Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Will do, thanks for the reply. I looked in the engine manual and seen the (2) screws in the pump you are referring to. I will check them this coming weekend. The oil to use is Merc gear oil correct?
Right, I use the high proformance lower unit lube....also found that one of those lower unit gear oil hand pumps works great! Just remove the plug from the water pump and screw the hand pump hose in then crack loose the top screws on the water pump and pump in a few shots of new lube..all the old nasty gas/lube (and some of the new lube that you are pumping in) will gush out the top of the water pump gear case. Better have losts of rags and/or a pan to catch the nasty! after you feel you have displace all of the bad with good just retighten the top and let the excess drain out the plug hole till it stops. Replace plug and Yer done. It's EASY and fast.
 
I'm wondering, is it possible to run all 120v electrics (A/C, Heat, Water Heater, Fridge and small appliances) from one shore power cord with a "Y" adapter at the hull? Or, do I need 2 seperate cords to properly power everything? Obviously, not everything would be running at the same time for very long. At my marina I would be using 2 cords but when I travel to transient slips would I need 2 cords. Thanks
 
Sure. I do it all of the time. You just have to be cognizant of what is sucking juice as you only get 30 amps total to play with. AC, Water Heater, and Stove are the big ones, and you can usually have only two of the three. When the Admiral cooks, the first thing she does is turn off the hot water heater and we generally have no problems blowing circuit breakers.
 
If you want to charge your battery and run your frig and air conditioning you need the Y adapter to do what you want to do. But the adapter costs around $260. So for half the price you can buy two 30a cords. Y adapter is nice when you only have one 30a outlet on the transient slip. Our old slip only had a single 30a outlet so I needed to use the y adapter all the time.
 
Engine Hour meter connection
My 1998 330DA came with the engine hour meters disconnected.
They are the digital in the RPM gauge.
They are not lit.

I haven't pulled the dash panel yet and was wondering if this is a simple fix and how it is wired.
I read some posts about the meters but in older different boats...anyone know this year and boat and the meters?
 
Hmmm. My '99 has analog hour meters. Do you think your tachometers/hour meters gauges could have been replaced? Does anyone else have factory original Tachs with digital hour meters?
 
Hmmm. My '99 has analog hour meters. Do you think your tachometers/hour meters gauges could have been replaced? Does anyone else have factory original Tachs with digital hour meters?
Gee, never crossed my mind these weren't factory....I just bought the boat so no idea.
It was donated to charity and bought from them so no direct contact with the original owner.
The boat was hardly used, everything works and looks almost brand new. I would think these are factory....the story was when the engines were rebuilt (100 hours ago-report) they were apparently not hooked up again....not sure about all of that...either way want to get them working....
 
In 1998 they were analog not digital, these were replaced. Does the whole tach not work or just the hour meters?
 
The diagnostic tool will only work if the motors have Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI). If the motors are carbureted the diagnostic tool will do you no good.
 
Regarding the shorepower and Y adapters. I have two 30s plugged into boat and those two 30s go to Y adapter and into 1 50amp slot on the dock. Works great when a 50 is available and u can't get 2 30s on the dock.

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Good call my stripes are starting to look a little tired...

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Engine Hour meter connection
My 1998 330DA came with the engine hour meters disconnected.
They are the digital in the RPM gauge.
They are not lit.

I haven't pulled the dash panel yet and was wondering if this is a simple fix and how it is wired.
I read some posts about the meters but in older different boats...anyone know this year and boat and the meters?

The digital hour meters on the tach just work off the 12v on from engine , nothing really to connect, i changed mine over to digital when my tachs went flaky I think there were stock on the 99 model (mine have the sea ray logo). i would just check to see if there is a power lead that is not connected on back of tachs,
 
The digital hour meters on the tach just work off the 12v on from engine , nothing really to connect, i changed mine over to digital when my tachs went flaky I think there were stock on the 99 model (mine have the sea ray logo). i would just check to see if there is a power lead that is not connected on back of tachs,

You may be seeing the biggest lie in the used boat market -- Lots of people disconnect the hour meter when they buy a boat then reconnect it when they sell it. You should treat an hour meter number just like you treat any other information you get from a seller -- with a big fat grain of salt. Digital meters tied into the engine may be different but the analogue ones were highly prone to manipulation.
 
Our 98 has analog tachs with digital hour meters embedded at the bottom.
Same as mine. Tach's work fine...guessing per the comments on the "12V from engine" that the 12V isn't connected either at the tach or the engine...I think these are original tach's they are logo'd...look exactly like all my gauges...thanks I'll check my gauges when I can pull the panel, maybe today or early next week...
 
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Advice on 330 late 90's or early 2000 years........

From everyone's experience can you tell me what I should be aware of in these year 330's? What you like and don't like? Because of limitations of my lift I'm thinking a 330 would fit my available lift the best. Can any one share with me your thoughts and experience with your 330 in these years?? Initially I was looking for a minimum 03 340 but that brings all new set of challenges for me so I'm now looking into 330's.... All comments welcome. Thanks..
 

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