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My trim limit does not work. What is the highest trim (number) that I can safely run the boat at? What is the cutoff between normal operating and trailering?
 
I assume you have the DTS system?
If so, the trim limit turns on only when engine reaches sufficient RPM that damage could occur. Sitting on trailer or at the dock, there is no limit and it will come all the way up.
 
My trim limit does not work. What is the highest trim (number) that I can safely run the boat at? What is the cutoff between normal operating and trailering?

Does your trim gauge have a red zone at the top for trailering? Mine does.
 
Great weekend on the water except for one minor glitch. One of my drain plugs on the engine (fuel cooler drain) broke and the threads stayed in the hole. I noticed my bilge running a lot and checked it out and saw the water pissing out and salt buildup all over the engine. I couldn't get the threaded part out and don't have a right angle drill at the marina (and don't feel like spending $200 to fix something I can do myself). To save the weekend, I got a lag bolt and screwed it into the drain plug plastic remains and that plugged up the hole enough to make it through the rest of the weekend. Mildly annoying.
 
Does your trim gauge have a red zone at the top for trailering? Mine does.
My scale has a gap area at the top after the highest trim hash line, then a trailer image.
my manual clearly says that the dts system will limit trim at higher rpm but not at low rpm.
Again, I have the dts controls on mine.
 
Does your trim gauge have a red zone at the top for trailering? Mine does.

My scale has a gap area at the top after the highest trim hash line, then a trailer image.
my manual clearly says that the dts system will limit trim at higher rpm but not at low rpm.
Again, I have the dts controls on mine.

My boat has DTS. Not sure about the trailer image on the gauge. I'll have to check that when I get back to the boat.
 
I got caught in a pretty good rain this past weekend. Made me realize how much I miss the full canvas enclosure I had on my Crownline. So, I'm looking at getting at least the front and possibly side connectors. However, I have the Sports Arch and it is fiberglass on the front. Has anyone ever tried attaching a strip of some sort to the front of the Sports Arch to attach a connector to?

I'll end up having a local shop make something, but I want to have an idea of how it is going to look before I just say "do it".

I put this question out a couple of years ago. Haven't done anything yet, but this past, VERY RAINY, weekend made me think about it a bit more. Has anyone made a front connector for the sports arch? If so, how was it connected to the sports arch?
 
I put this question out a couple of years ago. Haven't done anything yet, but this past, VERY RAINY, weekend made me think about it a bit more. Has anyone made a front connector for the sports arch? If so, how was it connected to the sports arch?

I'm also interested in this. The parts catalog has part numbers for curtains that go there, but I can't picture how they would attach.

imTsq10.jpg
 
I'm also interested in this. The parts catalog has part numbers for curtains that go there, but I can't picture how they would attach.

imTsq10.jpg

I think those are for use with the bimini, not with the sports arch. I just had a thought that maybe, instead of connecting it to the fiberglass, make it long enough to wrap over the top and make a pocket to slip over the back of the sports arch. Add access holes for the anchor light and "ski pole", a couple of straps and tie downs and it might be a possibility...
 
There is a channel that screws to an arch, and a zipper extrusion slides into it. Have seen it used on other brands.
Chap 276 uses it down the side of the arch for example.
 
Today I had a name put on the back of the boat. (Thanks rggale for the dimensions.) I had to remove the 270 logo on the back, and would like to replace it in a different spot.

Does anyone know where I can find a new 270 logo? I think the part number is 1593052.
 
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I contacted SR for another logo. They told me they are all out of production. I had a custom sign shop print me one on auto vinyl. Worked out well.
 
Search on Ebay and greatlakesskipper.com. Lots of decals and emblems available - if you can't find them, pretty easy to get something made. I contacted one of the people on Ebay about my 185 decals - sent him some pictures and dimensions and he custom made it for me at a very reasonable price. Good as factory.
 
I'm going to stop by my dealer later on today and see if they have one. There are many new 270 models (SLX, Sundance, Sundeck). I wonder if they have a replacement "270" that goes to one of the new models, and whether that would look okay. I'll report back, hopefully with pics.
 
I'm going to stop by my dealer later on today and see if they have one. There are many new 270 models (SLX, Sundance, Sundeck). I wonder if they have a replacement "270" that goes to one of the new models, and whether that would look okay. I'll report back, hopefully with pics.

