To wax or Polish?

sreill

sreill

New Member
Jul 18, 2008
104
Long Island, NY
Boat Info
sundeck
Engines
496 mag
I was watching an old episode of ship shape tv and they had they pres of shurhold industries on there.

He said that todays polymer polishes are better than wax because they adhere to the hull and give longer protection.

I was always under the impression that polishes were not protectants...more cleaners and then the wax was the protectant.

Any input into this?
 
I use Zaino. Zaino is not a polish or a wax. It is a synthetic product that offers an amazing finish and it has UV protection. I had used it on my cars for years and is all I use on my boat. It is the easiest to apply and offers the most distortion free shine of all. It also provides a finish that outlast wax. This might be because it is a man made synthetic product.

I understand the following. The first step would be to clean a surface and therefore make it free of oxidation. The next step would be to polish the finish to perfection. The final step would be to wax. Polishing a surface and waxing a surface are really two different things on a boat/car. I don’t doubt there really is such a product that could remove oxidation and wax at the same time. The oxidation, once removed, ends up on a cloth or buffing wheel. That product has to go somewhere and it does not make since to mix with wax and call that a finishing product. I would always consider removing oxidation as one step by itself.
 
To confuse the issue a bit more - there are different types of polishes out there. Some polishes are designed to enhance the shine and some are a combination of a polish and sealant. Something like Meguiars #45 Polish is just a polish and must have a protective coating applied over it. Not sure which Shurhold product they were using - but I know their Propolish is advertised as a sealant/polish in a single step. I think you're better off with separate products if you have the time - but that's just another debate....
 
HIFI said:
I use Zaino. Zaino is not a polish or a wax. It is a synthetic product that offers an amazing finish and it has UV protection. I had used it on my cars for years and is all I use on my boat. It is the easiest to apply and offers the most distortion free shine of all. It also provides a finish that outlast wax. This might be because it is a man made synthetic product.

I understand the following. The first step would be to clean a surface and therefore make it free of oxidation. The next step would be to polish the finish to perfection. The final step would be to wax. Polishing a surface and waxing a surface are really two different things on a boat/car. I don’t doubt there really is such a product that could remove oxidation and wax at the same time. The oxidation, once removed, ends up on a cloth or buffing wheel. That product has to go somewhere and it does not make since to mix with wax and call that a finishing product. I would always consider removing oxidation as one step by itself.
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Ditto, I've used Zaino now for almost 10 yrs on my vehicles, and just as long on my boats. Incredible protection and longevity over wax and ease of use over most waxes I've seen or tried. And I've tried many over my 30+ yrs of car finish maintenance. The biggest thing is to make sure you prep the surface first, take care of any dirt(wash and clay) or oxidation(compounds as req'd), then hit it with Zaino to protect it from there forward. I only do my boats twice a yr (again, northern climes for me) and my vehicles I do 2-3 times /yr - and it holds up through our tough winter up here better than anything else I've used, through all the ice/snow/rain/salt!

-VtSeaRay
 
I think of the products in terms of the "Classics" and the new Polymers. In the classic sense of boat care, you compound away imperfections leaving bare gel coat, then, you add a polish which provides oils and minerals to keep the gel healthy, then you coat it with a wax to seal in the polish and protect the surface from the environment.

With new polymers, it's a different process. There is no wax in the system.

I've just started using Leverage Products, available at this site's store. They are a lot easier and so far, are very impressive.
 
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My boat has such a dull finish on the deck and hull sides that it seems to "soak up" or "stain" instead of just getting dirty. If I walk on the deck with muddy shoes the marks don't just hose off, you have to really scrub them. I bought a DeWalt buffer and hit the sides with polish (the old school) and then some wax. Now what about the deck? Can I go over it by hand with the polish you guys are talkin about and get some protection? Anyone else have this issue?
 
I'm sure you would get some protection, but at some point, in order to get back the original shine, you'll need to take a rotary buffer, a wool pad, and a compound to get back to the original surface. Then, you'll be able to wipe on a polish or go with a polish and wax to keep it looking great.
 
sfergson727 said:
your impressions are not correct. The polish I use (starbrite with PTEF) acts as a cleaner and protectant, and is far superior to any wax I have come across. I have spoken with the president of Starbrite about the polish, and he stated in no uncertain terms that wax was not needed. I have gotten by with 2 coats of polish for an entire season. Being the compulsive type that I am, I've applied 6 coats, so by my calculations the boat should be protected for the next ten years. :grin: Seriously though, after using the polish now for the last decade, all the boats I have used it on have or had zero oxidation problems, wipe clean with a dry towel, and need no attention for at least 6 months at a time. (based on 2 coats) True, I do boat in northern climes, but the president of Starbrite has assured me that they work just as well in dixie-land.

Starbrite does make a cleaner wax, but that is mainly for oxidation removal, they still recommend applying polish after waxing.
Click to expand...

I use the Starbrite as well, and swear by it.
BoatWaxing051.jpg
 
berth control said:
My boat has such a dull finish on the deck and hull sides that it seems to "soak up" or "stain" instead of just getting dirty. If I walk on the deck with muddy shoes the marks don't just hose off, you have to really scrub them. I bought a DeWalt buffer and hit the sides with polish (the old school) and then some wax. Now what about the deck? Can I go over it by hand with the polish you guys are talkin about and get some protection? Anyone else have this issue?
Click to expand...
Sounds like you need to take John(Hampton)'s recommendation and buff (machine or hand) that out on top too if you want to get back to the original finish, then put polish or wax on top to protect it from there forward.
 
