40 sedan bridge forum

Hi all, I have a thru hull with a wheel in the center. Is this just for speed or depth and speed? I have a second transducer on the port side. I want to take out the paddle wheel and install a B 60 Garmin unit in preparation for changing the electronics this summer. How difficult is it to remove this and install the new one. Thanks, Greg
The paddle wheel transducer does both speed and water temp. I'll be impressed if either of them are working. The other one is depth only.
 
I replaced my wheel transducer that did speed and temp with a NMEA unit that did all three. Speed thru water depth and temp.
Then it can be shared along the network. It required me cutting a larger hole. Check the model number of the old transducer with the new one you wish to replace.
 
I replaced my wheel transducer that did speed and temp with a NMEA unit that did all three. Speed thru water depth and temp.
Then it can be shared along the network. It required me cutting a larger hole. Check the model number of the old transducer with the new one you wish to replace.
Thank, that's what I thought. Neither work. And yes It is a larger hole. The new one is going to be just for the depth and fish finder on the new electronics. How hard was it to get out and put the other in. Also was it solid fiberglass at the transducer area of the hull or was it cored? Thanks, Greg
 
I replaced my wheel transducer that did speed and temp with a NMEA unit that did all three. Speed thru water depth and temp.
Then it can be shared along the network. It required me cutting a larger hole. Check the model number of the old transducer with the new one you wish to replace.
Thanks, I will see if I have the #. Maybe we will see you on the bay. Greg
 
Mine was crazy difficult to remove. It was a cored hull and I think they used 5200 at the factory to install it. What I did was get a new very good quality hole saw. Stuck a piece of wood into the hole and cut it off flush from the bottom.
The used the wood to start the drill bit that ran the hole saw through. I don’t drink or I would have done 3 shots after measuring 3-5 times to make sure I was not hitting anything else. Then I cleaned off the plastic parts and used 4200 on the new transducer.
Prob do 4 more shots of whiskey the day I splashed it. I stared like a mad man being afraid it would leak but never did a single drop. Good luck.
 
So many of you removed the cockpit ice maker and repurposed that area as storage. I'd like to repurpose that as a fridge. Can anyone tell me what fridge fits in that space? Is "widening" the opening needed?
I replaced my old cockpit fridge for a shiny new Cruise 49 Elegance, Silver, AC/DC, refrigerator with freezer compartment, Silver door, internal mounting system (no flange necessary), customizable door panel, LED interior light. Available from Great Water Marine Systems 14 Arsene Way, Fairhaven, MA 02719 for ~$900 inc shipping... it's AC and DC, but I never use(d) the DC.
 

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Has anyone accessed the senders in the fresh water tank? My fresh water tank level is inop, it will test but not show level. I've poked around a bit looking for it, but in typical SR fashion it's buried.
 
Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts. My guest head system does not seem to be working. Here are symptoms. I turn on "Head Systems", the Master Head starts to create vacuum, the lights on both heads turn on. The guest head does not appear to be pulling vacuum, its almost like the vacuflush isnt powered on. Any thoughts on what it could be? Hoping i missed something simple.
 
Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts. My guest head system does not seem to be working. Here are symptoms. I turn on "Head Systems", the Master Head starts to create vacuum, the lights on both heads turn on. The guest head does not appear to be pulling vacuum, its almost like the vacuflush isnt powered on. Any thoughts on what it could be? Hoping i missed something simple.

Did you check to see if the motor on the vacuum generator has power? If it does, then it could possibly be a bad motor.

Also, possible bad vacuum switch on the generator.
 
Wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts. My guest head system does not seem to be working. Here are symptoms. I turn on "Head Systems", the Master Head starts to create vacuum, the lights on both heads turn on. The guest head does not appear to be pulling vacuum, its almost like the vacuflush isnt powered on. Any thoughts on what it could be? Hoping i missed something simple.

This happened to me last year. Assuming there isn't a clog in the line, I would check the accumulator tank vacuum switch on the end of the white tank under the starboard bunk in the guest stateroom. Try jumping the two terminals on the switch. If the pump powers on, you have a bad switch. The good news is that it is a fairly easy fix.
 
I replaced my old cockpit fridge for a shiny new Cruise 49 Elegance, Silver, AC/DC, refrigerator with freezer compartment, Silver door, internal mounting system (no flange necessary), customizable door panel, LED interior light. Available from Great Water Marine Systems 14 Arsene Way, Fairhaven, MA 02719 for ~$900 inc shipping... it's AC and DC, but I never use(d) the DC.

Great advice (and thanks for the manual). I'll definitely look into this one. That's a better price and having done a fridge retro-fit in my prior 320, I don't really want to deal with one that needs flanges, etc. I want plug and play (literally), if possible. LOL
 
I need to replace the boat logo on my gelcoat any ideas what is the best way to remove an existing one ?
 
I need to replace the boat logo on my gelcoat any ideas what is the best way to remove an existing one ?
In a word, carefully... but to help, use a hair dryer or heat gun on its lowest setting (and increase heat as necessary)... you don’t want to overheat the gelcoat, just loosen the old vinyl so you can peel it off or scrape it off with a plastic spreader... goof off or plain old acetone should get rid of any residue... then compound and/or polish if the areas around the old decals has faded?... good luck... don’t rush it and all will be well!
 
I need to replace the boat logo on my gelcoat any ideas what is the best way to remove an existing one ?
Are you talking about flat vinyl lettering, or a raised SR Emblem with the double sided tape?

Vinyl removes nicely with minimal heat. Too much heat tends to leave the glue on the boat, making cleanup that much more of a challenge. It really is a try it, and experiment approach.

If you are removig something stuck with double sided tape, look at cutting it off with a fine string. A few layers of dental floss can work here. Use it as a saw between the hull and object. Should be soft enough not to damage hull finish.

