techmitch
Well-Known Member
- May 1, 2008
- 8,396
- Boat Info
- 1999 270 DA
- Engines
- Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
Excellent catch/post. Lol You related to Gary?Your vacuflush generator blew an engine on your boat?
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Excellent catch/post. Lol You related to Gary?Your vacuflush generator blew an engine on your boat?
There are spade connections on each of the two wires coming from the pump. One for power and one for ground. Sounds like the power wire to your pump is disconnected. That would explain your problem.
I had the exact same symptoms. Bouncy oil gauge for a while then hard zero. Checked gauge on engine and all was good. Found the connection at the oil pressure sender had vibrated off over time. Reconnected it and rock solid function now. Sender is on the port side of the engine just in front of the heat exchanger.Shenanigans is running quite well and we are still getting acquainted. Ever since survey, I’ve known about a flaky port oil pressure gauge. I don’t expect these old analog gauges to be spot on, but I would like them to behave. Mine usually reads 0 or so until you drive the throttles up to speed (say, 1500rpm or so). Then it pops up to somewhat match the starboard gauge. So I figure it’s just getting stuck at the start, like a lot of these gauges do. However, on the run on Friday, at plane, the gauge was bouncing all over. Mostly in the low range, around 10-20. Then it dropped to 0. The engines ran fine and the temps stayed true so i concluded it’s just the gauge. But I makes me nervous. Especially because when I went to dock, that engine stalled twice. Now that may be a different issue because the port engine idles rough at no throttle, but again, just trying to assemble all the info.
So my question is about the gauge. Do these symptoms sound like just a bad ground on the gauge?
Outside sound comes from the amp under the port sofa. If you have zero sound in any outside speaker, including sub woofer, there’s something amiss with the amp or the connection to it. Check its’ power. Check the RCA jacks from the XMD1 to the amp (there’s only one pair). And make sure the zone on the Clarion is enabled. (Might want to do that first). I think it’s the “front” zone. Also, check and see that you have continuity from the blue wire out of the XMD1 to the amp. That’s the control signal to turn the amp on.Looking for some help. Just picked up a 2003 40 Sedan Bridge and I have no stereo sound outside. It has the Clarion XMD1 that the boat came with. Is there a selector to switch or something wrong? Thanks.
Outside sound comes from the amp under the port sofa. If you have zero sound in any outside speaker, including sub woofer, there’s something amiss with the amp or the connection to it. Check its’ power. Check the RCA jacks from the XMD1 to the amp (there’s only one pair). And make sure the zone on the Clarion is enabled. (Might want to do that first). I think it’s the “front” zone. Also, check and see that you have continuity from the blue wire out of the XMD1 to the amp. That’s the control signal to turn the amp on.
Once you get it working, rip out the XMD1 and replace it. It has no Bluetooth and no way to add it. A cheap replacement is an XMD3 with a Fusion BT adapter. Or, get a JL or Fusion head unit. I can’t function without streaming via Spotify.
Not a great pic, because I’m across the cabin. Just waiting out a t storm listening to Zac Brown and the thunder.
View attachment 70377
I had the exact same symptoms. Bouncy oil gauge for a while then hard zero. Checked gauge on engine and all was good. Found the connection at the oil pressure sender had vibrated off over time. Reconnected it and rock solid function now. Sender is on the port side of the engine just in front of the heat exchanger.
You could swap the senders between engines and see if the problem stays with the engine or sender. That's a cheap, easy test.Checked that this AM. “Appears” to be on snug. I’ll clean and check the gauge connections when I get back to port.
Hello guys long time no chat sorry.
I've been working on my spring to do list and got to seal replacement on the dripless.
Been trying to bust loose the bolts on the trany/prop shaft flanges to no avail.
Super tight, can anyone tell me if the trany flang is threaded and the nut behind it is a jam nut. Or are both flanges just drilled and its a standard nut and bolt setup?
I my have to use some heat next. Thanks
You could swap the senders between engines and see if the problem stays with the engine or sender. That's a cheap, easy test.
Or you could just swap the wires behind the gauges if you have enough slack.I may have to try that. Debating whether that or swapping the gauges on the dash is easier. At this point, both seem like reasonable next steps.
Or you could just swap the wires behind the gauges if you have enough slack.
Need help!
How do you get to the raw water pump on the starboard engine!??!!
I just noticed it’s location!
Need help!
How do you get to the raw water pump on the starboard engine!??!!
I just noticed it’s location!
Mark, in the Cummins I can do the port impeller pretty easy by removing the air pipe from the aftercooler to the grid heater and pushing the throttle all the way forward. It's one handed, put pretty easy as long as you have the extraction tool for Sherwood pumps, or have SMX pumps from Tony.Over the top as stated, but I’ve not done it that way. I change the impeller at the same time I service the aftercooler, once every 3 years +/-. When the port side after cooler is off, it’s not bad to crawl in behind. Also have to pull off the exhaust hose from the mixer to the muffler, and that also allows a peek at the outlet side of the turbo with a mirror.