Winterizing Nightmare 1997 Sundancer 240

I've had this happen a couple of times. You broke the bendix. It gives before the flywheel does. The fun part for you now is that you have to use a magnet, and fish the broken pieces of bendix out of the bell housing. You must get all the pieces out, or you could have problems down the road. Have fun!
 
ok so the worst possible thing happen. Multiple teeth gone on the flywheel. Not sure how much this would cost, how much to pull an engine and replace a flywheel?
 
I would want to know exactly how water got into the cylinders first. Otherwise you may be replacing that flywheel more than once, or worse.
 
Is this boat raw water cooled as I suspected? This could be backflow through a bad exhaust riser/Manifold/elbow into an exhaust port no? Then down into the cyliders with those valves in the open position when the water was turned on? This is just the first thought that comes to me. I'm sure there are many more that the true motor heads will be able to expand on.
 
Sorry for your troubles,

Sound to me that you hydro locked your engine by forcing too much water into the cooling system with the engine not running.
This can happen very quickly with any marine engine or generator.
It could happen even if the engine is running, if the motor cant expel the water coming in fast enough.

Regardless of how it happened, now you should pickle the engine http://www.boatus.com/hurricanes/pickle.asp and remove it for inspection and repair.
Repair may include new:
starter.
ring gear.
manifold and elbows (good time while its out)
Maybe a valve job (check compression to see)

Best of luck,
Mark.
 
Last edited:
Air O'Nautical said:
Sorry for your troubles,

Sound to me that you hydro locked your engine by forcing too much water into the cooling system with the engine not running.
This can happen very quickly with any marine engine or generator.
It could happen even if the engine is running, if the motor cant expel the water coming in fast enough.
Click to expand...

Wow. I did not know this could happen. Never read anything like it.
 
Stripping flywheel teeth is NOT the worst thing... you could have bent or broken connecting rods IF teeth did not go first. BTW, it is very easy to hydro lock any engine when you force water into the exhaust with engine not running (i.e. on muffs)... If you had full flow on the hose, you basically pumped 30+ psi of water against the impeller which entered your exhaust system at the mixing elbow. If engine is not running and there is no exhaust gas coming out the engine, that water will flow into the manifold and into the egine through whathever exhaust vales are open. Happens often to many... one of the reasons why you should never crank your engine for too long without starting...
 
Wow, I also didn't know that you could do this! I thought if the impeller wasn't turning in my old Alpha one, then the water couldn't flow. My water pressure on the house was closer to 70 PSI too!! I winterized my old 260 DA in this manner for 20 or so years without ever having a problem like this. I guess I just got lucky, very lucky.
 
This isn't right! Muffs are fine.... Water won't get past the pump unless motor is running!
 
I broke the teeth on one of my starter. No idea how. The starter was held in place by 2 bolts and there are wires attached. Take and print some pictures of the starter in place. Disconnect both wires on all your batteries. Do not have your boat pluged into shore power. Remove the bolts on the starter. You may need to tap the starter with a rubber hammer to get it loose. Thake it to a shop that rebuilds marine starters and get them to rebuild it. I paid 175 to get mine done. A new one was around 300.
 
wish2fish said:
what about when fins are missing.
Click to expand...

If your impeller is missing vanes, then potentially! I tend to think at least with my muffs that the route of least resistance is out on muffs and down the outdrives unless the motor is running!
 
If your manifolds and risers are in good shape you would be able to run water through your cooling system all day long without starting the engine. The water exits the risers far enough back that that the water drops straight down and out the exhaust. Now if your manifolds are old and rusty then you might have a leak at the Manifold/Riser joint (very common) which would allow water that was sitting in the riser to drain back towards the engine‘s exhaust ports and into the heads.
 
saopm said:
If your manifolds and risers are in good shape you would be able to run water through your cooling system all day long without starting the engine. The water exits the risers far enough back that that the water drops straight down and out the exhaust. Now if your manifolds are old and rusty then you might have a leak at the Manifold/Riser joint (very common) which would allow water that was sitting in the riser to drain back towards the engine‘s exhaust ports and into the heads.
Click to expand...


That's what I was thinking in one of my earlier posts!!!
 
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