180 Bow Rider Thread... Questions & Answers or just chat!

Boat weight.... Sea Ray reports my boat has a "dry weight" of 2400 lbs - is this with the engine? My first instinct is to say "no" but would like to hear from others. If so, how do I figure the full weight? Is there a listing of engine weights somewhere?
 
quailrunner said:
Boat weight.... Sea Ray reports my boat has a "dry weight" of 2400 lbs - is this with the engine? My first instinct is to say "no" but would like to hear from others. If so, how do I figure the full weight? Is there a listing of engine weights somewhere?
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Dry weight is dry weight, hull engine, seats, windscreen everything supplied minus oil, fuel, coolant, beer etc ...

I weighted in my boat w/ tailer and trailer alone and it registered, 1350K and 300 with almost no fuel but all the other fluids yet my engine is the 4 cyl so you at 1088 kilos dry seem to be on the money.
As for wet weight, it all depends ... :grin:
PS
I bought my boat and trailer from the US and the trailer despite the 1350K gross weight had no brakes.
I had to spend a mozza to put brakes on. How can you get away towing almost a ton and a half with no brakes? Is that legal? We can not tow anything over 700K w/no brakes.
 
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Like Marco said..........Dry is the entire boat without fluids.

My 175 has a dry weight of 2100#. My boat/trailer package came with brakes from the factory. There were 185's on the lot without brakes. I don't know the rules here either, but all I can say, is the brakes are a nice touch even pulling the lighter 175.
 
Just wondering if anyone has a bait board set-up & additional rod holders for fishing etc on a 180 ?

Also wondering if others have installed a second battery behind the existing one accessed via the engine compartment?

Before I blast away I thought I check what others have done.
cheers PP
 
Thanks for the info folks! That helps- I am looking into replacing our 11-yr-old 4Runner, and am looking at a vehicle that tows 3500# - if the boat is 2400# and the trailer is 600#, this looks doable even with several hundred pounds of gas and gear.

BTW- my 185 trailer has surge brakes - I think they are required on all single axle trailers above a certain weight as of some years ago in NYS, but the regulations differ. I used to own a 1989 SR Seville BR (175), which had no trailer brakes. That was not a fun towing experience.
 
The trailer that is orginal to my '88 Seville 180 does not have brakes. I think the requirement changed at some time here in California. Brake requirements vary by state. While I'm sure brakes will be in my future, my truck really doesn't have any issue stopping the boat/trailer combo. I haven't had much worry about towing though, I've been towing stuff for 20 years now. You just have to remember that you are towing a trailer and not driving your wifes Volvo :grin:
Travis..
 
Boji Fan said:
With the rising fuel prices anybody else glad to have a 3.0 ?
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I'll have to let you know after I can finally take mine out. I've had it for a month now and with the non-stop storms swelling up the river, I haven't even been able to give it a shake-down run. Either way, it makes perfect sense that as soon as I buy my first boat the fuel skyrockets. When I bought my diesel truck, the diesel prices started to steadily head north about 2 months after I got it. Whatcha gonna do :huh: I costs money to have fun.
Travis..
 
There was an interesting debate going about fuel consumption between 3.0 and 4.3 not long ago.
The idea being that fuel is burned according to the work done, so two identical boats in identical conditions, one wiht a 3 litre and the other with a 4.3 would or should both burn the same amount of fuel.
The problem with this reasoning is that each engine has it's optimum so depending on how the boat is used, the 3L may come in front or the 4.3 may be the winner.

If you trash your 3L regularly at the limit, you may actualy burn more fuel than a 4.3 doing the same speed/load
If you trash your 4.3 to the limit, you will definelty use more fuel than the 3L but you will probably go faster.
 
Marco1 said:
There was an interesting debate going about fuel consumption between 3.0 and 4.3 not long ago.
The idea being that fuel is burned according to the work done, so two identical boats in identical conditions, one wiht a 3 litre and the other with a 4.3 would or should both burn the same amount of fuel.
The problem with this reasoning is that each engine has it's optimum so depending on how the boat is used, the 3L may come in front or the 4.3 may be the winner.

If you trash your 3L regularly at the limit, you may actualy burn more fuel than a 4.3 doing the same speed/load
If you trash your 4.3 to the limit, you will definelty use more fuel than the 3L but you will probably go faster.
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This would only be true if the mechanical efficencies of the two engines were the same, and they are not. The 4.3 is pushing two extra pistions and a heavier crank, so it must produce more power inside the cylinders to get the same power at the flywheel.
 
I have a 98 Sea ray 4 cly I have started it every other week since winter started without any problems started every time and idled great I went to start it today after 3 weeks and It starts up when I use a high rpm but when I try to idle it down it just shuts off it just wont stay running I added fuel stabilizer to the gas when I parked it last Aug .. Any help would be great Thanks
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New to the site, hope a 175 owner qualifies/ is welcome here I have a ? you may already have the answer to. Juts bought a 1998 Sea Ray 175, titled as a 1998. But the owners manual we got is 1997. I even had the original bill of sale new and it lists it as a 1998. The Sea Ray site dies not list a model 175 for the year 1998. Any ideas? Thanks
 
aqua*holic said:
This would only be true if the mechanical efficencies of the two engines were the same, and they are not. The 4.3 is pushing two extra pistions and a heavier crank, so it must produce more power inside the cylinders to get the same power at the flywheel.
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Nee, that is looking things from too close up.

The only consideration is the amount of fuel used per KW/hour
and the effciency curve.
Both engine will have a very similar fuel consumption probably in the order of 250 gr per KW/Hour but different optimum working range.
However much of the optimum will overlap and when they are both in the optimum region, they will use the same amount of fuel.
It is when one is outside the optimum and the other is still in the optimum range that the difference is noticeable.

The rotating mass inside an egine is not in inverse proportion of its efficiency or a diesel one cilinder model engine would be the most efficient engine in the world and the worst is that big Sulzer 2 story high and 25 cylinder long.
Yet the opposit is the case.
 
Anyway....
Can someone post the link to download the Owners Manual for a 2005 180 Sport?

Thank you in advance
 
I have a 98 Sea ray 4 cly I have started it every other week since winter started without any problems started every time and idled great I went to start it today after 3 weeks and It starts up when I use a high rpm but when I try to idle it down it just shuts off it just wont stay running I added fuel stabilizer to the gas when I parked it last Aug .. Any help would be great Thanks
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It seems you have carburator problem. Probably clogged by old fuel. Lack of use is the boat's worst enemy.
Clean/replace the fuel filters, empty the fuel tank, clean it out and replace with new fuel. Make sure there is no condensation water at the bottom of the tank. If this fails, get someone to have a look at your carburator. If you are game to take it off, you can get it serviced off the boat. Otherwise, get someone to take it off dismantle clean and put back in.

Good luck, and let us know how you go and what you did.
Marc
 
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Hello everybody.

Did anybody replace their stock battery with AGM? I was looking for information on what battery is better and it sounds like AGM is it, but one article mentioned that it might need a new alternator. Will it work without additional modificàtions?

Thanks in advance!
 
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i have an old 180...with outboard on it...i am noticing that while cruising at 40mph i have to make small adjustments to the steering ...like torque steer...it is a hydraulic setup and when i asked the boat mechanic about it he said it would be best to just replace with a new baystar setup...after dust and labor $1k....so does anyone know what unit is in this and what is my alternative...i am taking it to a different mech. for second opinion....hopefully better....
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i ended up changing out the ram....its a seastar not a baystar....also my mechanic said the 135 is a choked down 150...a little tuning and it will be a 150hp
 
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