Westerbeke 7.0Bcg issues

I'm very curious why so many boaters have a tough time starting their gensets?

Doug
I dont think it is so much a "tough time" as it is that the genset just doesn't fire up like the main engine(s). That may be a big part of the owners experience/reaction.

This should be expected if the genset engine is not run like the mains. Most are carburator engines and the bowl is dry and the iron is cold from long periods of non use. An electric start lawn mower has the same behavior if it sits for a period of time. You will need more prime, more choke, more crank today than you will tomorrow.

I think a smaller engine will be more symptomatic than a larger one as well in regards to temps and sitting unused time periods. I experienced this in a V12 auto I owned. The V12 was smooth starting all the time regardless of temp.

The one thing that is for sure the more one uses the easier(quicker) they start assuming well tuned, good fuel. BTW . . . well tuned and good fuel are, or should be, the beginning.
 
I dont think it is so much a "tough time" as it is that the genset just doesn't fire up like the main engine(s). That may be a big part of the owners experience/reaction.

This should be expected if the genset engine is not run like the mains. Most are carburator engines and the bowl is dry and the iron is cold from long periods of non use. An electric start lawn mower has the same behavior if it sits for a period of time. You will need more prime, more choke, more crank today than you will tomorrow.

I think a smaller engine will be more symptomatic than a larger one as well in regards to temps and sitting unused time periods. I experienced this in a V12 auto I owned. The V12 was smooth starting all the time regardless of temp.

The one thing that is for sure the more one uses the easier(quicker) they start assuming well tuned, good fuel. BTW . . . well tuned and good fuel are, or should be, the beginning.

You do bring up some good points. I know personally with anything that I've ever owned/maintained I've never had issues like people have described here (that's why I'm intrigued). I guess everyone's maintenance regiment plays a big role as well.

Doug
 
It's not always maintenance. Until, I discovered through trial and error the ER starting procedure, I thought the product was not very good. Call it ignorance or whatever, after I figured the procedure out, no problems at all. BTW, none of that was explained in the owner's guide.
 
It's not always maintenance. Until, I discovered through trial and error the ER starting procedure, I thought the product was not very good. Call it ignorance or whatever, after I figured the procedure out, no problems at all. BTW, none of that was explained in the owner's guide.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't putting you or anyone else down concerning maintaining your gensets. :thumbsup:

Doug
 
We have a 7.2BCGTC ? which I don't know how it differs from a 7.0BCG.
Ok with ours we get the shaking when it shuts down due to it wobbling on its mounts.
Ours is a real trick to start also. We have one rocker switch with 3 detents. The manual describes the starting procedure as click to on position and then tap the crank position. The light will start to blink as the fuel pump primes and the choke closes. When the light starts to blink fast hold the start position until it starts. Only problem is when ours starts blinking fast the choke is released and the genny will not start. I have to shut the switch back off to reset everything. I then click the switch on, then tap the crank position to close the choke, then hold the crank position (not waiting for the fast blink this time) till it starts. I don't know why the choke opens once the fuel pump is done priming? It should remain closed till then engine starts? The genny is hard starting when its cold or hasn't been run for a while but only requires longer crank times. Usually always fires on the first try which sometimes requires 5 second or longer crank.

I'm mystified about your switch configuration. The operators manual for your unit shows two switches: 1) an "on" switch (which some configurations label "preheat") and a 2) Stop Run Start switch with two momentary (Stop, Start) detents. Is it true you only have one switch?

-John
 
John,

Yes, for the remote. It's the same 3-position rocker as the dash-mounted switches for the mains.

They're a bit notorious, because SeaRay try to do too many things at once. I have similar symptoms as Skuza, but for different reasons. My remote switch doesn't activate the fuel pump.
 
Yes PlayDate there is only one switch. Our last boat which was a '97 400EC had the preheat switch and that one was easier to start than this one. I figured out my specific starting regimen by trial and error.
 
I assume WB owners know about the technical service bulletin on fuel filters. No more paper element filters are to be used. e10 dissolves the glue in the element and this leads to carburator problems. The recommended replacement looks like it is made out of bronze mesh. I'd be tempted to re-use it after soaking it in solvent. The last two used ones have looked just like the new one out of the box.

Anyone know where the new filters can be purchased?
 
The problem of hard starting for my generator has to relate to a fuel issue. Like I said earlier, once the generator has started (After priming it) I can come back the next day without priming it and it will start right off. You wait a week later and then I am back to square one. The choke is working and the fuel pump is coming on. After replacing the points,sparkplugs ,wireset,fuel pump,rotor and rotor cap, I would think the next best thing, as it was mentioned by Playdate and Doug, is the carbutor and fuel solenoid.
 
