40 sedan bridge forum

[cwiert]

I saw this on FB. Very nice boat sir.

Thank you. She's been very good to us. Gonna be a little sad to see her go.

 

[PMC]

Good luck with the sale. There is certainly a love for that model in this thread!!!!

 

[Njlarry]

Resealing leaking windshield per ZZ13 instructions he has posted and hoping ZZ will chime in here. Po had irregular globs of goo smeared under the weatherstrip trim. Removing it with sharp putty knive and a razor.
Pic below shows outer corner of starboard side. Note the hard rubber block at the edge of the glass. These are about every foot around the glass. Where the glass is close to the metal frame they are almost completely over the glass. Here where there is a large cap they barely touch the glass. I don't know their function but plan to leave them alone.
As there is about 3/4 of an inch gap between the glass and the frame I not sure if I should run a normal size bead of the Dow 795 at the glass edge and another at the frame edge, or multiple passes, or one big glob from the glass edge to the frame edge. Any feedback would be most welcomed.
For anyone planing to do this ZZ s posts on resealing are really helpful.
Ps I promise more pics to follow.

 

[atrick]

Resealing leaking windshield per ZZ13 instructions he has posted and hoping ZZ will chime in here. Po had irregular globs of goo smeared under the weatherstrip trim. Removing it with sharp putty knive and a razor.
Pic below shows outer corner of starboard side. Note the hard rubber block at the edge of the glass. These are about every foot around the glass. Where the glass is close to the metal frame they are almost completely over the glass. Here where there is a large cap they barely touch the glass. I don't know their function but plan to leave them alone.
As there is about 3/4 of an inch gap between the glass and the frame I not sure if I should run a normal size bead of the Dow 795 at the glass edge and another at the frame edge, or multiple passes, or one big glob from the glass edge to the frame edge. Any feedback would be most welcomed.
For anyone planing to do this ZZ s posts on resealing are really helpful.
Ps I promise more pics to follow.

Those plastic pieces are where a lot of water get by, when I did mine I took them out. I left them in then resealed around them and after sealant dried sprayed with hose and water seeped by them so I took them all out and and resealed where they were and everything was fine. I ran a strip of tape around glass, in enough so trim would hide it and filled in with a solid bead up to where the trim pushes in to metal frame and smoothed with my finger then removed tape. I removed all the old sealant down to foam that glass sits on then all new sealant with new rubber trim. I think the plastic pieces were to keep glass in place when made till original sealant dried.

 

[ZZ13]

Resealing leaking windshield per ZZ13 instructions he has posted and hoping ZZ will chime in here. Po had irregular globs of goo smeared under the weatherstrip trim. Removing it with sharp putty knive and a razor.
Pic below shows outer corner of starboard side. Note the hard rubber block at the edge of the glass. These are about every foot around the glass. Where the glass is close to the metal frame they are almost completely over the glass. Here where there is a large cap they barely touch the glass. I don't know their function but plan to leave them alone.
As there is about 3/4 of an inch gap between the glass and the frame I not sure if I should run a normal size bead of the Dow 795 at the glass edge and another at the frame edge, or multiple passes, or one big glob from the glass edge to the frame edge. Any feedback would be most welcomed.
For anyone planing to do this ZZ s posts on resealing are really helpful.
Ps I promise more pics to follow.

Those blocks actually held the glass in place when it was first installed (at least I assumed that) before they sealed it up. I left mine in as well. Some of mine were angled up rather than flat. I shaved down the excess sticking up so they wouldn’t push up against the new rubber trim.

I ran the new sealant all the way to the frame but it was just a thin layer since I left most of the old sealant in the trough spanning that gap. I put down about the thickness of the glass since I wanted to make sure to cover the edge of the glass and about 1/8” or so over the glass. The whole thing was a big “feel” project. I did what I felt seemed right as I went along.

 

[Pgeee]

Westerbeke btd8, I’ll try here first before starting a new thread as I expect many of us have this unit with a single remote switch on the searay panel for start/stop. This week thatcabin on/off switch decided after regular remote shutdown it would keep its little green light on. Normally after a period of a few seconds after shutdown it goes off. So it’s as if whatever that process is that switches the cabin switch indicator off , is for some reason not executing. I can get around it by either turning off the generator with the on/off switch on the back of the actual generator, then turn back on again . Or by pretending to restart the generator from the remote switch in the cabin, i.e just flicking it on for a half second. That ‘time out’ does turn off the indicator. I changed the oil and filter and anode this week, and had the valve cover off, but didn’t touch any electrical stuff. Thoughts appreciated.

 

[Njlarry]

As promised attached are pic of our progress. Have removed all of old mess of caulking in pic 1 and close up in pic two. Apparently PO just sqeezed globs of caulk under the trim. Plan to cut trim to size before caulking then add a day afterward.
How much should trim be cut long to allow for shrinkage? Best tool? First practice cuts with box cutter were not pretty. Going to try kitchen shears next.

