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Discussion in 'Sport Boats' started by bushway9172, Jun 9, 2009.
15-19" adjustable arm with 1/2" shaft.
I don't remember the blade length off hand.
In my humble opinion the wiper is more headache than it's worth. I removed mine, rain-x the glass, and haven't looked back.
Thanks for the info!!
OK....I have to ask....why did you feel that way?
I agree. It makes it a pain in the a$$ to put the cover on the boat. I removed mine. I'll take your advice and rain-x the glass.
It's not very effective, nor is it very useful. Even when out on the open water, I manage to keep the windscreen pretty dry. I can imagine if you had a full canopy and were riding out in some nasty weather (which I really would not recommend at all, especially in an open cabin boat), it might be useful. Otherwise it just makes it a pain in the ass when covering/uncovering the boat. You won't be missing much without the wiper, trust me.
Big fan of RainX on outside, antifog solution on the inside.
Thanks for the advice.....I'll spend the money on Rain-X instead of a wiper arm! Never considered the issue with the cover and I always use my cover when not in the boat.
I used a $30 bore scope from amazon to check and make sure there is an access panel behind the fridge. There is, so I'm going to try and take it out tomorrow. As far as removal, are the screws around the outside edge of the fridge just for holding trim, or do they have to be removed? I see in the manual, that there are 2 screws on either side of the interior of the fridge that are covered by plugs.
Is there anything else that I need to be aware of prior to taking it out?
It's been a while, but I seem to recall it was about 8-10 screws. Take those off and it pretty easily slid out. (Note that I have a 2011 which is the black fridge/door style; you might have the newer SS/drawer style so there could be some differences.)
I feel like the cable could have been longer and found myself trying to find a decent spot to place the fridge once out.
Last but not least, you'll be exposed to SR's "rough" fiberglass so you can expect no less than 5 blood-drawing cuts, so wear gloves or have band-aids/H2O2 nearby.
I got the fridge out yesterday. It is only held in with the 8 screws along the outside of the trim. It came out easy, but you were right about the length of the cable, just long enough to get it out. There was an access panel behind it that gave me access to the antenna mount I was trying to fix. Whoever installed the mount never bothered to use a backing plate, so I had a little more work to do. Thankfully everything worked out. I just have to run down to the boat today and make the connection at the radio.
Back to the cold beer issue. When I took out the fridge, it already has the 120v rectifier installed. All I need is to get a 3 prong cord and an outlet. Is there any benefit to running it on 120v instead of the 12v with the battery charger on "dock power mode?"
I'm no expert on electric, but my experience using the battery charger/12V has been just fine. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle to hook up the 120V?
In other news, the reason I yanked my fridge last year was to remove the handle on the side of the wet bar. The reason? I bought a tall garbage can that wedges perfectly between bar and seat, and it holds a lot more than that silly wastebasket under the sink. (I also turned that area into storage.) A little hack that makes the boat friendlier.
Not the best pic but gives an idea:
My radio only has power when the ignition is turned on. I saw some other threads stating that there is an accessory position, but it doesn't appear to be an option on my boat (2014 300 slx).
Is this how the radio is typically wired, and if so, is there any reason I shouldn't just find a wire that is powered independent of the ignition?
The reason is that i typically switch off my port battery and turn the starboard switch to the 2nd batter, which is a bigger deep cycle, when I am on the hook. When I do this, my vessel view states that there is an alarm for low voltage and the vessel view is on the entire time.
On another note, what is the angled cleat at the base of the anchor roller for on the 300? I tied off on it this weekend, and within 2 hours, the friction from the anchor roller cut through my anchor line causing a lot of excitement. I'm going to make a Y snubber to go between my two bow cleats and attach to the chain, but was curious what that other cleat is for.
We're wired the same way; ignition keys must be switched to on for the radio to work. This past winter when I had some electronics done, I had my installer take a look to see about separating the radio power. It's a wirey mess behind the panel, so couple that with an awkwardly small working area and we decided it wasn't worth it.
There are lots of experiences with people getting error codes on the VV when only one key is on; for that reason, I always turn on both. I've yet to experience any problems, but if I can avoid a $200 service call, I will.
You should, however, be able to have battery 1 or 2 selected on the switch and not get the low battery alarms.
That cleat -- in theory, the windlass should just push/pull the anchor, and a cleat should hold it. But you're right, jumping the track to tie off onto the cleat puts a lot of stress on the rope. My guess is it's just a standard item for any boat and makes its way on board while traveling down the assembly line (regardless of whether one orders a windlass).
Do you have any issues with leaving the starboard battery on the entire time you are on the hook? I was switching it off but it seems to cause more problems that it fixes.
I have to take a look into the electrical panel as i'm having an issue with my rear speakers, so I'll see if mine is any easier to change than yours was.
With the windlass, do you use a snubber from the two box cleats when you are on the hook, or do something else?
Thanks for the help. On a positive note, I did learn how to do a rope to chain splice pretty quick, I think ...
Never have had a problem with the batteries on the hook, and I've probably gone close to 6-7 hours before starting the engines back up.
Assuming you have the premium audio (I feel like most boats had that option), at least on mine, it was quite the puzzle to figure out wire placement in the amplifier. At some point SR combined them from the actual speaker. They are labeled, but after spending a good amount of time, I still don't think I completely understand how it's wired up.
I'm a bad boy with my windlass. I just let the machine hold. Fortunately, I tend to only anchor in calm seas/winds, although that's a poor excuse. I suppose I could get a rope chafe protector and wrap the exposed part after tying off the middle cleat.
2012 250 SLX
Does anyone have a link to where I can read on how to operate the toilet on my boat - or post here how it works exactly? I bought my boat used and it did not come with any directions on how to operate the toilet or how to empty the tank.
It looks (and smells) like its never been used before. Do i need to add some type of water or chemicals before or after use? It seems like there should be some sort of flush mechanism or something to clean the bowl after someone uses it but all i have found is a "trap door" to allow the bowl to empty itself down into the holding tank. Does it work like a port-a-john in which you must have some liquid in it before you use it? Sorry, i'm clueless here, does not seem intuitive to me and never owned a boat with a head before.
Assuming you don't have a Vaccu-flush, which looks like a home toilet with a pedal on the side. But which one do you have?
I'm sure you'll get a quick answer once we know what you're asking about.
Pics are your best friend when asking a question like that. There are basically 2 types of heads used. One is just the typical port-a-potty where you have a tank of water as part of the unit and must manually pump the water into the bowl and pull the handle to open the "trap door". You may or may not have a pumpout port on the side of the portapotty tank that connects to the pumpout fitting on the portside deck in front of the windshield. The other is the vacuflush head that, as RichardS mentioned, looks a lot like a home toilet with a lever on the front that you press down and it opens the "trap door".
sorry took me so long to reply guys. this is exactly what mine looks like.
i also have a capped tank access port above this location just in front of the windshield as well. i'm lost as to how this thing works and what the access port is for.
Hey guys, any help would be greatly appreciated here. This is not something i really want to "experiment" with on how to properly use or clean.
BTW, i did download the manual from SR.com but its only 26 pages long and gives absolutely no in depth or detailed info on how to properly operate or clean any of the accessories on the boat.