jetpartner
Member
Here is my story: Last year a 4 dollar hose clamp failed, this clamp was located on the manifold and shaft seal cooling supply. The engine is closed cooled but manifolds are seawater cooled. Engine did not overheat, but rubber exhaust hose burned and alternator was drenched with saltwater. Engine ran without supplying water to shaft seal for approx 1 min. I limped back to port on the other engine feeling lucky that there was no fire. I replaced hose, clamps and alternator. Five hours later the manifold failed, this was probably due to the lack of cooling water before. Water in engine was caught before a catastrophic engine failure. Pulled heads inspected and installed new gaskets with new manifolds, spacers and risers. Fast forward one year, we are out in the Keys headed to Duck Key for the weekend when my serpentine belt failed. I caught it right away because exhaust sound changed. I replaced belt and we were on our way. We get to the marina and I notice my bilge pump is running nonstop. Not good! Open the hatch and notice my shaft seal is leaking big time. I had a spare seal on the shaft but the carrier was melted and deformed. I clamped the hell out of what was left of my tides seal and we ONLY had a small leak of drips. We were able to get the boat back home and back in dry stack with out anymore problems.
I pulled the engine and transmission after removing 4 rusted nuts on the engine mounts, few hoses, cables, and electrical connections. The shaft was also removed. This work was done by one man, me.. The only help I had was the fork lift driver. I removed the shaft, the seal and the carrier. The ONLY way to replace the carrier is with the engine out. The carrier was my problem because of lack of water flow. My engine had 1000 hours on it and I was not going to put any old parts back in the boat. Ordered a new 5.7 long block from Marine Power $3095, a new tides shaft seal kit and spare $900, all new pulleys hoses and anything that looked worn. My belt broke because pulleys were rusted from salt water. My engine was leaking oil from the dipstick tube at the banjo bolt, more rust. Reassembled engine test run and reinstalled. The point if this story, change every clamp you can and make sure they are stainless steel. Here is a link to my engine test run in my garage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BbKH8i58Z8
I pulled the engine and transmission after removing 4 rusted nuts on the engine mounts, few hoses, cables, and electrical connections. The shaft was also removed. This work was done by one man, me.. The only help I had was the fork lift driver. I removed the shaft, the seal and the carrier. The ONLY way to replace the carrier is with the engine out. The carrier was my problem because of lack of water flow. My engine had 1000 hours on it and I was not going to put any old parts back in the boat. Ordered a new 5.7 long block from Marine Power $3095, a new tides shaft seal kit and spare $900, all new pulleys hoses and anything that looked worn. My belt broke because pulleys were rusted from salt water. My engine was leaking oil from the dipstick tube at the banjo bolt, more rust. Reassembled engine test run and reinstalled. The point if this story, change every clamp you can and make sure they are stainless steel. Here is a link to my engine test run in my garage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BbKH8i58Z8
