180 Bow Rider Thread... Questions & Answers or just chat!

Hi, is the Bennet M120 kit too big for a Sea Ray 180?

Regards
 
I have 176 bowrider and the bilge pump has stopped working, fuse is ok and there is a light on the switch.
as pump is under the engine, access is appalling, I can only just see the pump.
has anyone any ideas about what I should do and what I should check, as pump is automatic as well as manual there should be a fuse somewhere in addition to the one on the control panel.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mike (Wales UK)
 
mike brennen said:
I have 176 bowrider and the bilge pump has stopped working, fuse is ok and there is a light on the switch.
as pump is under the engine, access is appalling, I can only just see the pump.
has anyone any ideas about what I should do and what I should check, as pump is automatic as well as manual there should be a fuse somewhere in addition to the one on the control panel.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mike (Wales UK)
Click to expand...

I would really look over the switch, then work your way back. 9 out of 10 electrical problems are ground issues. check the actual float if possible even tho you said it doesnt work in manual mode. let us know how it goes!
 
you were quite right, it was an electrical fault-- the inline fuse had blown, it is quite annoying that the manual never advised me where the inline fuse was situated and I had to do 'handstands' in the engine compartment in order to trace the wires back to the fuse.
Also there should be instructions on how to service/repair the bilge pump if ever the need arises. As the pump is situated under the engine in a very cramped compartment it is almost impossible to see it and everything has to be done by feel.

many thanks for your advice.

Mike
 
mike brennen said:
you were quite right, it was an electrical fault-- the inline fuse had blown, it is quite annoying that the manual never advised me where the inline fuse was situated and I had to do 'handstands' in the engine compartment in order to trace the wires back to the fuse.
Also there should be instructions on how to service/repair the bilge pump if ever the need arises. As the pump is situated under the engine in a very cramped compartment it is almost impossible to see it and everything has to be done by feel.

many thanks for your advice.

Mike
Click to expand...

Hey thats great news!! We both learned something new. Happy boating!
 
it would be great to be on the water but it is snowing and temp is -something need to emigrate to florida ir canada

mike
 
We spent both Jan 1 and Jan 2 on the Sport 185 cruising a river and around the city of
Tampa... both days we hit a couple waterside restaurants.. definitely a nice day in the sun and a chance to exercise the boat

FWIW - I moved to FL about 7 years ago.. and these 2 days made me feel real fortunate to have made that move :)
 
anyone fitted a depth guage to a bowrider, if so who should I buy one from. The internet has a vast amount of information but without the correct criteria I have not a clue.

thanks Mike (Wales UK)
 
Hi everyone,

Ever since I bought my boat I have been having an issue with the depth gauge. When on the hook, it will be accurate up to 5-6 feet and in deeper waters it shows less depth than there (in 20 ft I am showing around 7-8). When going above 30 mph, the gauge blanks out.

I read one post that talked about adjusting the angle of the transducer to point more forward, but it does not seem that my braket allows for it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
I have two transducers...

1. shoot-thru-hull transducer with puck mounted in bilge just forward of the belts. The display fits in the factory position (center hole) on the dash.
This one is only semi-accurate... Mounting of this type of transducer has to be perfect to get decent results.. mine we mounted well (I can't say perfect), at slow speeds it does OK, but can be erratic when cruising. I don't really use this one anymore.

So I added:

#2. garmin GPS with transom-mounted transducer.
This setup works great.. never had an issue. always accurate at any speed. See this thread:
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?p=438948#post438948
I need to post updated pics of the install.. I used a ram-mount for the GPS, this gives some flexibility in the positioning.


Here's a primer on type of sonar...
http://www.lei-extras.com/tips/sonartut/transducers.asp
 
Well... count me in.
Marc:grin:
Sydney
 
Not sure if this was already covered here, but when I had my 180 Sport I added the Smart Tabs. Made the ride 100% better!

I also have them on my 220 SD however the improvement in ride was not as much to the boat size.

