Survey's in...about to buy this '09 350DA, but..

Ethan's Tank said:
wow lots of info...ill have to re-read this again

Out of curiousity, were you the cash buyer they declined on the deal...I wasnt sure why they did that and just took my offer instead...
Click to expand...

By upper management I mean my wife!
 
Re-reading this entire post got me thinking more. In addition to being absolutely sure about the moisture, make sure the drives are in top shape also. You haven't mentioned if there is any corrosion. Here are some other things to check:
- Are the gimbal bearings ok (no growl when you steer hard left to hard right in neutral)?
- Steering linkages tight?
- Trim indicators and limits work properly (more expensive to replace than bellows!)?
- Any drive lube leaks? Check the lube level (take a picture), drive the crap out of the boat for an hour or two on plane, take another picture...they should be the same before and after. A leaking prop shaft seal can be a big issue to replace if there is significant corrosion.
- No leaks around the trim rams?

Others can likely chime-in on this one...

Many owners seem to always neglect regular maintenance on outdrives for some reason.
 
sfergson727 said:
So, let me get this straight....you want a turn key boat from the broker, but you aren't willing to give him a turn key boat in your current vessel? Pay the $1200 and be done with it.

You can't have your cake and eat it too....IMHO of course.
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:wow:This is silly thinking Sferg...truth be known I doubt they figure they're giving him anything for his boat and are trying to weasel a few more bucks on top of it. It's not clear how the concerns on the 350 are being handled, in particular the moisture readings...he needs better answers on that than it sounds like he's getting...I'd walk, most certainly wouldn't pay more.
 
dpmulvey said:
<"...The dealer told me the newer searays don't use the balsa wood anymore..."> The boat is an '09. It's 6 years old. How new is newer? What material is SR using in its "newer" boats. More specifically, what were they using in 2009.

Moisture is moisture. It belongs outside the boat, not between the layers of glas regardless of the material between the layers. Moisture consistantly against laid up glas is a potential failure point via delamination. I don't know if moisture can cause blisters from the inside out.
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I'm trying to see where I can research that info...maybe have to call searay and find out, but when he said older boats, he meant like 2002 and older

I did email my surveyor back to see if he has any insight on this issue
 
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Here is the conclusion to the survey, this may help out:
CONCLUSION
The 2009 Sea Ray 350 Sundancer, with twin 375 hp, 496 ci, gas inboard engines and Bravo III
outdrives, outlined in this report, was found in well above average, very low hour condition.
Structurally she appeared in close to new condition, including her hull to deck joint where visible.
Hull sides and bottom sounded strong. No signs of bottom blistering, delamination or damage
were found. All below waterline hardware was found in good order, with no signs of galvanic
corrosion. Outdrives are clean and free of corrosion.
Decks were found average to slightly better than average, offering a few localized areas of
elevated moisture, but all soundings are good. All decks are in good, safe and serviceable
condition.
Engines and associated machinery started easily and appeared in good, low hour condition.
Engines are extremely clean and well cared for. As mentioned, Bravo III Duo-prop outdrives
appeared in good condition and shifted properly. It is time to replace all lower unit anodes and
replace the missing starboard shaft bullet anode.
Generator has only 11.3 hrs logged, and looks like new. All onboard AC/125 volt, 30 amp
systems functioned properly. All interior outlets are properly grounded and ground fault protected
where needed.
DC, 12 volt systems are well executed. All required 12 volt systems functioned, less the weak
horn and no VHF/FM radio transmission could be proven.
Aluminum fuel tank and A1 hose fuel distribution looked good. Tank is properly bonded to the
deck fill plate and properly grounded to the engines.
Hot and cold potable water system functioned well, although no water was found at the stern
swim shower.
Vacu-flush fresh water flush head, vacuum generator, plastic holding tank and dockside pump-out
system all appeared good. Head functioned properly.
Interior and exterior cosmetics are better than average. An extensive optional equipment
inventory was found, including Flir night vision, autopilot, 72 mile open array radar/GPS
chartplotter and much more.
 
Finish the deal for crying out loud! Most of us here wish we had a survey like that when buying a used boat. You can keep asking questions until the cows come home, but sooner or later you gotta pull this trigger.

Go boating...have fun...like Scott said.

Mark
 
Slight elevated moisture levels are normal on these boats. Specifically around hatches and top deck windows. I think you're in good shape. Negotiate what you can on the $1200, like warranty, full gas, detail, bottom paint, etc and enjoy that thing.

Sent from my RM-927_nam_vzw_100 using Tapatalk
 
Ethan's Tank said:
I'm trying to see where I can research that info...maybe have to call searay and find out, but when he said older boats, he meant like 2002 and older

I did email my surveyor back to see if he has any insight on this issue
Click to expand...
There's got to be a least a few guys with boats > '02 on CSR that have looked at their windlass from the bottom, I have, I saw what resembles the edge of plywood....Who's re-bedded their foot switches, windlass, or deck hatch?...what did you see for coring Start a new thread on this and the question on coring will be answered quickly.
 
The fact they haven't did a bellows job on this boat prior to trying to sell is telling....it's an extremely important safety and $$$ related item, yet they're willing to turn a new owner loose on the water...let him deal with it. This is a deteriorating boot, zoom in, it's an obvious crack, maybe not leaking yet but still a crack
View attachment 35895
 
Awesome!! Congratulations and I wish you luck with a beautiful boat. I think you're going to love her.

Sent from my RM-927_nam_vzw_100 using Tapatalk
 
For the record, your salesman told you a partial truth……..go figure!

The stringer system is a foam composite material that is model specific on later Sea Rays. The decks are end grain balsa (wood) and the area where the windlass mounts is usually 2 thicknesses of plywood. The areas your surveyor pointed out that concerned are definitely cored with wood.

Some asked wh would have rebedded the windlass and switches…….I did when my boat was 24 months old and the plywood around the windlass and foot switches showed signs of moinsture.I dryer them, sealed them with epoxy and rebedded the windlass and switches with silicone.
 
fwebster said:
For the record, your salesman told you a partial truth……..go figure!

The stringer system is a foam composite material that is model specific on later Sea Rays. The decks are end grain balsa (wood) and the area where the windlass mounts is usually 2 thicknesses of plywood. The areas your surveyor pointed out that concerned are definitely cored with wood.

Some asked wh would have rebedded the windlass and switches…….I did when my boat was 24 months old and the plywood around the windlass and foot switches showed signs of moinsture.I dryer them, sealed them with epoxy and rebedded the windlass and switches with silicone.
Click to expand...

How did you know needed to rebed your windlass again? I don't have a moisture meter and just wanted to make sure the job was done and/or done right
 
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