enclosure. If I want air in my face I fire up the 16000 BTU AC with the air output grill the entire width of the bridge!
Cheers
Carpe Deim

 

[Irie308]

We went with removable u shaped panels which also have the option to snap to the arch. Thank god we did because we’ve had to close it in the sound and wouldn’t want to wrestle with the whole center panel. We mostly snap it up but if wind is a stern we will remove.View attachment 102175

 

[craigswardmtb]

Thx guys. Looks good Irie. Is that ez2cy?
The guy I'm looking to use, uses makralon marine 5 which sounds like a good comparable option. The big difference being you stitch in the makralon. I have an extra set of new canvas that has smoked 30g vinyl, which I'm not the biggest fan of. So I'm planning to have him use that to simply swap out the existing vinyl for new poly. $1700 for the 3 panels up front. I didn't think that sounded too bad as I hear that material is pretty pricey?

 

[Irie308]

Thx guys. Looks good Irie. Is that ez2cy?
The guy I'm looking to use, uses makralon marine 5 which sounds like a good comparable option. The big difference being you stitch in the makralon. I have an extra set of new canvas that has smoked 30g vinyl, which I'm not the biggest fan of. So I'm planning to have him use that to simply swap out the existing vinyl for new poly. $1700 for the 3 panels up front. I didn't think that sounded too bad as I hear that material is pretty pricey?

No its the Makralon product. I shopped around and my local shop was the only one that had the machine that could have stitched the U shapes with the equipment he has. Very glad I did as the removal and storage of the U's are very easy. That sounds very reasonable for the 3 panels and you can't beat the clarity.

 

[Flix2]

Hello Everyone! I'm a newbie with serious intention to have a 44 or 420 soon. Please let me know if I'm at the worng place for my questions. I have a dock with 30 amp. Upgrading requires lengthy and expensive premits from 2 agencies. Can I use a 30 to 50 amp adapter just to charge the batteries and to use 110 outlets (not the AC's)? I read somewhere that an isolation transformer may prevent this. How can I tell if the prospective boat has that? Are there any alternative solutions? Thank you!

 

[Jaybeaux]

@Flix2 I have a 2004 420 Sundancer. My boat is a dual 30 amp boat. The recepticals for 30 amps are very different than those for 50 amps. From what you've described, there is no reason to even consider the 50 amp adapter. If all you have is a 30 pedestal at the dock, you will then only be able to power one side of your electrical panel. Now, you can swap it from side to side depending on what your needs are on the boat.

I'd seriously look at running another 30 amp circuit to the existing pedestal, and if it were me, I wouldn't ask for permission.

Jaybeaux

 

[craigswardmtb]

Also if you have a standard 110 you could run an adapter that allows you to plug into the other 30 receptacle on the boat and at least minimally power the other side of the panel. As long as you don't run two major appliances it will probably be fine. Two big draw appliances, like AC and water heater, and it will quickly trip your circuit.

 

[boaterholic]

Totally agree with last two posts. If it’s going to be a major hassle and expense to run the proper power out to boat, then I’d follow last two posts suggestions. And you could run one of the ac/heat units if you plug your existing 30 amp circuit to shore power 1 which I believe is the one that has the ac seawater pump and the salon ac. Then as other poster said use the regular 110 with adapter on shore power two and keep minimal loads on it

 

[Flix2]

Thank all for the replies! I'm so confused. The pic below is the male end of the power cord that goes to the 50 amp outlet at the seller's dock pedestal. My dock has a single 30 amp outlet and a 110v outlet. I'm not sure how I can connect my 30 amp to one side of the boat and the 110 to the other side. Are there other connectors inside the boat that I can plug the 30 amp? It will be a while before I dare to modify the electricals because some of my neighbors have been cited.

 

[LG111]

Hope this solves your concern. First the 42 or 44 has two 30amp connections in the trunk. Most of us use a 30 Amp Y connection to both 30s. Then a 30 Amp power cord connects to the bottom of the Y. From there it's to the dock. If the power box is 30 Amp plug into that. You are good to go. If the box is 50 and there are two types of 50amp, slightly different prongs, then add a 30amp to 50amp adapter. Then plug and play.

Note this set up only allows 30amp max to your boat. So basically both port and starboard 110 has 15 amps each. Or some balance of that before the panel breaker or breaker in trunk flips.
Special note, if you run two 30 Amp plugs to two power box's you'll have full 30amp on both sides. On our 44 I have never tripped the power at 15 amps both sides unless the hot water is on and wife uses hairdryer. We have learned to just turn hot water off when using hairdryer.

If you run the genny, you have two full 30amps both sides.

Hope the additional info helps here. Just watch your amp meters and between them don't go over 30 when using the Y set up, which is most common.