 

[Pgeee]

I haven't done this job but cutting rubber in the past I've used as you say shears, whether kitchen or garden or even metal cutting shears should work. My screen has been done sometime in the past, I know this because the trim that wraps around the bottom internally (port side) I removed last week and it's rotted out under the vinyl, yet I have no leaks. I have to get some bendy ply and make a new one somehow. Some hack used sealant to stick the inner vertical trims back up as the xmas tree clips were not holding. I'm in the process of both replacing xmas tree clips which is quite laborious , drilling the old ones out, gluing in new ones, hoping they will hold. As we are messing with the same part of the boat am watching your posts closely.

 

[dtfeld]

Westerbeke btd8, I’ll try here first before starting a new thread as I expect many of us have this unit with a single remote switch on the searay panel for start/stop. This week thatcabin on/off switch decided after regular remote shutdown it would keep its little green light on. Normally after a period of a few seconds after shutdown it goes off. So it’s as if whatever that process is that switches the cabin switch indicator off , is for some reason not executing. I can get around it by either turning off the generator with the on/off switch on the back of the actual generator, then turn back on again . Or by pretending to restart the generator from the remote switch in the cabin, i.e just flicking it on for a half second. That ‘time out’ does turn off the indicator. I changed the oil and filter and anode this week, and had the valve cover off, but didn’t touch any electrical stuff. Thoughts appreciated.

I think this is worthy of a new thread under the Diesel Engines/Drive/Transmission/Props section. I think it will get a lot more traction as many of us have these same era Westerbekes. The whole line from about 5Kw to 15Kw are about the same, and I try to keep up with what others are experiencing, as I'm likely to see the same in the not too distant future.

 

[ZZ13]

As promised attached are pic of our progress. Have removed all of old mess of caulking in pic 1 and close up in pic two. Apparently PO just sqeezed globs of caulk under the trim. Plan to cut trim to size before caulking then add a day afterward.
How much should trim be cut long to allow for shrinkage? Best tool? First practice cuts with box cutter were not pretty. Going to try kitchen shears next.

I just cut to fit. No extra length. I mitered the corners and smoothed a line of black sealant over the miter to bind them together. I had no problem making nice cuts with the utility knife. You can’t even tell the sealant is there. Then I filled the underside of the mitered corner with sealant to glue both pieces of trim to the window to hold it in place over time. Been a little over 9 years now and no shrinkage. At the nine year mark the factory trim was severely shrunk off the corners. My boat is out in the sun and weather 24/7. If you want I can post a picture of one of my corners.

 

[atrick]

When I mitered the corners I glued them with thick super glue, kept the joints together.

 

[TotallyGross]

I haven't done this job but cutting rubber in the past I've used as you say shears, whether kitchen or garden or even metal cutting shears should work. My screen has been done sometime in the past, I know this because the trim that wraps around the bottom internally (port side) I removed last week and it's rotted out under the vinyl, yet I have no leaks. I have to get some bendy ply and make a new one somehow. Some hack used sealant to stick the inner vertical trims back up as the xmas tree clips were not holding. I'm in the process of both replacing xmas tree clips which is quite laborious , drilling the old ones out, gluing in new ones, hoping they will hold. As we are messing with the same part of the boat am watching your posts closely.

THEE best tool for cutting that is aviation snips. I use them for tons of thick trim pieces of various types.
Good luck with your project. Get the window and frame surface REALLY good and clean.

 

[david_h]

CAT 3126 Impellers....

I will soon need to tackle these, and of course dreading the port side. I did these a couple of years back, and I am interested in how others positioned the keyway. In my previous attempt, I "bumped" the keyway to about the 7pm position, then placed the key inside the new impeller, and then used a gear clamp to compress the vanes.

Hanging down, one-eyed and one-handed I eventually got the new impeller in. I figured having the key inside the impeller would mean than any key that got dislodged would not drop down the inflow pipe at the bottom of the pump body, but instead drop down to inside the impeller(and start over). But I am certainly open to other ideas to make that step easier.

I did read several posts about having the keyway at the very top 12:00 position (I think they were cummins posts), and placing the key on the shaft up there, but it just seems that any misalignment with the new impeller being inserted, and the key could certainly drop down into that pipe at the bottom of the pump body.

Comments are certainly welcome.

tks

Dave

 

[mike1234]

i have use a single blade that is 2 inches long hose cutter

 

[Drafter]

Pulling my port transmission to drop in a reman. Replacing exhaust hoses was already on my list this spring. They all had to come out with this job anyway. You never know when a previous owner may have lost an impeller. Replacing all of it with the silicone good stuff while it’s out. If your rubber softwall wet exhaust hose is very soft in spots, it’s probably delaminated inside.