220 DA thread

Re: Outdrive / Planing

Bl0bby said:
Hi all:
I was wondering if anyone has advice for me on getting up on plane. Most of the time when we're trying to get up speed, our wake is really "frothy" and it doesn't feel like the propeller is really getting any bite. Once or twice we've managed to get the wake looking right and the speed up, but mostly it just doesn't get there. All I'm doing is keeping the outdrive all the way down and flooring it; it never seems to want to get much over 4000 rpm. As you can tell, I have no idea of what I should be doing! I know the outdrive is just overdue for a 2-yearly service; could that be the cause? I don't know if they can slip like a clutch or if they just fail outright. Any advice appreciated - though I'm guessing the best thing would be the 5L engine!
Thanks,
Bobby
Click to expand...


Do you trailer frequently or are you in a slip? The reason I ask, is I'm wondering if you have marine growth on the bottom?

Also, what it the condition of your propeller? Any Chips, dings or defects will be less efficient and unnecessary O/D damage/wear.

If you haven't had the O/D service in 2 years, it's overdue.
 
Re: Outdrive / Planing

Nehalennia said:
Do you trailer frequently or are you in a slip? The reason I ask, is I'm wondering if you have marine growth on the bottom?

Also, what it the condition of your propeller? Any Chips, dings or defects will be less efficient and unnecessary O/D damage/wear.

If you haven't had the O/D service in 2 years, it's overdue.
Click to expand...

I'm in a boatel, so the bottom is clean. The propeller seems ok to me, but I'll check it out closer this weekend. I was hoping to wait until the end of the season to get the outdrive service done with the winterizing, but if it could be the cause of lost power then I'll do it now.
Thanks for your reply!
Bobby
 
Hi all:
I was wondering if anyone has advice for me on getting up on plane. Most of the time when we're trying to get up speed, our wake is really "frothy" and it doesn't feel like the propeller is really getting any bite. Once or twice we've managed to get the wake looking right and the speed up, but mostly it just doesn't get there. All I'm doing is keeping the outdrive all the way down and flooring it; it never seems to want to get much over 4000 rpm. As you can tell, I have no idea of what I should be doing! I know the outdrive is just overdue for a 2-yearly service; could that be the cause? I don't know if they can slip like a clutch or if they just fail outright. Any advice appreciated - though I'm guessing the best thing would be the 5L engine!
Thanks,
Bobby
Click to expand...

Bobby

I'm assuming you have alpha 1. Your WOT is about right, ( you could get a bit more rpm) and should be able to get on plane no problem at wot within 10 seconds. If you have tabs, dump em too. When the boat is on plane, bring up the tabs. You should not need the tabs while on plane unless your listing then adjust accordingly.

The drive service is just preventative maintenance. It shouldn't prevent from getting on plane. If the drive gears were slipping, you would hear/feel it. Get the service done anyway though.

You may want to consider prop slip. Mark the prop/hub with ONE straight line from hum ( the rubber center part ) to the outside. Take it for a spin on the water. If the hub is spun, then thats your problem.

The "frothyness" of the water while on plane depends on the waters your boating in, speed, and attitude (bow high or low). While on plane, the bow should just below the horizon. Anyhow. Let us know what you find.

PS JUST got back not 5 min ago from cruising the ICW and crabbing.

Luis
 
Re: Outdrive / Planing

Bl0bby said:
I'm in a boatel, so the bottom is clean. The propeller seems ok to me, but I'll check it out closer this weekend. I was hoping to wait until the end of the season to get the outdrive service done with the winterizing, but if it could be the cause of lost power then I'll do it now.
Thanks for your reply!
Bobby
Click to expand...

Is it an aluminum prop. I wonder if you are having your Prop hub spin? Usually they're all or nothing, but I have heard on a couple of occasions that they'll grab at lower RPMs but lose traction at higher loads.
 
I'll check the prop spin thing - it is aluminum, so that might be it.
Thanks for the tips!
Bobby
 
Got a leak just above the galley. Check out the pictures...

