Sacramento River. Fresh water but the boats get a lot of growth. Boat will be bottom painted once I take it out for service
Sundancer 260 Dies idling in gear
- Thread starter eric260
- Start date
Espos4
Well-Known Member
What’s the temperature of the river water? 60’s? 90’s?
Right now, I’d guess 70’s.
Espos4
Well-Known Member
That should easily be cool enough to keep your engine temp in the low 160’s.
For comparison, I have the same motor in a 2007 240 Sundeck.
With new manifolds, risers, thermostat, impeller, and a clear inlet through the transom, I run at 158° all day long regardless of rpm. Salt Water temps here max out at around 80°
For comparison, I have the same motor in a 2007 240 Sundeck.
With new manifolds, risers, thermostat, impeller, and a clear inlet through the transom, I run at 158° all day long regardless of rpm. Salt Water temps here max out at around 80°
Looking at the parts manual online with mercruiser, there are 3 options for the thermostat. 1 drain, 3 drain. 7 drain system. 2 of those 3 use 160 thermostat. The other looks like 170 degree thermostat. No idea which one mine is. But maybe it’s 170? Will have to look. Either way, the fact it jumps up pretty high when I slow down, to like 190-200, something is wrong. Will try swapping the thermostat first
Espos4
Well-Known Member
Thats a good place to start. Pay attention to how the thermostat comes out. They are easy to install incorrectly.
Just to throw it out there... a dirty hull or dirty outdrive could affect cooling... along with a myriad of other things, of which I believe most, if not everything is mentioned above for reference.
Update: First I changed fuel filters, took it for a test ride. No problems. Went on a longer ride a few days later, after about an hour of running around, same problem. When trying to get back home, it beeped (as it does when first turning on key) severla times and lost power only to go right back up. Then it died and the actual guardian kicked in as the temp shot up when it died. Let boat cool and restarted fine. Limped home at 5mph, and had random beeps(same length as when starting) rpm drops down then right back up. Died a couple times too (same beep) always starts right back up.
Fast forward to today, had a tech come out and pull codes. The only code was from the one time the guardian kicked in and overheated. He did see with the computer that the raw water psi when rpms were up was only about 1.7. He said it should be closer to 3 psi. His suggestion was to replace the impellor it is mist likely worn.
Now for the engine dying. As there were no codes, and based off the description I gave him of the issue, he thinks there is something with the ignition where it thinks I am turning off the key for a split second. Checked all connections, none were loose. Will take them off and look for corrosion. Any one have an issue with the ignition before like this??
Fast forward to today, had a tech come out and pull codes. The only code was from the one time the guardian kicked in and overheated. He did see with the computer that the raw water psi when rpms were up was only about 1.7. He said it should be closer to 3 psi. His suggestion was to replace the impellor it is mist likely worn.
Now for the engine dying. As there were no codes, and based off the description I gave him of the issue, he thinks there is something with the ignition where it thinks I am turning off the key for a split second. Checked all connections, none were loose. Will take them off and look for corrosion. Any one have an issue with the ignition before like this??
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Just pull your raw water pump and check the impellor. It should be the first thing checked for overheating outside of a loose or misrouted belt.
On the 2003 260DA it's pretty simple to get to and can be done in the water if needed. Just plug the big inlet hose after pulling the pump.
If blades are missing make sure you find them upstream of the pump or they can cause flow restriction.
-Kevin
On the 2003 260DA it's pretty simple to get to and can be done in the water if needed. Just plug the big inlet hose after pulling the pump.
If blades are missing make sure you find them upstream of the pump or they can cause flow restriction.
-Kevin
Thanks for the tip on the hose. Mechanic said just keep it above the water line, but I would feel better with a plug. In regards to the pump housing, the mercruiser parts finder shows a BRASS housing. However, I’m seeing online a plastic one that says will fit in many places. Obviously, I will go look at boat tomorrow to see what housing it is, but it seemed odd. All the videos I’ve seen on replacing it have the plastic housing. I want to order correct impeller and if it is the plastic housing I’ll replace that too because it’s cheap and can get grooves worn in
We did and impeller will be replaced. See my other reply for only question on that. For the ignition switch, is that something that typically fails? They are also relatively cheap, so figure I’ll just change it.
Sorry to hijack your thread Eric, but how do you guys plug the inlet hose when replacing the impeller in the water?
I have some of these for use in home plumbing (like replacing a sink, to block the sewer gas). As you tighten the wing nut, the rubber expands and makes a seal. Wondering if the right diameter would work here?
I have some of these for use in home plumbing (like replacing a sink, to block the sewer gas). As you tighten the wing nut, the rubber expands and makes a seal. Wondering if the right diameter would work here?
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Its going to be a brass or stainless steel housing if there was an updated unit put in. As far as plugging the hose you will only get a small trickle through and yes you can keep it above the water line. As long as I was staying with the boat I usually just jammed in the handle of a large enough screw driver. Any trickle that does come through the bilge pump will take care of. Now, If you were to leave the boat like that for a while unattended I would feel safer with a larger plug with a clamp on it.
-Kevin
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Not much water comes through and as I noted in my last response if I am staying near the boat I just use the handle of a screw driver. A small trickle is not a problem. To plug it I would probably just get a PVC insert with a barb and clamp it.
-Kevin
Plug it with just about anything. But if you want, search for tapered plugs... or even better, made by Forespar, is a product called Sta-plug... which is a good idea to have, anyways.
Yes, like anything mechanical, ignition switches can get flaky. It's nearly 2 decades old... it's had a good life.
Yes, like anything mechanical, ignition switches can get flaky. It's nearly 2 decades old... it's had a good life.
KevinC
Well-Known Member
Especially any of the ignition switches that are dash mounted and exposed to the elements! Simple swap pole for pole just move the wires.
-Kevin
It is dash mounted. I’m fingers crossed on this, otherwise I have an electrical gremlin!
Chris Carpenter
New Member
- Feb 24, 2019
- 2
- Boat Info
- 2006 260 Sundancer
- Engines
- Mercruiser 6.2 w Bravo III
I’m going to change the impeller on Wednesday afternoon. My thought is this. I have a finicky ECM, based off info from others on this sub, that is sensitive to high heat. I’m going to change the impeller and make sure my temp stays stable instead of climbing at high rpm. The manifold it sits on should be able to have a hand laid on it and not burn you. Assuming the temp stabilizes, I’m hoping the issue goes away. Another suggestion I got was to run blower all the time. Seems others have somewhat of an issue. I’m also going to call Whipple. The diagnose and repair ECMs. I’m going to see if they think it is something they can help with.