The 270 logo for my year is no longer sold by Sea Ray. The current models have a different 270 logo that is 1.25" x 11". That is bigger than the prior one, but would work perfectly on the left side of the tow point. That's where I'm going to put it.
 
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So Tim, did you go and get you a Garmin 541 or did you try what rggale did and use an iPAD? His looks pretty sweet.

Here's some food for thought, and a post to this thread to keep it alive:

I had some health issues the past couple of years that kept me from utilizing my beautiful boat as much as I wanted. So it sat in dry storage only getting out a couple of times. This year I feel much better, still slow, but better, and spent 2 full days cleaning and preening. Paid my Marina guys to De-Winterize and check all the fluids and stuff. During cleaning I noticed the following:
Trim fluid was low in the little tank on the top of the motor (can't remember what they call it now), which was cool, 'cause the manual says that will happen in the first 20 hours or so (yeah, I know. I told you I was sick) But the guys must have glossed over it. I looked again before I topped it off and there are actually 2 lines and as long as the fluid is between them (it was) then everything is copa. I also noticed that the Bilge pump, or rather the "sump pump" which is what they call the bilge pump that is in the middle of the boat was running continuously. Bad. I disconnected the batteries so that it would not run overnight, and talked to the service guy. i was running a hose all over the boat, and inside the storage in the bow, and the head, so yeah there was prolly water in the "sump". I also had no water pressure at my sinks or showers. So I show up the next day to clean the outside hull of the boat (yuck) and meet one of the techs coming to look at the boat. The hatch was closed so I assumed that he had re-connected the batteries, and I didn't hear the pump so I figured he fixed it. I talked with him about it and he said that when he reconnected everything the pump wasn't running. Hmmmm....Anyway, it wasn't running now, so I guess that there was water in the ski locker (which is what that pump is for) or behind the bulkhead where the Water tank and pump are. That's also where the filter for the sinks and showers is. it's a tiny thing, and if it gets clogged with algae (mine was) you getta No Pressurea. Comprendo? Yeah. so, All fixed up ready to go, batteries checked, ran it on the hose, water looked good, engine fired right up, no hassles. Took the boat out twice and on the second day after about 3 or 4 hours on hook, no stereo or pump or anything running the batteries are dead. NO START. Luckily I had purchased a jump box because this happened to me 2 years ago, and I was concerned because the batteries were not the same age, and had been sitting for a year that something like this might happen. Best 135 dollars I ever spent. Jumped it off and did some high speed runs, slow speed sightseeing and some mid speed running. Gauge read 12.7 at first then went to 13.8 after running around a bit. Also on the first day, the boat seemed to be running hotter than I remember ~172 normally, I saw 181 once and only once after a high speed run, and then to idle because of a pontoon boat. I won't go into that. But now it is 168-172 Nominally. Which is spot on from what I hear. We have a proverbial buttload of Millfoil in Guntersville, so I may have been into some of that when the temp went high. So what do you think? New Batteries (about 280 bucks) or take them home and hot charge them on a decent battery charger and take the jump box and try them out? Also, if any of you have the Sony head with the Rockford Fosgate amp and speaker package (6 speakers and a sub) I would like to discuss...

In retrospect, I did start the boat about 3 times just to move to a better spot, and I didn't let it run long, and that could have killed the batteries, I guess. I may be grasping at straws looking for any reason other than a 142 dollar battery.
I did switch from Both to Batt 1 and from Batt 1 to Batt 2 and from Batt 2 to both. batt 1 was definitely worse that batt 2.

Oh and when you guys (youse guys? Y'all?) are on the hook to you normally switch to one battery or do you leave it on both, or what?
I learned some cool stuff looking at the wiring diagram for my boat, and will share if anyone cares...

AND...Why the hell don't Marinas/Dry Storage units use Tow Motors that run on Propane, like a Zamboni, or are electric, like a warehouse robot, or at least use a soot scrubber on the exhaust?
90% of what I cleaned off my boat was diesel soot. BLECH....

TL;DR?
 
Anybody Change the impeller on an 8.2 Magnum? I understand it can be quite the hassle, but the Marina wants like 360 dollars. What special tools does it take? Pulley puller, and the kit?
I think I can handle that. unless my big ass has to climb in there with the engine, then I might just have to pay my guys to do it.
 

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