40 sedan bridge forum

Has anyone removed the screwed down metal engine room floor? What's under there? Reason I ask is I spilled some oil when changing my filter and some got wicked in between the stringer and the floor. So when I step on the edge of the floor at that spot, a dab of oil will squeeze out. So that got my curiosity going.
 
ZZ13 said:
Has anyone removed the screwed down metal engine room floor? What's under there? Reason I ask is I spilled some oil when changing my filter and some got wicked in between the stringer and the floor. So when I step on the edge of the floor at that spot, a dab of oil will squeeze out. So that got my curiosity going.
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I have not had a reason to access that area, but I'm sure you'll be updating us soon. Haha
 
PMC said:
I have not had a reason to access that area, but I'm sure you'll be updating us soon. Haha
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I am still knee deep in scraping, rust reversing and brush painting engines, transmissions, engine mounts and Racor housings that were cosmetically neglected in a salt environment for 12 years. That is one tedious job. And there are still places I won't be able to get access to. And how come I don't have those cool Diamond stickers on the HX that all the rest of you Cummins owners have?
 
on your Racor's, what micron filter do you use and why? It appears that I have 2 micron filters. That's what came with the boat last year, when I bought it. Does that let enough fuel through to keep the engines happy?
 
mjmason1 said:
on your Racor's, what micron filter do you use and why? It appears that I have 2 micron filters. That's what came with the boat last year, when I bought it. Does that let enough fuel through to keep the engines happy?
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On my Cummins I have 30micron Racors and 20/10 micron (whatever that means) spin on secondary filters on the engine. I have checked with other Cummins owners and that's what they run as well. 2 micron might be right for CATS. I wouldn't know. Frank probably knows that one right off the top of his head. Do you have a secondary filter on the engine?
 
ZZ13 said:
I am still knee deep in scraping, rust reversing and brush painting engines, transmissions, engine mounts and Racor housings that were cosmetically neglected in a salt environment for 12 years. That is one tedious job. And there are still places I won't be able to get access to. And how come I don't have those cool Diamond stickers on the HX that all the rest of you Cummins owners have?
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This boat spent several years in brackish water, and don't have much of rust to contend with. I doing my part keeping it this way with the seasonal cleanup. I have just finish all the paintwork on mechanicals. A tough area is on the block, under the radiator cap. It is damn near impossible to get paint in there.

As far as stickers go, that is simply a sign of never servicing the HX.
 
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Your primary filters, the Racors should be 30 micron......20XX-PMOR. If you are using Caterpillar brand secondary filters like the 1R-750 or 1R-751, you are trapping the fuel delivered to the injectors at 2 microns anyway. There isn't anything wrong with running 10 or 2 micron Racors except that you are over filtering and run the risk of getting a filter clogged up at an "un-handy" time, like when you are running thru an inlet in 8 ft seas.

The theory is to let the Racor primaries catch the majority of the debris in the fuel and let the secondary cleanse the remainder down to what the injectors can pass thru. It makes no sense to run 2 micon filters in both primary and secondary filters and 10 micron primaries are ok except you have less overall capacity when you get some bad fuel or the normal diesel "stuff" happens. With normal fuel additives, you should easily get a year and up to about 250 hours on 30 micron primaries....or plenty enough capacity to allow you to pick the time and place you change the filters. The last thing you want is to have to change the Racors while bouncing around in the bilge in a 4-6 ft. sea, and you run that risk with 2 micron Racors.
 
ZZ13 said:
On my Cummins I have 30micron Racors and 20/10 micron (whatever that means) spin on secondary filters on the engine.
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Bill,
The filters are tested and an efficiency rating is given to them. The 20/10 micron rating means that it will catch a certain percentage of 20 micron or larger particles, and certain percentage of 10 micron or larger particles. FF5285 filters are somewhere around 95% and 85%, meaning it will stop 95% of particles 20 microns or larger, and 85% of 10 or larger. Some filters may be rated as "20/10" but at a much lower efficiency , say 75% / 50%. When the common rail diesels came on the scene, fuel filtration became a bigger deal, and we went to some seminars on the care and feeding, and the biggest thing they wanted us to take away from the fuel filter discussions was to use the filters that the manufacturer specs. Us Cummins guys should be using Fleetguard and the Cat guys Cat, etc. Filtration isn't an area that you want to be going aftermarket unless you know the specs on the filters.
 
ZZ13 said:
Maybe its fiberglass. Its got raised bumps like a metal sheet has. And its screwed down to the stringers every couple of feet.
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I don't know what it is either...Maybe some type of color impregnated high impact plastic ? It takes a beating with no rust, corrosion, or chipping.
I haven't had it up, so I don't know what the bilge looks like under it.
 
ZZ13 said:
Thanks. What are the specifics as to what you did via that cabinet to run the cable?
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Bill,
He must not have checked back in, so maybe he won't mind if I take a crack at the answer.
Most of the cables and wires up to the bridge from the ER run on the port side. If you look in the locker in front of the port bridge chair, you have seen the big mass of wires and cables disappearing into the side of the boat. Next remove the subwoofer and you will see just aft of the opening, those cables go down through a rabbit hole
into an area that you can access by removing the stereo from the cabinet. Through that area, you can guide your wires or cables to the area behind the electrical panel,
You get into that area by removing the 2 longer screws on the left side of the electrical panel and it swings open on the hinge on the right side. I recently ran a conduit from the ER to the dash for some wiring for temperature switches I installed.
 
my3sons said:
Bill,
He must not have checked back in, so maybe he won't mind if I take a crack at the answer.
Most of the cables and wires up to the bridge from the ER run on the port side. If you look in the locker in front of the port bridge chair, you have seen the big mass of wires and cables disappearing into the side of the boat. Next remove the subwoofer and you will see just aft of the opening, those cables go down through a rabbit hole
into an area that you can access by removing the stereo from the cabinet. Through that area, you can guide your wires or cables to the area behind the electrical panel,
You get into that area by removing the 2 longer screws on the left side of the electrical panel and it swings open on the hinge on the right side. I recently ran a conduit from the ER to the dash for some wiring for temperature switches I installed.
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Interesting. Thanks. I have had every one of those spots opened up for various reasons (replaced subwoofer, installed a second head unit below the factory unit, cleaned out a dead rat that came with the boat and was laying next to the wiring and components behind the electrical panel) and never noticed anything other than what I was interested in working on.
 
When I bought the boat in Nov/2013 it had seen 12 years of southeast coast salt life with no cosmetic maintenance done in the engine room. In addition there had been some salt water leaks from the hoses that made some areas cosmetically worse than normal (especially the port engine). I've spent almost every day of the past month focusing on cosmetically restoring the Cummins engines and the transmissions. Here's a snap shot of where I am so far. I still have some areas to do (coolant tanks, port coolant fill extension, starboard fuel cooler, among them), but I am getting close. Its been some of the most tedious work I have ever done. Scraping, dapping on rust reversing chemicals, cleaning off grease and dirt, and then painting almost exclusively with a brush. I used Rustoleum white and almond mixed 50-50 for the brush work. And I used Rustoleum Canvas White in the rattle can for the few spots I sprayed (mostly the areas the brush wouldn't reach and some things I now have off the engines (aft metal seawater tube, heat exchangers and its clamps, belt guards). I did the best I could to get it clean before painting, but I still managed to paint over some dirt and grease, I am sure. I also found dust and lint likes to immediately settle onto the wet paint. Adds texture (ha!). I'll post some final pictures when I get it all done and put back together - probably in two weeks.
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Here are some more shots. The port aft engine mounts were nearly 100% rusted over.
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