40 sedan bridge forum

[TotallyGross]

Thanks, I will take a look to see if I can get a new cable up there. That is the new antenna I was looking at. What size did you use? Greg

The one I sent the link to is the one I bought. I had Coax running to the Arch already from that cabinet.
Not a horrible fish job.

 

[ZZ13]

Finally got a chair. The salon/dinette refurb is complete.

 

[scooper321]

So interesting thing I learned on shakedown. The port sofa is held on to the frame by some small L brackets and some tiny (under 1”) screws. If you sit on the edge of it (amidships) it will cantilever up and tear off the blocks. Not a hard repair I don’t think. But surprise if that it lasted this long with those tiny screws!

 

[randerson]

Has anyone experienced a lack of heating and cooling in the guest head and stateroom? The master stateroom/head heats and cools very quickly robbing the other room of heat, likely due to the length of the ducting.

Has anyone added a damper to even out the flow?

 

[scooper321]

Has anyone experienced a lack of heating and cooling in the guest head and stateroom? The master stateroom/head heats and cools very quickly robbing the other room of heat, likely due to the length of the ducting.

Has anyone added a damper to even out the flow?

There are two AC/heat units. One is under the master state room, bunk, and it cools the master state room and Ford areas. The other one is under the galley steps and it cools the salon. If you are not getting cooling in the aft portion of the interior, you might want to check and make sure that unit is still working. Although from your question, I’m wondering if you realize you have two units and if the salon one is turned on?

 

[randerson]

There are two AC/heat units. One is under the master state room, bunk, and it cools the master state room and Ford areas. The other one is under the galley steps and it cools the salon. If you are not getting cooling in the aft portion of the interior, you might want to check and make sure that unit is still working. Although from your question, I’m wondering if you realize you have two units and if the salon one is turned on?

Thanks, I’m well aware of where they are as I clean the filters monthly. Both units work well, the issue is as I stated above. If I block or even partially block the flow of the ductwork going to master head and stateroom, a higher volume of air moves to guest head/stateroom.

I am curious if anyone else has experienced this issue. I’ll likely make a damper and play with reducing the air flow of that run at unit itself.

 

[scooper321]

Sorry, meant no disrespect. The way I read your initial post. It wasn’t clear that you realized you had two units. My apologies. I know the units are different sizes as well, are these the original units? Totallygross on here recently replaced one of his new units so he may be able to give you some insight on the symptoms of a failing unit. The snit possible your salon unit is on the way out?

 

[randerson]

Thanks, I did not take it that way. Appreciate your insight, I’ll look through his posts.

 

[ZZ13]

Thanks, I did not take it that way. Appreciate your insight, I’ll look through his posts.

Without being there to feel it, suitable airflow is subjective. Mine is fine for me but may be the same flow as yours. Don’t know. Have you tried closing off the master head vent (since it’s adjustable), and just leaving the head door open to get its cooling from the stateroom, to see if that gets you more air into the guest stateroom and head? Also does the guest stateroom get cool enough if you close its door, so whatever cool air gets in there isn’t just dumping into the hallway? Since The vent is right across from the door.

 

[Pgeee]

Has anyone experienced a lack of heating and cooling in the guest head and stateroom? The master stateroom/head heats and cools very quickly robbing the other room of heat, likely due to the length of the ducting.

Has anyone added a damper to even out the flow?

I have nothing out of the guest cabin outlet, I suspect it's because of an addition of a davit/crane to foredeck which extends down thru the owner's cabin robe in the way of a steel pipe, which I'm assuming means an impediment to the outlet duct(or removal of) from the A/C was added as a result. which I'm also assuming runs thru there somewhere above or below robe, but lots of assumptions and little knowledge here

 

[TotallyGross]

I have nothing out of the guest cabin outlet, I suspect it's because of an addition of a davit/crane to foredeck which extends down thru the owner's cabin robe in the way of a steel pipe, which I'm assuming means an impediment to the outlet duct(or removal of) from the A/C was added as a result. which I'm also assuming runs thru there somewhere above or below robe, but lots of assumptions and little knowledge here

I did learn a LOT about ducting from this experience. I will now gone into the master stateroom and reconnect the ducts for better airflow. My ducts on my main unit were kinked and compromised airflow significantly.
Just in case anyone is wondering, The outlet from the 16K btu unit in the main salon has a 6 inch supply feeding a 7 inch duct and a 3 inch duct. There is a square box with 2 outlets on the original factory unit. I added a Y fitting on my new unit and then stepped one side up and the other side down. The hoses after years need reinforced and I get an enormous volume of air now flowing from both vents. The 3 inch duct is the supply on the starboard side below my cabinet and the 7 inch goes to the vent on the shelf behind the folding salon sofa bed.
IF I were you randerson I would take the duct off the side that is going to the guest stateroom and see if it is crimped or kinked leaving the unit. Especially since you said the air increases if you partially close off the flow in the master. There is an inner duct you can't feel unless you disconnect it. The insulation surrounding it made the pathway impossible to check without disconnecting. (sorry for the long ramble all)

 

[TotallyGross]

I have the 2002 Cummins 6cta. My port engine is about 650 and my starboard is 720.
I have been trying to adjust my idle and can't get the starboard to go any lower. MY screw is almost bottomed out. It does not look like the idle adjustment in this video. Mine has the bolt upside down and the cap is holding the idle a little high on this engine.
This is not how mine looks. Thoughts ?

