220 DA thread

I was realy hopping you wouldn't say that. The platform I found is 88x24 never used, only $100.00. This guy selling it wanted a bigger one on his new boat so he replaced it. Do you think I can cut 15" out of the middle and put it back together some how?
 
1990 220 Da Rear Seat MOD.

I have recently purchased a 1990 Sea Ray 220 DA. I wanted to know if anyone has a good idea to modify the rear seat for better access to the engine hatch.

Thanks from the killer!
 
Re: 1990 220 Da Rear Seat MOD.

You lift the backrest up and fold the bottom seat up into it.

I have recently purchased a 1990 Sea Ray 220 DA. I wanted to know if anyone has a good idea to modify the rear seat for better access to the engine hatch.

Thanks from the killer!
 
I was realy hopping you wouldn't say that. The platform I found is 88x24 never used, only $100.00. This guy selling it wanted a bigger one on his new boat so he replaced it. Do you think I can cut 15" out of the middle and put it back together some how?
I really think I would pass on that. It would be a lot of work to make it fit correctly. The 88" is enough of a problem, but if you were good with fiberglass it's doable. The 24" is what worries me, since I believe most aftermarket swim platforms are made to install under the existing platform, as I did with mine. You might be able to use beams bolted to the existing platform, and bolt the new platform on top of that. You will then have to use 2 or 4 stainless tube supports to the transom. It would be an interesting project, if you have the time and patience to tackle it. Personally, I'd add another 200.00 and buy a piece of 3/4" Starboard. You'll have enough left over for other small projects, and you can make it fit like a glove. That said, it's still not the easiest project in the world to do on the boat, but a heck of a lot cheaper than spending $1800.00 on a custom job from one of the swim platform makers.
 
Here is what I was thinking after measuring last night. There is a 3-4" surface right below the rub rail in the back of the boat. I might be able to mount it right there. It already has 4 support poles but they might be to short. I will replace them with longer, SS ones. 88" goes out to the edge of the boat. Is this going to pose a problem while turning?
 
Yes, that might work OK, but you will have a platform that is very wide and not so long. I don't think you will have a problem with turns, since it won't be out that far. I store a rigid kayak on my platform and it hits the waves once and a while while turning, but it's no big deal. If you're lucky, the tubes you have will be long enough. Since you have 4 you will have good support, even though they don't reach to the lower part of the transom. Please post some photos if you decide to go with this platform.
 
I'm starting to feel the need for a larger/wider boat also. Now is the time to sell, and you should sell quickly at that price. I'd like a lot more $$$ for mine, but I wouldn't get what I should for all the upgrades. I'd like something around 28-29 feet with single screw and 10 foot beam. Might have to wait till next year though.
 
That boat looks super clean, and it looks like a freshwater boat. I wonder about the "330hp" engine. Was a large block available in the 220? He might have made a mistake on that hp rating.
 
Houston I have a problem!!!

Looks like I have a fuel tank leak. At least thats what I think it is. Under the engine hatch forward of the engine is the fuel tank. The tank is exposed from the top (and always has been since I bought it) In between the aft wall of tank and bulkhead that separates the tank and engine there is a small gap. I saw some liquid waaaaaay at the bottom and smelled like gas FAINTLY. I wedged a dock line in there while pushing it down with a screw driver to absorb some for a better sniff. Pulled the dock line out, boom GAS!! CRAP!! I haven't used the boat in about 7 months.

Looks like the original fuel tank. Anyone replace their fuel tank yet? Whats involved?

After pulling drive, engine, disconnecting all the hoses leading to the tank, then what???

Cut out the rear fuel tank bulk head? Does it slide aft and fit through engine hatch?

Oh boy.....this sucks!!!
 
That sucks........

On mine, I have access in the aft cabin. There is a piece that can be unscrewed and the tank should (should, lol) come out thru the aft acabin.
 
H2ONUT,

I really doubt that the fuel tank can come out thru the cabin. Even if I could get it up into the aft cabin, I wouldn't be able to take it out of the aft cabin into the main cabin and out the door. Looks like the tank is too big to fit through those areas. Or am I wrong? Guess I'll have to take a look under the aft cabin cushions and see what I find. Anyone know the dimensions of the tank?
 
So I removed the aft cabin center floor. Floor was held down with stainless screws all around. There is a bracket at the aft section of floor that you can't see until you pull the floor out but there are 2 screws at the very back of floor very close to back wall almost tucked under the rear wall fabric.

The tank measures 9 1/4" X 26" X 58 1/2". Keep in mind this is measuring while tank is still in boat.

Mark, you may be right. Since the tank is only 9 inches high, I may be able to pull it out through aft cabin, then out of main cabin. This will be another project for another day. I'll finish the bilge pump upgrade and through hull replacements first then tackle the tank.

Whats a fuel tank gonna cost me, roughly?
 
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Wonder if I should try running engine again and check for leaks at the fuel/water separator, and pickup lines first? Kinda scary just thinking about starting engine with a fuel leak.
 
Not sure on the cost. Is there a name on the tank? My guess would be $300 + for a tank. Maybe more if there isn't an aftermarket drop in replacement.
 
Soak up as much as possible. Throw a little Dawn dish soap in there to break it up also.
 
Well, I wimped out in regards to starting the engine. Just couldn't take that risk.

Instead, I started to take the tank out. I disconnected all 3 hoses. Removed the brackets holding the tank down in the aft cabin area. Tried lifting the tank but there isn't enough room too lift. Tank hits the aft cabin rear wall/bulkhead. There are screws at the top of this wall so I guess it comes out. Im in the process of removing everything on the engine side of this bulkhead.

I keep at it in a few days.
 
Sorry to hear it wasn't or isn't going to be easy. I'd be curious to see some pics if you take any.
 
Can any one tell me what kink of fluid they use in their power trim pump? I have heard everything from ATF, power stearing fluid, and Motor oil 10w30.
 

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