40 sedan bridge forum

ZZ13 said:
There are spade connections on each of the two wires coming from the pump. One for power and one for ground. Sounds like the power wire to your pump is disconnected. That would explain your problem.
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Problem is I can’t find where the other side plugs in..I looked for about an hour...had my wife get up under there as well...no luck. I was hoping someone had a pic or could show me where to look.
 
scooper321 said:
Shenanigans is running quite well and we are still getting acquainted. Ever since survey, I’ve known about a flaky port oil pressure gauge. I don’t expect these old analog gauges to be spot on, but I would like them to behave. Mine usually reads 0 or so until you drive the throttles up to speed (say, 1500rpm or so). Then it pops up to somewhat match the starboard gauge. So I figure it’s just getting stuck at the start, like a lot of these gauges do. However, on the run on Friday, at plane, the gauge was bouncing all over. Mostly in the low range, around 10-20. Then it dropped to 0. The engines ran fine and the temps stayed true so i concluded it’s just the gauge. But I makes me nervous. Especially because when I went to dock, that engine stalled twice. Now that may be a different issue because the port engine idles rough at no throttle, but again, just trying to assemble all the info.

So my question is about the gauge. Do these symptoms sound like just a bad ground on the gauge?
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I had the exact same symptoms. Bouncy oil gauge for a while then hard zero. Checked gauge on engine and all was good. Found the connection at the oil pressure sender had vibrated off over time. Reconnected it and rock solid function now. Sender is on the port side of the engine just in front of the heat exchanger.
 
Looking for some help. Just picked up a 2003 40 Sedan Bridge and I have no stereo sound outside. It has the Clarion XMD1 that the boat came with. Is there a selector to switch or something wrong? Thanks.
 
KCCaptain said:
Looking for some help. Just picked up a 2003 40 Sedan Bridge and I have no stereo sound outside. It has the Clarion XMD1 that the boat came with. Is there a selector to switch or something wrong? Thanks.
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Outside sound comes from the amp under the port sofa. If you have zero sound in any outside speaker, including sub woofer, there’s something amiss with the amp or the connection to it. Check its’ power. Check the RCA jacks from the XMD1 to the amp (there’s only one pair). And make sure the zone on the Clarion is enabled. (Might want to do that first). I think it’s the “front” zone. Also, check and see that you have continuity from the blue wire out of the XMD1 to the amp. That’s the control signal to turn the amp on.

Once you get it working, rip out the XMD1 and replace it. It has no Bluetooth and no way to add it. A cheap replacement is an XMD3 with a Fusion BT adapter. Or, get a JL or Fusion head unit. I can’t function without streaming via Spotify.

Not a great pic, because I’m across the cabin. Just waiting out a t storm listening to Zac Brown and the thunder.
CFFE6AC3-4C34-4CF4-82AE-21ACF5DE015B.jpeg
 
scooper321 said:
Outside sound comes from the amp under the port sofa. If you have zero sound in any outside speaker, including sub woofer, there’s something amiss with the amp or the connection to it. Check its’ power. Check the RCA jacks from the XMD1 to the amp (there’s only one pair). And make sure the zone on the Clarion is enabled. (Might want to do that first). I think it’s the “front” zone. Also, check and see that you have continuity from the blue wire out of the XMD1 to the amp. That’s the control signal to turn the amp on.

Once you get it working, rip out the XMD1 and replace it. It has no Bluetooth and no way to add it. A cheap replacement is an XMD3 with a Fusion BT adapter. Or, get a JL or Fusion head unit. I can’t function without streaming via Spotify.

Not a great pic, because I’m across the cabin. Just waiting out a t storm listening to Zac Brown and the thunder.
View attachment 70377
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Great info thank you. I will check it out.
 
