Vetus Bow Thruster - Dead (?)

Disconnectedthe power wires to the Charles converter and wired in a standard 3 prong (grounded) plug and plugged it into an outlet. It works. So whatever breaker it's connected to is off. The AC line leading to it goes through the bulkhead into the area of the HWH but it does not appear to be connected to that line. It moves forward and disappears under the salon sole. Didn't spend any time tracing it but the fridge and the microwave are on that (port side) of the boat and both those breakers are off. I didn't feel like flipping on each breaker and going back in the hole to put a meter on the wires. Just not that important right now and my legs hurt.

Took home the joystick. All sorts of circuitry in there and a couple of microswitches. Connected the multimeter to the plug to check for continuity and got no readings at all with every possible combination/permutation of the 4 prongs. Guess it's dead...I guess (?) Could be that it needs power? I don't know. My kingdom for a wiring schematic!!!!

DSCN2103_zps9d6fca11.jpg
 
Re-animating this thread...
Couple of mysteries solved.
1. There is a schematic at the back of the owner's manual. Not really much help, other than clarifying that there is no other brains/circuitry in the system, other that what's in the joystick
2. The geniuses who installed the thruster got AC power for the the converter from the refrigerator breaker circuit. So when the fridge breaker is on, there's 120v at the converter.
3. bought and tried new joystick. STILL DEAD.

The new joystick powers up, beeps the correct sequence (as per the installation instructions). This means there is voltage getting to the joystick. Would seem that the voltage is not getting from the joystick back down to the solenoid. Bad wiring harness? Here's what the harness looks like

bp29_3.jpg


Only difference is that, on mine, the plugs were both cut off and re-connected, probably b/c they had to remove them to fish the wire from the helm down to the area just aft of the v-berth. Today's task is to check for continuity of each wire from one end of the harness to the other. If that's OK then I don't know where to go from here. BTW, the batteries are now charged up to 27volts, so I can't even blame it on the 25v I was getting in last Fall (the lower voltage was likely b/c I had emptied and shut down the fridges well before I had the boat hauled). Thought about buying a new harness and rigging it up just to rule out a bad cable but not just yet. This thing is $90.

Here's the other challenge - I defy you to find a technical service phone number for this company. The phone # on all the literature is for The Netherlands. There are distributors but I haven't tried those numbers yet and I'm sure they'll be really grumpy or clueless if I ask them for techincal information.
 
Looking at the parts diagram. BOW9524C
Item #14 - THERMAL PROTECTION. Hmmmmmmm??

Post #1, third photo - diodes...Maybe these things blew out. If they are intact, would there be continuity across the diode (or whatever it is)??
 
Ron,
From your diagnostics so far it does not appear that the brushes would be at fault, but you never mention checking them. They are a wear item and can get hung up. I would look for the he'll of it.
 
Fred
The motor was spinning when the solenoids were jumped so the brushes should be ok.

BIG MYSTERY SOLVED today. One of the terminals of the cable did not have continuity with it's counter part at the other end. The plug at the motor was bad. The when I started tinkering with it after I realized there was no continuity the wire broke out of the plug. I jury rigged it up after stripping some insulation and shoving it inside the plug, went back to the helm and installed the new joystick and it worked. EUREKA!!!

So, for now, I have the wire jammed in there and sealed in place with silicone. Don't anyone tell Frank W.

Need to find a replacement plug. Speaking to my Dad, who insisted on doing an autopsy on the old joystick and he says they are Molex plugs. Quick google search reveals this, listed as a mobile home repair item. Exactly what I need (note the flat at the bottom of the two end plugs). Just have to find who sells them.

50-84-1040.jpg



Here's what's on there. I need the top one...
Molex1_zpsc4fc042e.jpg
 
Found it. Does it come with the metal crimp connecters that fit inside the tubes? The part listing is vague...

NEWARK

4978690.jpg
 
It won't have the metal crimp connectors with it as there are different options for connector type and the crimp connectors come on a tape and reel for automated equipment.
 
OK. I've been on the Molex website for an hour trying to figure out what I need. They do sell them "loose" as well (those have a "L" designation after the part #). I'll call Newark on Monday to be sure I get the right stuff. Thanks!
 
Looks like the terminals are only sold in reels of 4000. At around 5 cents a pop. A bit more than I was looking to spend. I'm going to have to call them and see how this works. I wish I could just buy the damn plug already assembled with wire leads hanging out of the end.
 
Westie
I need the female (02-08-1004), but you are right, I see now they are available as single pieces. How did I miss that? I was all over that site and many others (from googling the part number) and they all had minimum of 4000. GOOD GRIEF, I've been staring at this stuff for WAY too long.

Thanks again!
 
I've never order from Newark but the other two that I listed will send things over night for only a small charge (even to Canada). We use them alot at work for getting parts quick for prototypes.
 
My Dad is a Ham radio geek and he says all the Ham's order from Newark. Also a friend whose business is designing and installing security systems in hospitals, auto dealerships, etc. recommended them. There's no hurry on this stuff. I'm somewhat grounded with a leaking cool fuel 3 unit anyway. Boats are such a pain in the arse.
 
You need a diesel boat Ron!
 
Ken, it's funny but I have been very fortunate with all of my boats - never really had any big problems with engines. I've always been able to be proactive with issues, whihc generally prevents disaster and keeps admirals and crew blissfully happy. This thing was a known issue that I had researched when I was looking at 380s and in my mind, I knew I would one day have to deal with it. Diesel, gas, steam, nuclear...it just don't matter. It's a boat and there will always be some stupid issue to figure out!
 
Ron I believe the Molex pins need a special crimping tool. But for a small job you may get by without one. I got by without one on the Deutsch connectors that I needed for my new aft vacuum generator.
 
rondds said:
Ken, it's funny but I have been very fortunate with all of my boats - never really had any big problems with engines. I've always been able to be proactive with issues, whihc generally prevents disaster and keeps admirals and crew blissfully happy. This thing was a known issue that I had researched when I was looking at 380s and in my mind, I knew I would one day have to deal with it. Diesel, gas, steam, nuclear...it just don't matter. It's a boat and there will always be some stupid issue to figure out!
Click to expand...
This is unfortunately true. The best we can do is perform preventative maintenance to make it less likely to happen unexpectedly I guess. I would love to try a nuclear powered Sea Ray though!
 
rondds said:
"................................... It's a boat and there will always be some stupid issue to figure out!
Click to expand...

I have a solution to that one, Ron............Find a boat you are thoroughly happy with in terns of design, utility, efficiency, handling, etc. then keep it in like new condition and at some point you become thoroughly familiar with every nut, bolt, screw, and component on it as you maintain, wear out, break or screw up stuff.
 
Frank
Had that, now in the process of working towards it again!
 
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