 

[Looking Good Billy Ray]

I’ll join the AC questions. Here in MN our boats were launched last week. So far weather has been 80 during day and our boat bow faces west in the marina with no cover so the salon and galley heats up pretty quick.
I have my units set to cool at 67 degrees and the master unit reads 68 degrees in side and kicks on no problem. However the salon SMXII registers 63 degrees (obviously it’s above 70 in the salon) and will only kick on when I drop the set temp below 60. Side note I did get a PM5 code yesterday but the sea water strainers are perfectly clean. I turned it off and back and and code was gone. Still registering a 63 temp inside.

Ready go!

 

[TotallyGross]

I’ll join the AC questions. Here in MN our boats were launched last week. So far weather has been 80 during day and our boat bow faces west in the marina with no cover so the salon and galley heats up pretty quick.
I have my units set to cool at 67 degrees and the master unit reads 68 degrees in side and kicks on no problem. However the salon SMXII registers 63 degrees (obviously it’s above 70 in the salon) and will only kick on when I drop the set temp below 60. Side note I did get a PM5 code yesterday but the sea water strainers are perfectly clean. I turned it off and back and and code was gone. Still registering a 63 temp inside.

Ready go!

Here is your "GO".
GO and recalibrate your thermostat by reading this and following the directions.
http://www.tropicalmarineairconditioning.com/sheets/L-2362.pdf

• Upon entering the Programming Mode, press the Set and Up keys simultaneously. The sensed temperature will be displayed.
• Place an accurate thermometer beside the sensor and compare the temperatures.

 

[ZZ13]

I’ll join the AC questions. Here in MN our boats were launched last week. So far weather has been 80 during day and our boat bow faces west in the marina with no cover so the salon and galley heats up pretty quick.
I have my units set to cool at 67 degrees and the master unit reads 68 degrees in side and kicks on no problem. However the salon SMXII registers 63 degrees (obviously it’s above 70 in the salon) and will only kick on when I drop the set temp below 60. Side note I did get a PM5 code yesterday but the sea water strainers are perfectly clean. I turned it off and back and and code was gone. Still registering a 63 temp inside.

Ready go!

Another thing to consider is the water at your river/lake is right now in the low 60s. That’s a nice cooling jacket keeping everything below floor level very cool. The temp sensor is right on the unit which is mounted down in a hole, so the sensor is also in the nice cool subfloor level. The ac will not work unless there is enough heat in the air to have something to remove, and the air down there probably is 63 degrees. I run into this all the time down here in the winter. Nice warm sunny day heats up the cabin space but the air at the ac unit is too cold to do anything. Try running the fan for a while and see what circulating the air does to the air temperature.

 

[bbwhitejr]

Another trick it to remove the thermister (telephone looking wire with the silver bulb on the end) from in front of the return and mount it up in the area you are attempting to cool/heat. It will sense room temp instead of the temp down low in front of the return. I have done this on 2 boats-4 units and it works/reads close to the one at home.

Bennett

 

[Gregl]

Hi everyone, I think I broke a shift cable on my port forward/reverse. Has anyone had to do this? Part # ? Should I do both while I am doing this, since one broke can the other be close behind? Thanks, Greg

 

[Pierpressure1]

Here is the part number for the 28’ cable for starboard. You need the 26’ version for port.


Thanks for the interest in Defender. The current replacement for that part number is our item number 302021633-28 selling for $63.99 each plus the shipping and tax (where applicable). Here is a link to it on our site so you can take a look at the specs:

 

[Gregl]

Here is the part number for the 28’ cable for starboard. You need the 26’ version for port.


Thanks for the interest in Defender. The current replacement for that part number is our item number 302021633-28 selling for $63.99 each plus the shipping and tax (where applicable). Here is a link to it on our site so you can take a look at the specs:

Pierpressure1, thanks. How do you know which ones you need? Sea Ray shows 4 different lengths for the cables.

 

[randerson]

I did learn a LOT about ducting from this experience. I will now gone into the master stateroom and reconnect the ducts for better airflow. My ducts on my main unit were kinked and compromised airflow significantly.
Just in case anyone is wondering, The outlet from the 16K btu unit in the main salon has a 6 inch supply feeding a 7 inch duct and a 3 inch duct. There is a square box with 2 outlets on the original factory unit. I added a Y fitting on my new unit and then stepped one side up and the other side down. The hoses after years need reinforced and I get an enormous volume of air now flowing from both vents. The 3 inch duct is the supply on the starboard side below my cabinet and the 7 inch goes to the vent on the shelf behind the folding salon sofa bed.
IF I were you randerson I would take the duct off the side that is going to the guest stateroom and see if it is crimped or kinked leaving the unit. Especially since you said the air increases if you partially close off the flow in the master. There is an inner duct you can't feel unless you disconnect it. The insulation surrounding it made the pathway impossible to check without disconnecting. (sorry for the long ramble all)