Mark

 

[LG111]

As for the 50amp to the sellers dock. That power line probably goes to the truck and converted from 50amp to two 30amp Y. Regardless, you then have 15 amps on both sides. Not a prefered set up and a bulky cord to deal with.

Special note: store an extra 30 Amp cord in the anchor locker. When pulling into a slip bow first the cord is ready to go to dock and the other end to the stern. Plug and play about mid ship... easy peezy.

 

[Flix2]

Mark, That makes perfect sense! Thank you for breaking it down to the basics. Now I understand what Jay, Craig, and Boaterholic said. It all makes sense. I can use a 30 amp Y-splitter or use 30 amp on power 1 and 110 with adapter on power 2 with caution.
If I understand it correctly, my best set up would be adding a second 30 amp circuit instead of trading my current 30 amp for a new 50 amp. I will need 2 30-amp cables to connect the outlets to the boat. I wonder if the electical winch (Glendinning?) could wind 2 cables at once. My house is undergoing renovation and the electrician will be upgading the main panel from 150 amp to 200 amp. It will be a perfect time to sneak the 2nd 30-amp to the dock.
Please let me know if I am making any mistakes. Thank you again!

 

[boaterholic]

Mark, That makes perfect sense! Thank you for breaking it down to the basics. Now I understand what Jay, Craig, and Boaterholic said. It all makes sense. I can use a 30 amp Y-splitter or use 30 amp on power 1 and 110 with adapter on power 2 with caution.
If I understand it correctly, my best set up would be adding a second 30 amp circuit instead of trading my current 30 amp for a new 50 amp. I will need 2 30-amp cables to connect the outlets to the boat. I wonder if the electical winch (Glendinning?) could wind 2 cables at once. My house is undergoing renovation and the electrician will be upgading the main panel from 150 amp to 200 amp. It will be a perfect time to sneak the 2nd 30-amp to the dock.
Please let me know if I am making any mistakes. Thank you again!

You’ve got it! I would do your second choice of running normal 30 amp to one side and the 110 with adapter to 30amp plug on the other until you can run your second 30 amp line out to dock.
I just reconfigured my dock a month ago for our boat and I ran new electrical to dock pedestal and it has dual 30 amp service plus a 110 outlet at the pedestal. From the pedestal I’m running two 30 amp cords to the boat.

 

[Tomco]

No its the Makralon product. I shopped around and my local shop was the only one that had the machine that could have stitched the U shapes with the equipment he has. Very glad I did as the removal and storage of the U's are very easy. That sounds very reasonable for the 3 panels and you can't beat the clarity.

Topic is timely as we will have to replace the three panels sometime this year. Haven't seen this on the boats around here - what thickness did you go? I assume you cannot roll it up, hence the removal of the U's? is it flexible enough that the front U could be pulled up and attached to the arch? Thks

 

[boaterholic]

Topic is timely as we will have to replace the three panels sometime this year. Haven't seen this on the boats around here - what thickness did you go? I assume you cannot roll it up, hence the removal of the U's? is it flexible enough that the front U could be pulled up and attached to the arch? Thks

Basically the canvas at the top of the U forms a hinge and the panel does swing in and attaches with snaps to the bottom of arch. At least that’s how it is on ours.

 

[Irie308]

Topic is timely as we will have to replace the three panels sometime this year. Haven't seen this on the boats around here - what thickness did you go? I assume you cannot roll it up, hence the removal of the U's? is it flexible enough that the front U could be pulled up and attached to the arch? Thks

Not certain of the thickness but it can not be rolled up. As stated above its hinged from the zipper so that you can snap to the arch.

 

[Flix2]

Aftercoolers & heat exhanger replace or repair?
I am getting another step closer to be the proud owner of a 44. Yeah! Engine and boat surveys are done. The fluid anlysis was fine. I am concerned about what the commin tech/surveyor deemed important action items. These 3 items are the most expensive:

1. The aftercooler housing seals are leaking and the aftercoolers are in poor condition and should be replaced. $7,500 (parts)
2. The marine heat exchanger is leaking and is in poor condition. Replace heat exchanger and all related seawater and cooling hoses. $400 (parts)
3. Port Engine: Replace wet exhaust elbow hose and all related clamps. The hose has been leaking seawater and is in poor condition. $450 (parts)
4. Labor: $6,500 for above and a few miscellaneous items.

The boat purchase took a big bite out of our savings. We are hoping to reduce the added expenses but not to endanger ourselves with broken down engines in the middle of the sea. I'm pretty handy with cars and house repairs but ignorant about disel engines. What's your opinion on reconditioning (not sure the correct term) vs replacing? How soon should I do these repairs? Thank you in advance!

Here are some photos:

Starboard aftercooler

port aftercooler

port exhaust elbow

(Onan) Replace marine heat exchanger and related hoses