Updating larger cruisers

Thank you Ed

The flooring is standard Home Depot stuff. The flooring on the 580 interlocks and is assembled floating on the original carpet pad. They fit together very tightly and walking on it feels very solid and secure. It is screwed in place in certain strategic placed (near hatches etc) The screws are countersunk into the wood and then filled and stained to match the wood. You can't even find them.

I believe I put a link up to the source of the cabinet wood.
If not I will find it for you.

The floor is not that hard to do and makes a dramatic difference. Plus the carpet in a five or six year old boat is usually due for replacing anyway. Replacing carpet in one of these boats is not easy. Sometimes at the factory they carpet sections of the cabin and then install cabinets over the carpet.
 
Geriksen,
You have inspired me to investigate the veneer for my 400DB. Teak flooring is my 1st project, then I will start on the cabinets. If you don't mind, could you find out what contact cement was used? From an earlier post, it sounded like it was a bit of trial and error before the right brand was determined. Also, veneer comes in different thickness. I think 10mil or thicker? Maybe a recommendation on the correct thickness if your cabinet specialist would be so kind as to share his secrets.
Also, do you know if it is possible to sand down the brass plating on the SR pop out drawer knobs and polish them?

Thanks!!!
 
The other question I had was how do you finish the veneer when two veneered surfaces meet (90 degree angle)?

Doug
 
Doug, I am no expert, nor have I tried this.... but from what I have read you overlap one surface, then use a hard round surface (screwdriver shaft) back and forth to bend that surface over the mating surface. This will put a crease the overlaped surface. Then you use a sanding block at a 45 degree angle to sand through the crease, thus cutting the overlapped veneer.
It makes sense in my mind, but you may have no idea what I am talking about due to my discription.... sorry,
If anyone has any first hand knowledge please correct me if there is a better way.
 
I am also curious if a peel and stick veneer would work... it would stick really well to the shiny white laminate that is currently on the cabinets. Much cleaner than contact cement.
 
Last edited:
dgrumm said:
Doug, I am no expert, nor have I tried this.... but from what I have read you overlap one surface, then use a hard round surface (screwdriver shaft) back and forth to bend that surface over the mating surface. This will put a crease the overlaped surface. Then you use a sanding block at a 45 degree angle to sand through the crease, thus cutting the overlapped veneer.
It makes sense in my mind, but you may have no idea what I am talking about due to my discription.... sorry,
If anyone has any first hand knowledge please correct me if there is a better way.
Click to expand...

I totally understand what you're saying. Sounds logical, but I have no experience either.

Doug
 
Once you set up your photo bucket album, take the photos "my pictures" om your computer and download them to Photobucket. What some people forget is to select "large" (it defaults to extra large). This makes them big enough without making them too big.

Very impressive work! The interior shots look beautiful!
 
Ok...This post is worth bring back from the dead. There is some really nice work on here. If anyone has tried the veneer on cabinets and any mods to the interior, please show pics before and after. Would love to hear technique details.
 
Great shots and work on the 500. I'd be interested to see more on the 580 as it unfolds.

Paul
 
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