Recent content by jetpartner

After all of my troubleshooting I have to agree with cfd95. I assumed my engine witj 100 hours was healthy and the problem was related to electrical, fuel injection, computer, or sensors. The problem was low compression and low vacuum which told the computer to match fuel demand to manifold...

1.Put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, test pressure at idle and with vacuum supply to pressure regulator removed. Fuel pressure should rise with vacuum supply removed, if this does happen your pressure regulator is good. Now put vacuum supply back on let engine idle for a min to...

I have the same issue with my port engine. No computer codes, new injectors, fuel pressure is correct. Only thing that is different is my IAC position when warm. Ignition timing jumps more than other engine. I am leaning towards computer wire harness is bad and when warm resistance causes a...

As the owner of a 2000 310 Sundancer with V drives I can tell you that don't try and change the shaft seal in the water. The black plastic ring on the shaft is a spare seal. You would need to remove spare seal cover, 2 screws. Changing the seal in the water requires you to hang upside down and...

My boat is in the Keys at Mangrove Marina in a wet slip. I have no doubt it will be destroyed.

My sea strainer for the a/c water supply is on the port side next to the pump not behind the transmission.

I have replaced my engine and am in the process of replacing the other. You will need to pull the prop to allow the shaft to slide back thru the transmission. The coupler is the hard part, one came off just fine with a gear puller and the other engine I am having to cut it off. You will need...

I have a 2000 310 with drives, this past year I replaced one of my engines by removing the transmission with the engine. My advice is to pull out engine with transmission, because there are mounting bolts that are not accessible with unit in the boat. You will have to remove prop shaft no...

I really hope you don't have an oil leak there. Almost impossible to repair or replace if any rust is there

Here is my story: Last year a 4 dollar hose clamp failed, this clamp was located on the manifold and shaft seal cooling supply. The engine is closed cooled but manifolds are seawater cooled. Engine did not overheat, but rubber exhaust hose burned and alternator was drenched with saltwater...

Correction. I replaced with a long block, heads and all. Cost 3095.

I just replaced one of my engines with a new short block from marine power cost was 3095 . It came with all tins, water pump, and harmonic balancer. Installed my manifold , ingnition etc. Runs great . My total cost was 3095 plus shiping of about 250.

My gauges did not have condensation they had a film left over from condensation. I tried to dry them out thinking it was moisture but in the end I was forced to either replace them or disassemble them. I was not easy or quick but it can be done. And yes I know they are vented how else could...

Yes there is a fader on the stero. It is difficult to use but it is there. Also there is a 30 watt amp behind the stero that drives the cockpit speakers . The amp has a separate volume control for the cockpit speakers.

The bearings in the seawater pump are going bad. Trust me I know it happened on both of my engines. They will seize and break the belt while under way. The engine will overheat very fast. Dont mess around anymore replace both pumps. This happened to me with same engine set up.