Official 330 Sundancer Thread

rumrunner said:
G's Spot, What made you go with the WAECO CR-110E-F-S fridge, I was going to pull the trigger on the Nova Kool Unit this week. Let me know. I will take a look on the internet.
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The Weaco 110 is 2 cubic feet smaller and is too narrow to cover the original cabinet cut out, it will need to be trimmed on the sides. The Waeco is a nice unit too, but it's not going to give you the extra space and will not look like OEM when done.
 
Thanks for the input Larry, going to pull the trigger on the Nova Kool Unit this week. I will take some pics and document the replacement of the Norcold. Should be a good project!
 
larry, i have the identical 330 recently purhcased at marine max - Norwalk. i could use some tips on getting famaliar with my boat.
1. where can i purchase either a oil pressure sender unit, or if this checks out to be ok, an aftemarket oil pressure gauge similar to the factory installed one
2. what are the two water lines in the bilge compartments? i noticed fresh water in the bilge and am figuring out where the hell this came from: ac unit or drain?
3. if you have mounted an inflatable on your transon, what hardware have you used? i am looking at weaver industries snap davits
4. what outboard engine mount works well?
5. does the genset need priming before running for the first time in spring? Re. it was winterized, i ran it yesterday . it ran for 5mins then shut off. it would only remain running if i held the pre-ignite switch on
6. where can i purchase a new door lock?the lock barrel wont turn fully

thanks much!
adam hamon
milford CT
98 330 Sundancer
2 X 7.4l Mercruisers
 
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Does anyone know if the bow rail on a 1997 330 DA is fastened with screws or nut and bolt? mine are mostly loose and im wondering how much of a project it will be to correct.
 
You are in for a project. The bow rail is attached with nuts and bolts.

You can try tightening them up with a screwdriver. Several will tighten and there will be a few that will require dissassembly.
 
Arthamon weaver snap davits will work well on the 330. And if your inflatable is 10'or less u should be able to use the aft door to get on and off the boat with no problem.

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Well guys, I'm going to tackle replacing the raw water impeller pumps tomorrow on the (2) 7.4L engines in my 330 DA. Any tricks or tips out there would be appreciated. The port engine doesn't look too bad but the starboard engine looks to be another matter. Thanks in advance.
 
Raw water pumps. Well you most likely have the fuel pump built on top of the raw water pump.

Heard its easier to remove the hoses remove the pump. Then replace the impeller and plate. The put it back in.

If I put the hatch up by moving the ram to the second mount you get a lot more room behind the engines. You need to take the rear seat off to get the hatch up to the second mount point.
 
Adam.

What water lines are you talking about.

The black line that run between the engines are the water cross overs for the shaft seals

The blue and red line are hot and cold water. They run from the water tank to the pump. They then tee one side feeds the wash down in the cabinet in deck. The other heads over to the hot water heater. They then head forward to the head and galley. Cold heads up to the cockpit sink and ice maker. One set from the hot water heater heads to the transom shower.

Then the white looking pump feeds the AC system. That runs white pipe through the engine room wall into the shower sump locker in front of the head in the floor. Then runs forward to the
AC unit via the lockers under the floor.

If you keep the boat in fresh water the n you need to look at the shaft seals and rudder packing.
 
wellswa said:
Well guys, I'm going to tackle replacing the raw water impeller pumps tomorrow on the (2) 7.4L engines in my 330 DA. Any tricks or tips out there would be appreciated. The port engine doesn't look too bad but the starboard engine looks to be another matter. Thanks in advance.
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just did mine last week. the starboard side sucks. I pulled the pin on the hatch and opened it all the way (tied it off on rear rail). pull the hoses first then do the swapout. Main problem is the exhaust tube is right in the way. Good luck.
Also my pump was shot and had to replace, talk about sticker shock...$699 just for the water pump, not the fuel pump.
while your doing the impellers check the oil in the pump. there's a little screw on the side of the pump. I take a little plastic snuffer bottle and fill it with lower unit gear oil and squirt it in then replace the screw.
 
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I did ALL the bow rails and cleats two seasons ago.. on our '96 330 Dancer... nuts and bolts all the way around.. I posted a full description about two yrs ago... have a GOOD friend assist you...used West Marine poly sealer an all bolts.. acetone to clean up the extra... note... original post page #30, post 292 has the details....
 
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Plane 2 Sea said:
I did ALL the bow rails and cleats two seasons ago.. on our '96 330 Dancer... nuts and bolts all the way around.. I posted a full description about two yrs ago... have a GOOD friend assist you...used West Marine poly sealer an all bolts.. acetone to clean up the extra...
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Can you post a link to your original post? I cannot find it and I have tried a couple of times. THanks
 
Oil in pump? Which pump are you referring to? I got both impeller pumps changed out this past Saturday.
It turned out not to be too bad at all. I did have the exhaust risers and tubes taken off already though for gasket replacement so they were not in my way. That helped quite a bit. She'll be ready to splash in about a week now. Wahoo!!
 
Oil in pump? Which pump are you referring to? I got both impeller pumps changed out this past Saturday.
It turned out not to be too bad at all. I did have the exhaust risers and tubes taken off already though for gasket replacement so they were not in my way. That helped quite a bit. She'll be ready to splash in about a week now. Wahoo!!​
skyykingg said:
just did mine last week. the starboard side sucks. I pulled the pin on the hatch and opened it all the way (tied it off on rear rail). pull the hoses first then do the swapout. Main problem is the exhaust tube is right in the way. Good luck.
Also my pump was shot and had to replace, talk about sticker shock...$699 just for the water pump, not the fuel pump.
while your doing the impellers check the oil in the pump. there's a little screw on the side of the pump. I take a little plastic snuffer bottle and fill it with lower unit gear oil and squirt it in then replace the screw.
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There is an oil reservoir in the fuel pump. You'll see a flat head screw on the fuel pump. Oil goes in there. Also check to make sure there is no gas in there. My survey found both pump diaphrams were leaking and the oil res. had fuel in it.

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ippa2 said:
There is an oil reservoir in the fuel pump. You'll see a flat head screw on the fuel pump. Oil goes in there. Also check to make sure there is no gas in there. My survey found both pump diaphrams were leaking and the oil res. had fuel in it.

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Will do, thanks for the reply. I looked in the engine manual and seen the (2) screws in the pump you are referring to. I will check them this coming weekend. The oil to use is Merc gear oil correct?
 
ippa2 said:
There is an oil reservoir in the fuel pump. You'll see a flat head screw on the fuel pump. Oil goes in there. Also check to make sure there is no gas in there. My survey found both pump diaphrams were leaking and the oil res. had fuel in it.

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Now there's a good piece of information that I was not aware of!! Thanks for the info Ippa. I will follow up with my mechanic to see if he has ever checked that!
 
I've asked Sea Ray but is there somewhere I can go to get a wiring diagram for my 1996 330?
I'm trying to trouble shoot a "negative charging" gauge reading when I add power.
 
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