Acetone is a good cleanup for both. Good luck!
 
So my cockpit and bridge speakers were not Clarion, as originally thought. They were Panasonic. Don’t know if they were original or not. Doesn’t matter because now they are JL MX650s.

6D30C0A1-A2AF-4E8E-9609-CC3E3B13ECAC.jpeg


What was original was the Clarion subwoofer on the bridge. It owed me nothing! Lol.
88761315-2EB4-40A1-ABF6-5E756E3EF737.jpeg


It’s also a JL now. I put the LED-enabled speakers and sub on the bridge, to add some additional bridge lighting.

It sounds pretty good, so the Clarion amp seems to be ok for now. But running the Fusion RA70, I realized that with the stock wiring setup I have no control over the subwoofer (it’s split off the outside zone). The RA70 lets me separate the sub and run it to the amp independently. So that’s now on my list of To Do’s.
 
So my cockpit and bridge speakers were not Clarion, as originally thought. They were Panasonic. Don’t know if they were original or not. Doesn’t matter because now they are JL MX650s.

View attachment 70064

What was original was the Clarion subwoofer on the bridge. It owed me nothing! Lol.
View attachment 70065

It’s also a JL now. I put the LED-enabled speakers and sub on the bridge, to add some additional bridge lighting.

It sounds pretty good, so the Clarion amp seems to be ok for now. But running the Fusion RA70, I realized that with the stock wiring setup I have no control over the subwoofer (it’s split off the outside zone). The RA70 lets me separate the sub and run it to the amp independently. So that’s now on my list of To Do’s.
I still use the stock Clarion 4204 amp. It has four channels. Two of the channels go to the four outdoor speakers and the other two channels are bridged together for the subwoofer. When I installed a new head unit I simply removed the rca y adapter at the amp and ran a new rca cable from the bridged channel connector to the subwoofer rca connector on the head unit. So I can now control the subwoofer oompf from the head unit.
 
I just replaced the bulbs, it was a pretty easy process. A tip...if you dont already have a good way to get the light housings down to replace bulbs, try the metal end of a tape measure...it slides right in there and a with a little tug comes right out.

Here are the bulbs i bought. (all from Marinebeam)

42mm (1-11/16") Festoon LED Bulb 6-LED Power Cluster (for the closet lights)
(Output Color: Warm White)
FS-42-06-WW X 4

42mm (1-11/16") Festoon LED Bulb 6-LED Power Cluster
(For all the Cockpit, Bridge and Bridge Steps Lights)
(Output Color: Blue)
FS-42-06-BLU X 9 (you only need 5 I bought extras)

9-LED Back Pin G4 SMD Power Cluster Novi (BP-G4-09X)
(These are for all the lights indoors except under the cabinets)
(Output Color: Warm White)
BP-G4-09X-WW X 41

9-LED Back Pin G4 SMD Power Cluster Novi (BP-G4-09X)
(i bought these thinking I may want blue ones in the cockpit ceiling...i went with white)
(Output Color: Blue)
BP-G4-09X-BLU X 4

Mini Waterproof G4 LED Bulb
(for the under cabinet light)
TW-G4-COB-1.5W X 2

Followed this list and had several issues with my 2000DB.

1) The cockpit and head fixtures (8 leds) are side post not back post. Had to order SP-G4-09X-WW for these.

2) All the closet Festoons needed 42mm leds. They are not held in the “U” clamps on each side but between posts. The 37mm were too short. FS-42-06-WW for these.

Had a few fixtures that had broken spring tabs but otherwise the change went quickly. Only got bit twice by the springs. Ouch! Lol.

The salon and especially the berths are so much brighter!

One of the reading lights in the main berth is inop. Any hints on where to start troubleshooting???
 
I still use the stock Clarion 4204 amp. It has four channels. Two of the channels go to the four outdoor speakers and the other two channels are bridged together for the subwoofer. When I installed a new head unit I simply removed the rca y adapter at the amp and ran a new rca cable from the bridged channel connector to the subwoofer rca connector on the head unit. So I can now control the subwoofer oompf from the head unit.

Yep. That’s my next step - to remove the Y and drive the amp directly. And reconfigure the amp. I’ve got the manual so I know what to do. Just need the time to pull the sofa. This will wait for a rainy day... as it is, it sounds great on the bridge anyway!
 
“They” say the happiest 2 days of a boat owner’s life are the day he buys and the day he sells (but what do "they" know?!). It has never been the case for me. Yesterday marked the end of another chapter, as we said goodbye to our beloved SB400. Sold to the very first, serious, buyer who actually came to view her in person (although surveys and other closing details have dragged on a bit). We were at the top of the market (someone had to be) and, seemingly, deservedly so. Engines passed their surveys with flying colors, as did the hull and deck - the buyer’s surveyor described the survey days as "vacation days” for him.

I think those of you with 2003 boats will be pleased with the result, as the sale should keep your own resale values high. It sounds simple, but: look after your boat, use it, upgrade it, keep it clean and in excellent shape and you will be rewarded handsomely come sale time.

She served us well but, with 4 children, we simply outgrew her. Our search now intensifies for a Fairline Squadron 58 (as I return to my favored native UK brand). Yes, quite a jump! We will miss the “go anywhere” ability we had with the SB400 (we always found a slip somewhere on our travels), but look forward to more space and cruising further afield (and having a laundry room to dry the wet bathing suits!).

I will stay tuned to this great forum from time-to-time, in case I can help with any questions. I send sincere thanks to the entire Club Sea Ray brain trust, who had a hand in all the improvements I made along the way. Feel free to PM me at any time. Happy boating one and all!

Cheers,
Simon
 

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