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Good idea Jason. I'll give Airmar a call -- thanks!

Thanks Jason78. Do you know if there is any particular lubricant recommended for the o-ring seal before assembly into the flange? I'll definitely be doing the change out of the water, easy as boat hangs on the boat lift in boathouse. I would never feel comfortable trying that change in the...

Thanks for your reply ZZ13. Unfortunately, I've lost depth and temp. If only temp I really wouldn't care. I just need to know if there are any procedures I need to watch for during replacement. Thanks again!

It looks like I'm going to need to replace my thru-hull depth/temp transducer. Just wondering if anyone has experience and if there are any special instructions (i.e. procedure, tools, lube for seals/o-rings.etc.). Thanks for any input!

I have an issue with my Smartcraft Tachometer readings. I'm not getting any info for depth or sea temp. I know they use the same transducer and I've unpluggged and re-plugged the connector hoping it was just corrosion on the plug. One interesting thing, when you first turn on the ignition the...

I was doing my annual winterization this past weekend and had a strange occurance. As I began to pour from a new (still sealed) gallon of Mercruiser Synthetic Blend 25W-40 the oil was coming out sort of "gloppy" and appeared to be separated. After shaking the bottle vigorously to mix it seemed...

All you have do to access is remove the screws around the carpeted area that houses the cabin dining table storage. There are about 15-25 screws; it is really quite easy. I'll bet when you do you'll find the entire area up to the bulkhead (behind the tank) full of water. As I indicated in my...

We had the same problem with our 2006 240DA. The problem for us was the fill hose connection to the fresh water tank. You will need to remove some the interior under your table storage and will likely find that the tank has fill fittings that don't have a proper taper diameter. By that I...

We get about 10 GPH cruising at 25-27 MPH.

I think the real issue is with the adhesive they used. It is just way to rigid and not nearly flexible enough. Because of this, very high stresses are induced into the covers during temperature extremes (especially cold) where the cover wants to contract but the adhesive prevents it. When...

I had to order new ones for our 240DA. They both cracked because the adhesive SeaRay used was much to rigid and did not allow for thermal movement during the winter. Mine cracked during the winter while the boat was on the lift. I'm not sure what they used for adhesive, but it is very hard and...

Based on your very low fluid level I would guess you may have air in the system. As air is quite compressible it can cause a myriad of issues. I would lower the unit all the way and fill to the proper level and operate full up/down a few times to purge the air and see if the issue clears.

On ours the water pressure sensor is on the power steering cooliing tube directly aft of the engine and by the steering linkage. Ours is a pressure sensor not a flow sensor. As far as pressure, in the water (not on hose) we get about 1.5psi @ idle and about 18psi @3500RPM.

Ours has the 800GPH Rule pump. Of course, in the real world you would never get that kind of output. Having said that, I would really hate to ever need anything close to that!

I think chromed bronze is the nicest finish but as you stated there are other considerations. Chromed bronze usually does very well in salt enviro but sounds like you are on fresh water lake so that is not an issue. Good luck.

I think your pressure should be around 2 psi. The 24 psi number on your other engine sounds like a sender problem. According to my Mercury shop manual pressure should be around 20 psi @4000RPM. Mine is around 2 psi at idle.

I read many horror stories about exploding bottles and lube all over the bilge, also when we first got our boat we seemed to be using some gear lube (more than I thought it should) and I noticed fairly high bottle pressure. I figured it might be stressing the seals (causing lube loss) and sure...

Anybody have this problem? I altered our lube bottle cap (so as to not over-pressurize the bottle) to allow it to be fully vented (removed the one way rubber valve), closed that hole and left the very small (about 1/16") dia. hole in the cap open to act as a vent. Even with the lube about...

Dexron III works fine in a Dexron II application. It just supersedes the other application and is fully lower number compatible.

I suggest you put a little blue painter's tape over the holes.