220 DA thread

The throttle control at the helm is really dated and has seen better days. I'd like to upgrade to the new 4000 series from mercruiser pictured below. Is this a simple swap out?

3188_reg.jpg
 
Anyone know what size/length control cables are used in our boats?

And...

What length are the trim pump to transom (inside) hydraulic hoses we have?

Thanks!!
 
Re: 220 DA thread-Height

Anybody know the height of their 220da, from Keel to the Top of the Windshield?
THe Manual says its 6 foot 9inches... but I measured, its more like 7 foot 9 inches... Does that sound right to you?

thanks!
-Sean
 
I just came accross this 1991 220DA brochure on Ebay......thought you guys might get a kick out of it.

Screen shot 2011-09-10 at 9.23.32 AM.jpg
 
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Very cool. If anyone is interrested, I have the original Brochure from my 89 220 DA. Will post if anyone is interrested. I have all the original books, manuels etc. that came with the boat new. Everyone that has owned mine prior has done a nice job of passing along. The original owners manuel, parts manuel are available for download at Sea Ray.
 
I'm thinking of adding a quick oil change adapter/hose, where the hose gets routed out the bilge exit for oil changes. Has anyone added this on a 220DA with a 5.7. I haven't been under the engine in a while, and would like to get a heads-up on how difficult this is to add to this particular boat. I know one major problem will be an oil drain plug that won't budge. I have no idea how long it's been since that plug has been removed. The prior owner used the "thru dipstick" method of changing oil, as I do. Here is an example, although I'd need one for an older engine: http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?pnumber=MPI3080380&mfg=MPI&mfgno=308-0380&desc=GM%20Metric%20Easy%20Oil%20Drain%20Kit
 
It shouldnt be to hard. I added one when I replaced the engine, was easy then. BTW the crimp on the quick change hose was slightly to large to fit out the transom drain plug so I have to use a piece of clear tube to feed from the outside through the drain plug opening and then on the threads of the quick change hose after the cap is removed, have found this really easier as the drain plug opening from inside the boat is not very easy to get to. It is easy to get to the clear hose, connect to the quick change nose and then lay it below the engine pan to drain. Works well. I would recomend this as it drains all the oil from the engine where pumping through the dip stick leaves some in the bottom of the pan.
I don't think the drain plug should be a problem to remove.
Good luck with this project.
 
Thanks for the info. Nice to know a person with the same exact year boat and size engine installed this system. Also, thanks for the tip on the clear tubing. Good to know in advance.

Funny, I was at Costco last week and saw a nice inspection camera system for $150.00. I was trying to think up uses to justify the purchase (especially for the wife) and this would be a perfect use for it. Seeing exactly where the drain plug is and it's condition. Might have to get that. Definitely a "cool tool".
 
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I was wondering if anybody has replaced their original mercruiser throttle control and still has the old one. I need a few small parts to fix my original and would be willing to buy one from someone. The main parts I need dont effect the function, I need the springs and small parts under the top cap for the lock out push button and the square trim cover for the base behind the lever. Please let me know if anyone may have a unit they want to get rid of.
Bill collector21@cox.net
 
Hi guys

Have anybody replaced the wiper motor?
It is reachable from the head. If you remove the light in the roof, you can get the motor.
But there is just not room enough to pull the motor out.
Do you have any ideas how to remove it.
I have a new similar motor I need to install

Regards
Thomas
 
Sorry, never replaced the motor on the wiper. My 220 is for sale in case anyone is interested...
 
I developed a leak in the cabin last season, below the starboard window, just forward of the head wall. As luck would have it, I had a nice digital camera stored on that shelf. Luckily, I disassembled the camera, and left it in my boiler room for three days, and it came back to life.

Anyway, the leak seems to be behind the fabric headliner. Anyone experience a leak in the same location. I guess the thing to do would be to re-seal the starboard window, and possibly the bow rail mount???
 
Are you able to have someone outside the boat hit it with the water hose while you search for the leak? I suspected the bow rails were starting to leak on my 220. Its a lot of years of pushing/pulling on the rails.
 
The problem is, since it's behind the headliner (or whatever you call it on a boat) I don't think I can pinpoint the entry point. Pulling up the headliner in that area would be the answer, but I'm trying to avoid that. I guess I'll see how easy re-bedding the window is and do that, as well as re-bedding the bow rail. Just thinking about this is helping me think the boating season is right around the corner!
 
Anyone have experience rebulding the back bench? Mine finally gave out this past summer so thats spring project #1 for me. Any words of wisdom?
 
Danny Troy said:
If you need to replace the vinyl, Veada is a good source. I was able to closely match the colors needed. Make sure you get some sample swatches, since it's hard to tell from the colors display on their website....
http://veada.com/product/11-Marine-...the-Running-Yard-54-Wide-Boat-Upholstery.html
Click to expand...

Thanks but I was actually referring to the frame itself. The wood rotted and the legs broke off after a cannonball off of it on a hot summer day after a few cocktails.
 
LetsRock said:
Thanks but I was actually referring to the frame itself. The wood rotted and the legs broke off after a cannonball off of it on a hot summer day after a few cocktails.
Click to expand...
So the vinyl is still good, but you need the rest. It shouldn't be too hard, once you remove the existing vinyl from the frame. It's probably just a piece of 3/4" marine grade plywood with some added edges. If the hinge is damaged that may be a challenge to find new, but a Google search will probably get you one.

So far my seat is holding up, but I haven't done a cannonball in about 10 years or so. My idea of excitement is jumping off my swim platform to the water a few inches below it!
 
Can anyone tell me the height of the legs under the rear fold down seat from where legs mount to the floor? Also, has anyone had any luck with redoing their gauge panel? Would anyone happen to have any original legs they might want to sell? I'm looking for the U-Shaped legs that require 2 hinges for each leg.

Thanks in advance.

Rob
 
I rebuilt my back bench. The upholstery guy used PVC board. The PVC Board is flimsier than Plywood so I built 8 single leg supports out of PVC and Galvanized Flange Adapters similar to someone else here in the Forum. The only problem is access to the motor hatch is a pain because I can no longer just fold up the seat. The seat looks good and definitely is comfortable.
 
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