Mark RSA2AU
New Member
Thanks ZZ13
I will replace anyway, can only do it good!
Cheers
Mark
I will replace anyway, can only do it good!
Cheers
Mark
180 Bow Rider Thread... Questions & Answers or just chat!
- Thread starter User Error
- Start date
User Error
New Member
Bringing the old Thread back... it's summer! I'm starting the get a hard start issue... it fires but I have to pin the throttle and grind on it for a good 2 to 5 seconds and it'll fire up... thinking the Dist and Rotor could be my issue? New wires last year and new plugs as well... Never done the cap n rotor... is it just an S-10 cap n rotor from the auto parts store? never looked into it...
User Error
New Member
I know I gave this it's own thread... (posted that before I found my old thread here)... Figured i'd ask the other 180 owners as well...
2000 180 3.0 I/O
Hey all I'm trying to add a 5th Carling Rocker to my switch panel for interior LEDS and I want it to match my other switches and work as OEM... My dash lights are a light blue almost aqua color... and I can't figure out if they are calling these Blue or Green? Any help would be appreciated. I am looking for an illuminated switch with the 3 finger grooves top and bottom on the actuator with the "aqua" light in one of the slots showing it's on and would preffer Cabin Lights or Courtesy Lights Verbage or logo on the actuator... Anyone know where I can buy this switch at a reasonable price? I think I need the V1DA (Thats what the others are). The V1D1 looks like the same switch to me but not sure... any help would be appreciated...
2000 180 3.0 I/O
Hey all I'm trying to add a 5th Carling Rocker to my switch panel for interior LEDS and I want it to match my other switches and work as OEM... My dash lights are a light blue almost aqua color... and I can't figure out if they are calling these Blue or Green? Any help would be appreciated. I am looking for an illuminated switch with the 3 finger grooves top and bottom on the actuator with the "aqua" light in one of the slots showing it's on and would preffer Cabin Lights or Courtesy Lights Verbage or logo on the actuator... Anyone know where I can buy this switch at a reasonable price? I think I need the V1DA (Thats what the others are). The V1D1 looks like the same switch to me but not sure... any help would be appreciated...
Last edited:
User Error
New Member
Anyone still have their stock 21p prop or a SS? I'm currently running a 17p and would like some more top end speed... I can give up some plane time since i'm under 2.5 seconds to get on plane currently... Would even think about a 19p... I have a second brand new SS 17p I could be up for a trade?
WazzuCMGrad
New Member
I have a stock 21p still. It's early in the AM; what's the upside/downside to less pitch (faster hole shot, lower top speed)? Haven't had a chance to tow skiers or wakeboarders yet.
Thoughts? PM me if you want to.
On your other questions, yes to replacing cap/rotor, and one thought is to wire the LED's into the existing lighting switch (if you're parked and using your LED's, I think you should have your mooring/all-around light on to, no?)
Thoughts? PM me if you want to.
On your other questions, yes to replacing cap/rotor, and one thought is to wire the LED's into the existing lighting switch (if you're parked and using your LED's, I think you should have your mooring/all-around light on to, no?)
WazzuCMGrad
New Member
Try this; looks like you should be able to get something darn close to what you need:
http://www.carlingtech.com/rocker-switches-v-series-ii-iii
Otherwise, if you can get a deal on the switches, you could replace them all with current style so they look the same. Did your local Sea Ray dealer have any? You might have some luck with them, and could possibly get a 2nd two position lighting switch that would allow you to control 2 zones of LED accents!
clayvis
Member
Silly ?... is my engine fuel injected or carburetor? 05 180 Sport 3.0L. I fix people parts, not mechanical parts lol
clayvis
Member
Does anyone use shore fuel as opposed to marina fuel? Regular gas station gas is $3.50/gal and marina gas is $5.00 (non-ethanol). If so, has anyone tried this http://www.goldeagle.com/products/product3CC6.aspx Anyone have trouble/issues with regular gas station gas? I don't plan on leaving the boat sitting for long periods of time. We take her out 1 - 2 times a week and store it dry and covered. 2005 180 Sport 3.0 L
blaster
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2011
- 3,467
- Boat Info
- 2010 sea ray 205 sport
F-250 CCLB 6.2 4x4 3.73 rear.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 4.3 mpi alpha 1.62
As long as you burn it up within a few months you should be ok. Just make sure you use the good gas before you winterize.
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
My 175 is trailered and kept in the garage. I only fill up with shore gas and its all E10. I use Startron religiously. I don't winterize over the winter (doesn't get cold enough in coastal southern South Carolina). Over the winter the same full tank is mostly there for sometimes up to 6 months. I do start and run it on muffs when I am in South Carolina (if I can't take it on the water) at least once every 4-6 weeks. I do not have a water separator filter. Starts and runs well. I may have had the gas degrade on occasion but nothing I really noticed or concerned myself with.
clayvis
Member
At the marina it is a 90 octane, at the gas station what should I put in... 87, 89, 91 (I think those are the standards)?
clayvis
Member
Just called around and found a station not tooo far from me that has ethanol free gas for $4.00 a gallon. That's a dollar cheaper than the marina gas. I'll save $21 per fill-up
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
That's perfect. I mostly use 93 octane (because the dealer I bought it from said to) and occasionally have put in as low as 89. Actually, I think I have a manual that came with my boat that says using 87 octane is just fine.
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Carbureted. 3.0L MPI for Sea Ray didn't show up until the 2010 models as an option.
clayvis
Member
Thanks guys
User Error
New Member
I wouldn't go quite that far... i try to run it out atleast once a month but normally i'm out every week as well... I used 93 E10 but like he said the couple of tanks right before i put it up for the winter I run non-ethenol to it clears all the corn out... and i leave it as empty as possible and fill it up with fresh fuel before I ever touch the key the next season... but I also take mine out to watch fire works on new years normally so it gets run mid winter... I've went as far as sucking the tank dry and running fuel out of the carb before winter like I do my motorcycles and 4 wheelers... bad fuel and the corn are horrible to sit at all...
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
the 6 cylinder owners like the High Five stainless steel prop. Dutchman tried it on our 4 cylinder version and didn't see any advantage of it. Otheres then commented that the lower torque of the 4 cylinder engine doesn't like the weight of the stainless steel props. I'll try to find the thread where that was discussed. I personally like the 3-blade stock aluminum prop on mine. I can get 6 adults on plane no problem. Although I don't do the wakeboarding thing, so no sure how that goes.
Found it: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/43869-What-prop-to-use-for-a-175?p=487238#post487238
Last edited:
blaster
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2011
- 3,467
- Boat Info
- 2010 sea ray 205 sport
F-250 CCLB 6.2 4x4 3.73 rear.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 4.3 mpi alpha 1.62
On my 01, 180 br I found the 21" aluminum that came with it to be the best all around prop for that boat. I could plane off with a full load and empty it did about 42mph at 4800 RPM. With a 21" Stainless laser 2 it did 44 mph at 4700 RPM, more or less. With a 19" stainless similar to the 19" Vengeance I have on my current boat, it over sped the engine and I stopped at 5000 RPM. I didn't get an accurate speed measurement but it was again low 40s. For wakeboarding I would consider a 4 blade aluminum 18" but be careful not to over speed the engine.