Someone shared with me that polishing is an action and that there are polishing products that help you administer the job. Polishing compounds, as they are, help do the job of polishing. Polishing in itself is prepping of the surface. I think about a piece of gold. The polishing of the gold is to make it free of defect.

With that said I think of polishing fiberglass as making it free of defect. I don’t think of polishing as a product that should stay on the surface. I think more of an "action".

Once your surface is free or as near free from defects it is a recommended by many companies to wash surface with a solution of dishwashing soap and water. This would take any residual polish product (oils, compounds) off the surface. That would be the best opportunity for your favorite wax or my favorite ZAINO to attach to surface.
 
sfergson727 said:
Well, this is just me, but I apply the polish over the whole boat, non-skid included. The problem is, although the non-skid looks beautiful, and will never oxidize, or allow anything to stain it, it is no longer non-skid. (In fact, it gets pretty darn slippery) But I would not change what I am doing. Even if I someday fall overboard due to my polishing, I will admire the boat as it continues on it's way as I tread water, waiting for someone to notice I am no longer aboard.

Don't get me wrong, you won't slip and fall if you use caution, but if you try to leap rather than step on to my boat from the dock, unless you catch a railing, you are going for a swim.
Click to expand...

Now that is funny Scott, I do the same thing and everyone thought I was crazy. I will not do the swim platform anymore; it is rather embarrassing when you are pulling up the dingy and all of the sudden you find yourself in the water under the dingy!!:wow:
 
Does some one have the best procedure on applying Meguiars? I have the polish, the flaghsip wax, and the pure wax. Last year a member had like an 8 step process on how best to apply.
 
Probably me.

If your surface is in pretty good shape, the polish will be used to treat the gel coat and the wax will protect it. If this is the case, there aren't many steps.

If I remember correctly, Meguir's Polish does not have compound in it. If this is the case, I would use a random orbital buffer with the second to finest (2nd softest) pad on a relatively high setting. After washing and drying, apply the polish like you're waxing a car. Go over a couple of times as required. Follow the directions. Wipe or buff clean.

Using the random orbital and the finest (softest) pad, apply the flagship wax. Leave the pure wax near by to observe the way a 20th century wax is used. It's just like waxing a car. Put it on, work it in, allow to dry to a haze, then buff off with a soft towel. Add a second coat if desired/required (shouldn't be required).

If your gel is slightly oxidized, search this site for details. I would start with a compound and a heavier pad on a random orbital, or if available, a rotary buffer with a wool pad. Don't ever use anything more aggressive than required to get the desired shine. Every step more aggressive than wax must be followed by every step on the way to wax.

1) Sand using a rock (not really)
2) Sand using dry paper (extremely rare application for professionals)
3) Wet Sand with 200 (very rough finish)
4) Wet Sand with 400 (rough), 600 (moderate), 800 (light), 1000 (fine), or higher, in that order - Never sand outside the area absolutely required. You will regret it. If you can catch a scratch with your fingernail, fill with gel before sanding
5) Compound with aggressive compound, rotary buffer, and wool pad
6) Compound with moderate compound, rotary buffer, and wool pad - repeat 'til shiny
7) Polish with moderate pad and random orbital
8) Seal with wax, light pad, and random orbital
9) Open beer, stand back, and admire
10) Take pictures and post here
 
Hampton said:
Probably me.

If your surface is in pretty good shape, the polish will be used to treat the gel coat and the wax will protect it. If this is the case, there aren't many steps.

If I remember correctly, Meguir's Polish does not have compound in it. If this is the case, I would use a random orbital buffer with the second to finest (2nd softest) pad on a relatively high setting. After washing and drying, apply the polish like you're waxing a car. Go over a couple of times as required. Follow the directions. Wipe or buff clean.

Using the random orbital and the finest (softest) pad, apply the flagship wax. Leave the pure wax near by to observe the way a 20th century wax is used. It's just like waxing a car. Put it on, work it in, allow to dry to a haze, then buff off with a soft towel. Add a second coat if desired/required (shouldn't be required).

If your gel is slightly oxidized, search this site for details. I would start with a compound and a heavier pad on a random orbital, or if available, a rotary buffer with a wool pad. Don't ever use anything more aggressive than required to get the desired shine. Every step more aggressive than wax must be followed by every step on the way to wax.

1) Sand using a rock (not really)
2) Sand using dry paper (extremely rare application for professionals)
3) Wet Sand with 200 (very rough finish)
4) Wet Sand with 400 (rough), 600 (moderate), 800 (light), 1000 (fine), or higher, in that order - Never sand outside the area absolutely required. You will regret it. If you can catch a scratch with your fingernail, fill with gel before sanding
5) Compound with aggressive compound, rotary buffer, and wool pad
6) Compound with moderate compound, rotary buffer, and wool pad - repeat 'til shiny
7) Polish with moderate pad and random orbital
8) Seal with wax, light pad, and random orbital
9) Open beer, stand back, and admire
10) Take pictures and post here
Click to expand...
Well done summary.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the help guys - much appreciated. Looks like I have some work ahead of me! I don't mind the stuff that takes some elbow grease and not a lot of money though.
 
Anyone ever use the Meguiars three step system that comes in thre blue bottles contained in a blue box. First Step : Oxidation removal Second Step: Polish Third Step: Pure Wax. I have used it the last three years and she really looks shiny most of the season.
 
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