The problem of hard starting for my generator has to relate to a fuel issue. Like I said earlier, once the generator has started (After priming it) I can come back the next day without priming it and it will start right off. You wait a week later and then I am back to square one. The choke is working and the fuel pump is coming on. After replacing the points,sparkplugs ,wireset,fuel pump,rotor and rotor cap, I would think the next best thing, as it was mentioned by Playdate and Doug, is the carbutor and fuel solenoid.
I don't think you will ever solve that PROBLEM/ISSUE. After a week of sitting the fuel evaporates in the carburetor . . . it will need a prime. I just don’t see a problem. I think it is characteristic of a carbureted engine.
 
Anyone know where the new filters can be purchased?
Your authorized WB service representative has them. If you do not have a WB dealer near you I can put you in touch with the dealer I buy mine from. PM me if you need help.
 
My remote switch doesn't activate the fuel pump.


This is the case with my switch as well. This is why I need to stand in the engine room to activate the top toggle for several seconds prior to activating the bottom toggle that cranks the engine. Odd set up, but once you figure it out, these gennys start right up. Only need to do it one time and then you are set for all day. It also is a good excuse to look around the ER once you are down the ladder.
 
If you don't mine. I would like to order one. I am just wondering if it would fit the filter adapter that I have already.


Your authorized WB service representative has them. If you do not have a WB dealer near you I can put you in touch with the dealer I buy mine from. PM me if you need help.
 
I have a 97' 370 Da with a westerbeke 7.0 BCG generator (carburator). It seems to have a problem starting, than it runs ok for the rest of the day. I think it shakes more than it should while running. It is when I turned the generator off (no Load) that it shakes quit a lot before it stops. You can fill it though out the boat. I have replaced rotor,rotorcap,points,plug wire set,sparkplugs and fuel pump. The choke solenoid is operating when I press on the switch. I am wondering if the fuel solenoid might have a problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ted, this issue has plagued me since Beach House came into my life in 2003. Last weekend while attending to a leaking seal on the raw water pump, I decided to check around on the long crank time issue since I had not started it yet, and it had been a good week since the last run.
First, I unscrewed the fuel/water separator, as I have always felt that there may be some backflow, or evaporation that allows an air gap in the filter. Sure enough, the gas was down at least 1/4" from the top of the filter. I screwed it back on, and proceeded with a cold start. While depressing the fuel pump/choke/oil pressure bypass switch (On), I noticed that the solenoid that pulls the choke butterfly closed was only closing about 10-20%. ( I had to remove the flame arrestor to see this, but don't do that while cranking.) While cranking the gen at the main panel, I pushed the solenoid ram in with my finger, closing the butterfly, and it started immediately. hmmmm. I am thinking now that possible slight mechanical misalignment, or some other kind of binding from corrosion might be preventing the solenoid from pulling the ram in completely. This theory sits well with warm starts working just fine.

I will post my findings as I come across them.
 
Hi,
I have the 1995 370 sundancer. Weasterbeke 5.0, I'm having difficulty keeping it running. When I let up off the pre-heat button, the engine stalls out within 10 seconds..No ones seems to know why..any input would be greatly appreciated...Also, I'm moving to Florida next year and want to seel my boat prior to exiting this state. Any suggestions on the bet avenue to advertise, when and where...Many thanks.
 
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Ted, this issue has plagued me since Beach House came into my life in 2003. Last weekend while attending to a leaking seal on the raw water pump, I decided to check around on the long crank time issue since I had not started it yet, and it had been a good week since the last run.
First, I unscrewed the fuel/water separator, as I have always felt that there may be some backflow, or evaporation that allows an air gap in the filter. Sure enough, the gas was down at least 1/4" from the top of the filter. I screwed it back on, and proceeded with a cold start. While depressing the fuel pump/choke/oil pressure bypass switch (On), I noticed that the solenoid that pulls the choke butterfly closed was only closing about 10-20%. ( I had to remove the flame arrestor to see this, but don't do that while cranking.) While cranking the gen at the main panel, I pushed the solenoid ram in with my finger, closing the butterfly, and it started immediately. hmmmm. I am thinking now that possible slight mechanical misalignment, or some other kind of binding from corrosion might be preventing the solenoid from pulling the ram in completely. This theory sits well with warm starts working just fine.

I will post my findings as I come across them.

370dancer, I am still working with the generator after a year. finally getting back to working on the boat. You have some good ideas that I will start investigating.
 
Ok, everyone. We were on the boat this weekend and I noticed the bottle for the overflow was empty. Should this be full when in only being used?
 
Ok, everyone. We were on the boat this weekend and I noticed the bottle for the overflow was empty. Should this be full when in only being used?

No. There should be a min and max mark on the bottle. Ideal is in the middle when cold. Should never be below the min. Sometimes when you change the antifreeze it takes a while to get to this state as air is introduced into the cooling system. My experience has been this issue goes away after running the genny for a few minutes and then shutting it down. If this continues, you have a leak somewhere.
 
You could have been slightly on the low side to begin with and now with the colder temperatures, the level will drop slighty more.

Doug
 

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