Your inputs To 340 Camper Canvas

Hampton

Air Defense Dept
TECHNICAL Contributor
Nov 26, 2006
7,628
Panama City, Fl
Boat Info
2008 44 Sedan Bridge
Engines
Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
My wife has literally told me that she would rather get shiny, new camper canvas than update her vehicle to a newer, non-mini-van-soccer-mom, car.

I would like your inputs to make this thing as perfect as possible. My inputs:

1) We will be replacing the front glass with the thin, plexiglass style hard windows.

2) We will be constructing a camper style aft section with Stratglass, aka - higher quality version of Eisenglass.

3) Aft portion will be mostly glass, and will be able to be rolled up and secured.

4) I want it to be as water-tight as possible - no "see-through" holes.

My Questions:

1) Do I need to replace the bimini's now? (3.5 years old) Should I? They look fine, but?

2) If I replace the aft bimini, should I make a large, 1-piece aft bimini or leave it in 2 sections?

3) Can I design the aft bimini to collapse forward against the arch for an open back end?

4) What are your successes or failures?
 
A good friend recommended zip-in screens for the sides. I think I will look into that.
 
ONLY use Chip @ the Recovery Room for this............

His standard aft enclosure is a little square looking, but he is flexible and has a welder on staff for the metal work so get involved with the design to be sure you don't destroy the boat's profile..

Forget trying to make an enclosure that folds up....for 2 reasons 1.) you never will fold it up and 2.) the rear bows, if your design uses them will be too long to nest against the arch.

Our boat has a rear eye-brow top from the factory. It was hung off the rear of the arch so we extended the metal frame and cantilevered the whole aft top off the arch and that let us add a full aft enclosure without needing to add extra bows. We just needed a side support on each side and chose to position them where they make a hand hold for climbing up on the side deck from the cockpit.

Yes, you do need to replace or remake all your existing canvas if it is 3+ years old. You have already gotten most of the life out of it and the new enclosure and panels will be cheaper if Chip doesn't have to match or line up existing zippers, snaps, supports etc. You will also have to replace all the zippers that join the isinglass panels anyway.

Finally, do not use Sea Mark fabric which is vinyl coated Sunbrella........doesn't breathe and will turn a Florida boat into a mildew farm and only has a 1 year warranty. Request the new flocked Sunbrella which is completely water proof but is breatheable and has the standard Sunbrella 5 year warranty.

Request either Goretex thread or the thread he used on my top ....it is a mil spec thread that wil not rot or decay in the sun, but I forgot the name of it. regular Dacron or polyesther thread will begin to decay in about 12 months and by 18 months you will have to have the top resewn, si requesting the other threads is wortht the added cost.

I'll be in town after Tuesday if you want ot come by and see the top on Sirens' Song.
 
Thanks, Frank. I'm meeting with Chip in 2 hours at TIM, which is where my boat is currently sitting.

Any recommendations about the shape to keep the boat's lines? I know you've said that yours sits low.

Good words about the thread and biminis.

Thanks again.
 
...
1) We will be replacing the front glass with the thin, plexiglass style hard windows..
There is a really nice laminated product(unfortunately I forget it's name) that I saw when having my windows re-done. It's very stiff but clear as glass an may be what you want/need.
Since I will stow all my windows frequently I wanted to be able to roll it. The stuff I have is called a .030 "polish" and looks great, very clear, but is more flexible.

Best of Luck
 
I'll be in town after Tuesday if you want ot come by and see the top on Sirens' Song.

I saved some photo's :grin:

2004-11-26_073231_aft_enclosure1.jpg

2004-11-26_074112_aft_enclosure2.jpg
 
Just some food for thought, my 185Sport is not even close to your 340 but I had custom canvas made for it. I have photos in the gallery you can look at. The guy that made mine sewed strips of Sunbrella where the bimini poles are and you can see the U shape for the window in the side panels with Sunbrella on both sides of that. I can email better pics if it is something you want to see better. I read of people trying to protect the glass from the poles, the strips do this and I think look good as well.
 
