Survey's in...about to buy this '09 350DA, but..

[Ethan's Tank]

I'm about to sign the dotted line on this 09 SR350DA, price falls in the median, but is overloaded with options. Here are my concerns from my surveyor:

#1. Decks were found in good to better than average condition for the vessel’s age and
manufacturer. As with all boats with some age, the following elevated moisture levels were
found. A. Moderate elevated moisture level noted ahead of the remote control searchlight.
B. Moderate moisture levels noted just aft of the windlass foot switches on the port side deck.
Moisture becomes high aft of the foot switches through the port bow cleat area, then moderates
at the 2nd bow rail base aft. C. High moisture levels detected from the starboard side deck, 3rd bow
rail base aft, then moderates at the spring line cleat. D. Port stern cleat is loose.
#1. Consider rebedding associated
hardware to prevent further moisture ingress to the deck core. Tighten port aft stern cleat.
IMPORTANT. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. PREVENTATIVE. NON-ESSENTIAL


#2. Have a qualified mechanic examine
and repair the bellows if found necessary. Replace all lower unit anodes to insure Bravo III
outdrives are properly protected. Monitor braided stainless steel lower unit trim hoses and replace
when deemed necessary. They appeared good for this season and perhaps more. IMPORTANT.
PREVENTATIVE. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. NON-ESSENTIAL.

#3B. The battery parallel switch did not sound as if it functioned.
#3B. Prove battery parallel function.
IMPORTANT. NON-ESSENTIAL.

#4. Potable water system pressurized and functioned well, but no water was found at the
stern swim shower. #4. Prove swim shower function.
MINOR TO IMPORTANT. NON-ESSENTIAL.



Does anyone know how hard or how much it would be to replace all the lower unit anodes and bellows?

 

[Ethan's Tank]

 

[rondds]

have a qualified mechanic examine
and repair the bellows if found necessary. Replace all lower unit anodes to insure Bravo III
outdrives are properly protected. Monitor braided stainless steel lower unit trim hoses and replace
when deemed necessary. They appeared good for this season and perhaps more.

Wow, that's ambiguous. Looks like he's washing his hands of it and recommending that you have someone else tell you how the bellows are. Bellows is a pretty big job from what I understand. Anodes are easy DIY job but when added up, they could cost a couple of hundred bucks.

 

[Ethan's Tank]

http://s105.photobucket.com/user/ethans_tank/library/?view=recent

 

[Ethan's Tank]

Wow, that's ambiguous. Looks like he's washing his hands of it and recommending that you have someone else tell you how the bellows are. Bellows is a pretty big job from what I understand. Anodes are easy DIY job but when added up, they could cost a couple of hundred bucks.

I've searched the web for anodes and wasn't sure if they sold them in kits, most of the places I seen are sold individually...$10 here $15 there, I can see adds up, just want to make sure I get the right ones. Reminds me of a bushing kits they sell for cars.

I had considered getting the dealer to fix some or all of these to close the deal

 

[saopm]

You should examine the bellows each year before the boat goes in, but it is not likely you would need to replace them at this time.

 

[JimG]

Anodes are easy, I haven't priced them recently, but probably less than $200 for both drives. The bellows are another story... that could get into $1,000 - $2,000 if done by a proper mechanic. Still not a deal breaker... very common periodic maintenance for outdrives.

 

[rondds]

I'll guess you have bravo 3 drives. This is the kit...

http://www.boatzincs.com/bravo2-3-kit.html

 

[skolbe]

A Mercruiser dealer could also get you the anodes. Make sure you install the right type. They are different for freshwater, brackish and saltwater. Anodes ideally should be changed annually. The moisture levels need to be addressed and the hardware needs to be rebedded. Depending on the components that can be a decent amount of work. Depends on access to each component.

 

[magstang1]

Do the anodes yourself. Both drives should be under $300 if you have anodes on everything. Sometimes trim tabs, bearing carriers (behind the props) gimbal rings, trim rams, trim tabs and cavitation plates have anodes. So far on your boat I see cavitation plates and trim rams. You may or may not have the rest.

Zinc for saltwater. Magnesium for fresh water.

Bellows will run you +/- $1000 per drive installed by a mechanic and are a regular maintenance item. Usually every 5-7 years.

 

[sbw1]

I'd be most concerned about the moisture concerns. You don't just rebed fittings in wet areas. You dry them out with the fiiting removed, epoxy the raw edges, and then rebed. Done properly, this can be expensive if you hire a pro. I'm surprised that a newer boat has this issue. It was most likely not well done at the factory. The anodes, zincs etc are routine maintenance issues.

 

[ZZ13]

Ethan, the right anodes for the crappy Potomac River is aluminum. Do not get magnesium. I learned that the hard way.

Everyone I know with BravoIII in the Potomac (including my 300DA) got about 10 years out of their bellows.