ZZ13 said:
I had the exact same symptoms. Bouncy oil gauge for a while then hard zero. Checked gauge on engine and all was good. Found the connection at the oil pressure sender had vibrated off over time. Reconnected it and rock solid function now. Sender is on the port side of the engine just in front of the heat exchanger.
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Checked that this AM. “Appears” to be on snug. I’ll clean and check the gauge connections when I get back to port.
 
scooper321 said:
Checked that this AM. “Appears” to be on snug. I’ll clean and check the gauge connections when I get back to port.
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You could swap the senders between engines and see if the problem stays with the engine or sender. That's a cheap, easy test.
 
Hello guys long time no chat sorry.
I've been working on my spring to do list and got to seal replacement on the dripless.
Been trying to bust loose the bolts on the trany/prop shaft flanges to no avail.
Super tight, can anyone tell me if the trany flang is threaded and the nut behind it is a jam nut. Or are both flanges just drilled and its a standard nut and bolt setup?
I my have to use some heat next. Thanks
 
DEY OFF said:
Hello guys long time no chat sorry.
I've been working on my spring to do list and got to seal replacement on the dripless.
Been trying to bust loose the bolts on the trany/prop shaft flanges to no avail.
Super tight, can anyone tell me if the trany flang is threaded and the nut behind it is a jam nut. Or are both flanges just drilled and its a standard nut and bolt setup?
I my have to use some heat next. Thanks
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Oops sorry i forgot to say this is on a "03" Cummings set up.
 
Happy Memorial Day!
Thanks to all our veterans!

I need help replacing the alert sensor panel, the panel that alerts you when a pump starts up or temp or pressure issues. Someone hit the test switch with their foot!
Thanks
 
ZZ13 said:
You could swap the senders between engines and see if the problem stays with the engine or sender. That's a cheap, easy test.
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I may have to try that. Debating whether that or swapping the gauges on the dash is easier. At this point, both seem like reasonable next steps.
 
tdschafer said:
Or you could just swap the wires behind the gauges if you have enough slack.
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True. Either way the gauges have to come out to access the wires. And what if just swapping the wires fixes everything? Then my oil pressure gauges are on the wrong sides! Lol!
 
Three questions hopefully someone will have some insight into:

1. The shocks to my engine hatch door in the cockpit are shot. Does anyone know of a replacement for them?
2. My windless control switch at the helm is only working to let the anchor down. I can't bring it back up from the helm. Luckily both foot pedals on the bow work, or else I'd still be anchored out in the river. It worked fine when I put the boat away last fall. Faulty switch, or something else?
3. and most importantly... the pitcher for my blender is leaking. The factory blender still works great. But now when I make mudslides, it slowly drips out the bottom. I'd prefer to get a replacement pitcher thing rather than get a new bulky blender that takes up more precious space. Any ideas where to get a replacement?
 
On the Reel said:
Need help!
How do you get to the raw water pump on the starboard engine!??!!
I just noticed it’s location!
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Over the top as stated, but I’ve not done it that way. I change the impeller at the same time I service the aftercooler, once every 3 years +/-. When the port side after cooler is off, it’s not bad to crawl in behind. Also have to pull off the exhaust hose from the mixer to the muffler, and that also allows a peek at the outlet side of the turbo with a mirror.
 
my3sons said:
Over the top as stated, but I’ve not done it that way. I change the impeller at the same time I service the aftercooler, once every 3 years +/-. When the port side after cooler is off, it’s not bad to crawl in behind. Also have to pull off the exhaust hose from the mixer to the muffler, and that also allows a peek at the outlet side of the turbo with a mirror.
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Mark, in the Cummins I can do the port impeller pretty easy by removing the air pipe from the aftercooler to the grid heater and pushing the throttle all the way forward. It's one handed, put pretty easy as long as you have the extraction tool for Sherwood pumps, or have SMX pumps from Tony.

Original poster has gas engines according to his profile. I suspect they are the forward mounted pumps on starboard side of engine like most mercruiser, but not 100% sure.
 
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