All good words. We came to an agreement today. He doesn't like to use Strata glass and thinks it's a bad idea for the camper due to sensitivity to chemicals like sunscreen. He's recommending 30mm extruded windows in the back. We're using hard windows up front. The center front one will be designed to zip out enough to hinge back and be snapped to the arch for an open front center. It will be removable to allow for a screened section to be installed (included). Front bimini will be replaced.

The camper will come in one single top section, 3 panels on each side, and 3 panels across the back. The forward panel on each side will be triangular to fit the arch. The second one will be a doorway, and the third will fill to the back. All sections can be rolled up and secured. The two back ones (on the sides) will be replacable by screens (included). There will be one big one in the back center, and two on the sides to match the size of the transom door. The transom locker will be functional without adjusting snaps.

I emphasized "No holes that rain can blow in." He agreed. I looked at my friend's 390 today with the hard front windows, and they are really, really, really, nice. I can't wait. The optics are as good as glass, and they are water tight.
 
Peter,

Thank you.........I am caught with my PC with the photos on it disconnected as we do some home improvements and couldn't get the photos to John.
 
My Canvas guy is saying that Strata is so sensitive that sun screen will make it look bad. Is it that bad?
 
Some sun screens will attack or remove the protective coating on Strataglass.

But I use it anyway. If it is going to be hot enough to use sun screen, we roll up or remove the curtains............so why the concern? I know your canvas guy and he isn't one prone to BS, but I'm not sure we have the whole scoop on the why he doesn't want to use Strataglass.
 
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I agree. My first impression - It's hard to work with. My thoughts - I'm not sure I care, so long as he's willing to do it anyway.
 
Last chance, guys - any war stories about Strata glass? Do I really have to worry about sun screen?
 
Last chance, guys - any war stories about Strata glass? Do I really have to worry about sun screen?

You can make a call to my guy, just for feedback and input.
See what he recommends?
It can't hurt:huh:
Kings Marine Canvas (Dave) 206-271-2294.
He's a straight up guy.
 
It's still early there - I'll try again later, thanks!

I ran an experiment overnight. I took two samples of Strata and one of 30 mil extruded and sprayed on crap from under my wife's sink and my daughters' sink.

Nail Polish Remover
Mosquito repellent
Spray on Sunscreen
Nair

In each case, the Strata held up better than the 30mm extruded plastic.

I went with the Strata.
 
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Dave said to go with 40 mil clear for the money. They key is that the thicker it is, the longer it will hold the plasticizers which give it it's flexibility and clarity. Strata has a coating to protect from scratches, but at the price, it may not be worth it. Bottom line for me. This is going to be as perfect of a 340 as I can create - it gets Strata.
 
We had this camper canvas made by Curtis Camp in Carolina Beach, NC (Inlet Watch Marina). I like the fact that most of it is Strataglass, with less Sunbrella canvas. The rear windows and side roll up, leaving screens in place. I can dock easily with the camper canvas in place.:smt001

2007 340DA
Chill Factor
North Topsail Beach, NC
Sneads Ferry, NC
 

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Mine is all but done now. The front windows are made from the hard plastic material that can't be rolled up, but has outstanding optics. The center one unzips all around to remove and replace with screen. Or, the center one can swing up and snap to the arch.

The back is Strata Glass (30mm). There is very little Sunbrella around the sides. Two of the side panels can be replaced by screens. The two back pieces either side of the swim platform wrap around to the sides about 6 inches. This alleviates the standard 5 zipper junction at the back corner. The top turns the corner to come down on the sides about 4 inches. The sides and back pieces zip up under the top's overhang. It should be water tight from all angles. There is no light coming through the junctions.

It literally triples the usable entertaining space in the boat.
 
It's still early there - I'll try again later, thanks!

I ran an experiment overnight. I took two samples of Strata and one of 30 mil extruded and sprayed on crap from under my wife's sink and my daughters' sink.

Nail Polish Remover
Mosquito repellent
Spray on Sunscreen
Nair

In each case, the Strata held up better than the 30mm extruded plastic.

I went with the Strata.

That's funny... and a really good experiment/idea.

I'm ordering new canvas tomorrow for my boat and putting strataglass on. I'm just going with the OEM guys as I have all the factory paper templates they made and they said to just mail them back to them. I really don't have any "canvas" on the bridge anyway and it's all clear so I might as well go with the OEM dudes.
 

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