Bearing carriers and steering swivel pins are two other BravoIII items that seem to be around 10 year items as well in the Potomac. So you are about half way into that 10 year life of those.

Mercathode check, painting the drives, changing the gear lube, and changing the anodes are all an annual item. Don't skip that maintenance any year.

After this thread you aren't allowed to open any more threads about boats you might buy. Your next thread has to be about the boat you just bought. It's a rule.

Good luck!

 

[ziekman@cox.net]

Ethan, did your Surveyor do a sea trial, what were the results?

 

[Ethan's Tank]

Do the anodes yourself. Both drives should be under $300 if you have anodes on everything. Sometimes trim tabs, bearing carriers (behind the props) gimbal rings, trim rams, trim tabs and cavitation plates have anodes. So far on your boat I see cavitation plates and trim rams. You may or may not have the rest.

Zinc for saltwater. Magnesium for fresh water.

Bellows will run you +/- $1000 per drive installed by a mechanic and are a regular maintenance item. Usually every 5-7 years.

If only my marina would allow me to pull the boat on shore and work on it, I think the rule there is no working on boats in the yard...

 

[magstang1]

Most anodes are one or two bolts. I hardly classify that as "working on the boat".


If worst comes to worst they can be changed in the water.

 

[Ethan's Tank]

Man Ethan, weren't you just looking at the 340, 320 and 290? How in the heck did you get your wife to sign off on the 350? Welcome to the world of depreciation my friend!!! You and I will have something in common, but if you love boating as much as I do, it will be worth it....sort of.

I was looking at the 340/320, all the prices in the area i found were about $115k-150k all within 2002-2007. No dealer would budge if there prices and were willing to let me walk away without even a chance to negotiate a lower price. And there aren't too many private sellers either. I did find a 2004 320DA for 90k, but it was definitely something that needed work on.
I opted for this 2009 350 cause of its updated looks, cabin space, and this particular 350 has all the bells and whistles on it, probably overkill.
496 mag seacore 8.1 with 136hrs
Raymarine E120
Raymarine HD open array
Flir night vision
bow thrusters
underwater lights
teak everywhere
and much more...
350 also has the rumble seat, which my son loves and an extended platform, all for the price of .....

170k+tax

I know these damn things depreciate, but i see alot of them sit at an price range for a good amount of time and then slowly creeps down. I figured with the extra set of options, it would be easier to unload in the future in case I need to.

As for the wife...well we spoil our 5yr son, when he saw the TV in the aft cabin and I called it his clubhouse, she gave me the thumbs up, + I showed her all the prices of the 350 on sale now [220k+] on the entire east coast and she said this was a good deal.

 

[Ethan's Tank]

Ethan, the right anodes for the crappy Potomac River is aluminum. Do not get magnesium. I learned that the hard way.

Everyone I know with BravoIII in the Potomac (including my 300DA) got about 10 years out of their bellows.

Bearing carriers and steering swivel pins are two other BravoIII items that seem to be around 10 year items as well in the Potomac. So you are about half way into that 10 year life of those.

Mercathode check, painting the drives, changing the gear lube, and changing the anodes are all an annual item. Don't skip that maintenance any year.

After this thread you aren't allowed to open any more threads about boats you might buy. Your next thread has to be about the boat you just bought. It's a rule.

Good luck!

Thanks for the advice, its good to know since this will be my 2nd boat and I never knew to change out those things you mentioned...Everyone around me just told to do just these things:

Change oil
fog system
coolant engine block and all the water lines [AC/sinks/etc]
shrink wrap

Its good to know the information you provided, I'll search around the web to see what annual maintenance needs to be done on this boat

HAHA...As for buying boats, this should be the final pick....hopefully! I'll open a new thread once I purchase it and post some pics

 

[Ethan's Tank]

Most anodes are one or two bolts. I hardly classify that as "working on the boat".


If worst comes to worst they can be changed in the water.

I'll do some research on how to do it, youtube and google are my friends, and now so is clubsearay!

 

[Ethan's Tank]

Ethan, did your Surveyor do a sea trial, what were the results?

He did not go on a sea trial, because of the tight schedule he had with 4th of July coming up, he was only able to do a C&V survey, that did not include a sea trial. He did advise me to check the rpm range [max and cruise range] on those 496mags and test it when I do my sea trial

 

[Ethan's Tank]

So if the average asking price for a 2009 350DA is $220K+, and you got yours for 170K, why would you think 150K was too much for a 2007 340 DA? The 340 is the same size, and only two years older than the 350...2 years depreciation of $20K is about right for today's market for the year range. So, either you were unreasonable, or your value for the 350 is (fill in the blank)

according to what my surveyor said from soldboats.org, the 2007 340DA high range would be about 130k bristol. The going average for 320DA were about 99k and 340 were about 115k