IMG_7217.jpg


IMG_7218.jpg


IMG_7220.jpg


IMG_7221.jpg


IMG_7222.jpg


The fabric just below the window is bone dry. The fabric damp almost all around the rail piece. It's really wet at the bow rail though. This is the ONLY area that is wet in the boat with the exception of a forward hatch leak.

Where do you think it's coming from?

Thanks.
 
Yep, remove the entire bow railing and re-bed with 5200.
 
It dosen't take long to do at all, took me and my son about 4 hours. And that was cutting rusted bolts and nuts.
 
RUSTED BOLTS!?!?

Umm...So I'm assuming those bolts are replaceable? I thought they were welded onto the rail.
 
Some of the wood on the opposite side of the rub rail was wet. replaced a 2 ft section that was easy to get to. I would have needed to remove the entire nose section of the aluminum part of the rub rail to remove the screws holding the wood on the inside. After I get better at docking, (hopefully by next year) I'll replace the rub rail and any wet wood behind it then. So a very nice thin bead was placed on top of the rub rail all the way around.

Next I removed one bow rail post at a time. Cleaned the surface with acetone. Filled the bolt hole and created a bed for the base with 4200. Hand tightened the post down. Not sure if I should torque it down while it's still wet or if wait till it's cured?

Did this to all the posts. Used only half a 10 oz tube for all of the above.

Any idea if I should tighten when wet or cured? THANKS!!
 
Poured really HARD last night for a few hours. Checked for leaks this morning and nothing, from the areas I worked on!

The forward hatch was leaking though. I removed it, scraped what looked like Silicone (it was clear and rubbery), cleaned all mating surfaces with acetone, then applied 4200. Hope fully this will take of that leak.

I still need to seal the shower sump. I'm in search of a spray sealant. That area is difficult to visualize to use epoxy.
 
There you go. I'll post more later... I've just been busy getting it up to my standards. Still needs more TLC before we can really start to enjoy it.

Things she needs:

TV
Generator
AC outlets FIXED
A/C needs Service
Head faucet needs replacement. Replaced
Shower sump needs to be sealed.
Rod holders...
IMG_7079_5.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi folks. New guy here. I just acquired a 1991 220DA and I am happy with its condition. Although it needs a couple of things, like seat reconditioning and, maybe it's just me, but I feel i should replace the Sterndrive. The engine is new, replaced a year ago with a 5.7 Mercruiser 250hp. I was wondering, would any of you recommend installing an after market? Should I? and which one? I will be sending pics on why I feel I should replace it. I have always wanted my own boat and I think I did the right thing, not to mention I got it for a song. Thanks, Joey
 
I need rod holders on my boat. I've been fishing a lot lately and is very uncomfortable to fish onboard. Any ideas on installing rod holders that will not obstruct the camper canvas or without boring huge holes into the fiberglass?

I was thinking of the clamp on type but hold be limited to 2, one on each side facing aft but clamped to the inside so I'm still able to close the camper.

Thanks....
 
Jruiz: Congratulations on your "new" boat. Had my '90 for 6 years and was very happy with it.

As far as replacing your outdrive, why do you feel the need for replacement? Has it been replaced in the past or is it original and you feel since you have a new engine, the outdrive should be replaced too?

Outdrives are expensive and if yours is running fine now, I'd leave it alone. However, if you go the replacement route, DO NOT buy a "rebuilt" unit. Buy a new unit. They're only a couple of $hundred more and carry a manufacturer's warranty.

I made that mistake, using a dealer in central MA who advertises quite a bit in "Boating" magazine. The unit lasted only 2 hours before it completely broke down. The dealer replaced it (I had to pay again for shipping) with another unit. That one lasted until the end of the season. When I pulled the boat from its slip, the bottom skeg had broken off. Inspection showed it had been broken previously and "Bondo'ed" or epoxied back on. When the lube oil was drained, a lot of metal showed up, indicating excessive wear in the lube pump. By then, the 60-day dealer warranty had expired and I had no recourse.

There's another dealer in NJ who sells new lower-end units and I had very good luck with them. PM me if you want further details.
 
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