40 sedan bridge forum

I finished replacing both belts yesterday. The Stbd engine was the harder of the two, but overall not difficult. I learned a few tips, that may help out.

The overflow can mounted on the bulkhead was in the way to remove the belt shroud. What seemed like the lesser of two evils was to loosen and move engine coolant tank. Keeping all hoses connected, I tied a line to hold it up.

2urp6jc.jpg


3 bolts hold it together:
--10MM head on the front
--10MM through the Alternator Bracket
--15MM through the Motor Mount

You can find the location of each bolt by inspecting the shroud housing. The brackets are held on with large rivets. Find those, and the bolts are not far.

Lastly, you need to install the 15MM bolt a little blind, and dropping it off the socket will ruin your day (searching for it in the bilge). I ended up taking a little electrical tape to hold it to the socket. This made installation much easier for me.

2ufdcfr.jpg



On the Port engine, you need to remove the fire extinguisher tank.

Have Fun!!
My boat came without a starboard belt guard. Bought one from SBMAR and tried to install it today. Had no problems finding and removing the three bolts has I have done the port before. But I also have problems with the coolant overflow tank blocking the positioning of the guard. I am going to give it one more shot based on a wild theory. But when that fails, sure would like to permanently relocate the overflow tank so I wouldn't have to deal with it everytime the belt guard has to come off, or devise some sort of clamp on approach so I don't have to take out all 6 of those screws (three of them blind). Anyone tried this before?

Paul, so you figured removing the four bolts holding the tank was easier than removing the 6 screws holding the overflow bottle?
 
Bill, What are the two conduits/cables in your post #896 that pass above the mixer elbow and go forward past the coolant tank on the port engine?
 
Bill, What are the two conduits/cables in your post #896 that pass above the mixer elbow and go forward past the coolant tank on the port engine?
Throttle cables. You can barely see that the port one comes back around the outside of the engine between the coolant tank and the coolant overflow where it disappears and connects to the throttle on the port side of the engine. On the second picture you can see where the other one has curved around the starboard engine remote oil filter and connects to the throttle.
 
OK, I was just trying to figure out what you have different than I that I have no problem getting the belt guards off.
Your bottles are in the same place as mine as near I can tell. Here is an old pic from survey of the area up front. You can see if something looks different that you may be able to move.
Do you have sync? if so where is that mounted?

DSC_0018_zpsxwim0mxn.jpg
 
It's the starboard side that's the problem. How exactly are you sliding in and out your starboard belt guard? From the top or the side?

I do not have synch.
 
Paul, so you figured removing the four bolts holding the tank was easier than removing the 6 screws holding the overflow bottle?

Bill - Removing the 4 bolts was easy and you can stand between the engines comfortably. To remove the 6 screws, you need to lay over the engine, and turn screws blindly. I suppose with power tools, the job may be easier, but I didn't have any of that onboard.
 
OK, I was just trying to figure out what you have different than I that I have no problem getting the belt guards off.
Your bottles are in the same place as mine as near I can tell. Here is an old pic from survey of the area up front. You can see if something looks different that you may be able to move.
Do you have sync? if so where is that mounted?

DSC_0018_zpsxwim0mxn.jpg

I have the same looms as Bill on my Port engine. I don't have an engine sync either.

Here is a pic from another thread
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/72294-Exhaust-Elbow-Pitting-(Pic)?p=823100#post823100
 
It's the starboard side that's the problem. How exactly are you sliding in and out your starboard belt guard? From the top or the side?

I do not have synch.

Bill, I really don't know how I get it in and out, It's easy so there is no thought about doing it, I just take it out. Next time I will pay attention, sorry.
 
I have the same looms as Bill on my Port engine. I don't have an engine sync either.

I was wondering if those cables might go to something mounted on the front bulkhead that was causing the clearance issues.
The throttle cables run around the outside on mine.
 
Bill - Removing the 4 bolts was easy and you can stand between the engines comfortably. To remove the 6 screws, you need to lay over the engine, and turn screws blindly. I suppose with power tools, the job may be easier, but I didn't have any of that onboard.

Did you drain the tank or leave the coolant in it?
 
A buddy of mine is a broker and just got the listing on a 2002 400DB in my marina, with Cummins engines with only 175 hours on one engine and 182 on the other. Its a Texas boat (near Houston) that moved here about 9 months ago. Should be on the regular boat sale internet sites within two weeks.
 
A buddy of mine is a broker and just got the listing on a 2002 400DB in my marina, with Cummins engines with only 175 hours on one engine and 182 on the other. Its a Texas boat (near Houston) that moved here about 9 months ago. Should be on the regular boat sale internet sites within two weeks.

Le us know when it lists. I have friends that may be interested.
 
Anyone replace the check valve on the Atwood 11 gallon Hot Water Heater?

We have good water pressure from the City Water on cold but the hot water starts out okay, but the pressure drops considerably after a minute or two. Contacted Atwood and they stated the only restriction could be the check valve. I am not down to the boat until this weekend, so I can't check it out until then, just wondering if I should try to pickup a check valve to have it ready to replace.
 
I am interested to buy a 400 sedan bridge sea Ray, 2000 or newer
Fernando.



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A buddy of mine is a broker and just got the listing on a 2002 400DB in my marina, with Cummins engines with only 175 hours on one engine and 182 on the other. Its a Texas boat (near Houston) that moved here about 9 months ago. Should be on the regular boat sale internet sites within two weeks.

I am interested to buy a 400 sedan bridge sea Ray, 2000 or newer
Fernando.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

you've come to the right place for questions.


If post # 937 and 933 should ever meet....just saying
 
I am buying a sea Ray 400 sedan bridge, everything looks fine and very well maintained in south Florida, the only thing is one engine Cummins 6cta, shows high level of aluminum in the oil sample, shows 53, and the average apparently is 37; is this a big deal? I don't have experience with Diesel engines, it has about 1,100 hours . It is for sale and the price is right.
Any recommendation?
How much it will cost in the future to rebuild that engine?, the other one the oil test looks fine aluminum content was 20 , average is 37, so it is below average. It runs great.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Bill - Removing the 4 bolts was easy and you can stand between the engines comfortably. To remove the 6 screws, you need to lay over the engine, and turn screws blindly. I suppose with power tools, the job may be easier, but I didn't have any of that onboard.

I got nervous about bending the hoses connected to the tank, so I went the other route and removed the overflow jug. There are 4 screws on each side. Got them all out leaning on the salon floor next to the galley. When I put them back in I conveniently omitted the bottom outside screw.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1433428537.220801.jpg
 

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