I will also say that I really miss the payment that I had on my 180 Sport :(
 
Has anyone fittet smart tabs to their 180, the new SX version?
I can see in their fitting instructions that the actuator has to be on the same plane that the hinges are....?
Is there a way around that?
http://www.nauticusinc.com/pdf/SX_cautions.pdf
 
Marco1 said:
Has anyone fittet smart tabs to their 180, the new SX version?
I can see in their fitting instructions that the actuator has to be on the same plane that the hinges are....?
Is there a way around that?
http://www.nauticusinc.com/pdf/SX_cautions.pdf
Click to expand...
My friend installed the SX smart tabs on his 2007 185 sport and the actuator was mounted on the same plane as the upper mount. However, when I tried to install the SX version on my 2000 190 signature the upper mount would not have been on the same plane. I called Nauticus and John recommended the stainless smart tabs so I returned the SX model and got the SS ones and have been very pleased with them for over a year now. I paid a little more and had to buy two anodes for them but I can say they were the second best investment in my boat after the swimplatform (and just ahead of my two battery setup with combiner).
 
Hi there!
Another question.

Has anyone here replaced the starter motor on a 180 Sport?
Mine is the one with the cross bench so there seems to be a bit more access from the battery side.
It looks like I will have to remover the battery and get inside that space to pull the old starter out.
Any idea how hard it is?
 
I got a 1998 Sea ray 3.0 180 Last summer and I haven't had to changed the oil yet but now that summer is right around the corner I was wondering what weight oil and size filter should I use ? And are their any tricks I need to know to make changin it any easier

Thanks in advance
 
Anyone on this thread used a Hydrofoil?

I have a 2010 185 sport. My brothers have a 2005 180 and a 2007 185. Both use a Hydrofoil and swear by it. I've been in there boats and can't really tell a difference.
 
After some research, I decided to change my starter motor by myself.
My old one worked but was slow and judging from the amount of rust on it, the previous owner must have had the bilge with water more than twice.
Since this boats are rather hard to clutch start, I thought a new one was cheap insurance.

After 3 quotes for supply ranging from $390 to $800 I bought it on line from Partsman www.marineengineparts.com for $145. Got it at my door 6 days later. In case you did not notice, my pet hate are Australian Boat Dealers.:smt013
And yes it is a marine starter motor not a car one.

This starter motors are designed to be taken out from under the car. Put the car on a lift and Bob is your uncle. In a boat it is a different story.

First I disconnected all the cables that are bolted on the suppy bolt (9/16)and the little cable that activates the solenoid (11/32 or 9mm)
Loosened the 9/16 nut that holds the back bracket on the motor block and the little 3/8 nut that bolts the bracket and the back of the starter motor

After some huffing and puffing I managed to get a 1/2" socket in the bolts under the strater and cracked the rust with a long driver handle. Changed to a ratchet and at very last got the two bolts out. Easier said than done, head forward and working upside down.

THe new motor got in fine, slotted in the big hole, get the back bracket in and tighten the nut so it does not fall in the bilge. Get the bolts one by one in by hand and tighten them up. The new bots needed a 9/16 socket. Greased the thread of both bolts.
Bolted all the thick wires as they were on the big brass bolt and then I noticed a small sticker on the left small bolt on the solenoid.
It reads:" If using only one thin cable, ignore R terminal" and a big arrow pointing at the left terminal were the sticker is.

Now that got me stumped. The old one also has two terminals on the solenoid but uses the right side terminal.
This has a sticker on the LEFT terminal telling me to ignore the "R" terminal.
Now what on earth is an "R" terminal? Right? Return? Resistence" Ragu?" :huh:
I called in an automotive spare part shop and the old timer there told me that that "resistance" terminal was used when the starter would drain the ingition coil so badly that the engine did not start. So the left side terminal has a bridge from the starter solenoid and returns some current to the coil.
Don't you love instructions?

So wired, bolted turn the key ... click and nothing.
What on earth is going on?

Pull the starter out again, more huffing and puffing and sweating and this time I tested it on another battery.
Nothing.

Turned the damn think with a screwdriver on the gear a few turns. Try again and fires up like there is no tomorrow.
I bet you they put this things togeather and never test them.
Get the starter in again with even more sweat and pain. I am getting tired and I am dropping tools in the bilge and work more at fishing them out then in bolting my starter.

It is in, finally, and turn the key and it fires up first time. :smt101

I need some rest. :grin:
 
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