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Angle is adjustable on iPad for glare and sitting vs standing.
 
I'm having an issue with the fridge on my 2014 300 SLX. It's a Dometic CRD-1050. It works fine on the battery, although with the fridge, GPS and radio on, the voltage alarm goes off on my GPS.

My question is does this fridge come from the factory with the 120 volt option already pre-wired? I got the boat used and it only works on 12 volt, not 120. If it does come to work on both 12 and 120, where would the best place to start looking for an issue? I see that there is an outlet on outside wall of the wet bar. Is it wired there or directly to the panel?

Thanks.
 
sheehyjo said:
I'm having an issue with the fridge on my 2014 300 SLX. It's a Dometic CRD-1050. It works fine on the battery, although with the fridge, GPS and radio on, the voltage alarm goes off on my GPS.

My question is does this fridge come from the factory with the 120 volt option already pre-wired? I got the boat used and it only works on 12 volt, not 120. If it does come to work on both 12 and 120, where would the best place to start looking for an issue? I see that there is an outlet on outside wall of the wet bar. Is it wired there or directly to the panel?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

That little outlet on the bar is just that...an outlet. (FYI the GFCI outlet is the one in the head cabinet and it controls ALL of the outlets -- I learned that the hard way.)

I'm pretty confident the little fridges they throw in these boats run off the battery only -- and my evidence for this lies in the shore power breaker panel. Mine has two switches, the outlets and battery charger. If SR installs a 12/120 fridge, they almost always put it on a separate breaker labeled "fridge." Of course, I could be wrong.

Also, throwing the fridge on 120 in an attempt to kill yet another annoying alarm is secondary. You might want to find out why your GPS or VesselView is going crazy (even though only 2 years old, batteries might be throwing in the towel) -- I run my fridge, GPS, stereo, blue lighting, some smartphone chargers, etc. all day long and the batteries support them just fine.
 
FastMarkA said:
Also, throwing the fridge on 120 in an attempt to kill yet another annoying alarm is secondary. You might want to find out why your GPS or VesselView is going crazy (even though only 2 years old, batteries might be throwing in the towel) -- I run my fridge, GPS, stereo, blue lighting, some smartphone chargers, etc. all day long and the batteries support them just fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I actually just changed the batteries. The "old" batteries looked to have not been monitored, as the water level was low and exposed the plates.

The other reason for setting the fridge to go on 120 was to get the beer cold before I even get to the boat.
 
sheehyjo said:
The other reason for setting the fridge to go on 120 was to get the beer cold before I even get to the boat.
Click to expand...

A totally essential requirement that has a solution.

I leave my shore power connected, battery charger on, and when I arrive, the beer is always cold and engines start just fine! Try it, I think you'll like it!
 
FastMarkA said:
A totally essential requirement that has a solution.

I leave my shore power connected, battery charger on, and when I arrive, the beer is always cold and engines start just fine! Try it, I think you'll like it!
Click to expand...

I thought that was bad for the batteries...
 
It is ok as long as your charger has a power supply mode. Many do not, and you should check the specs on the unit.
If it doesn't, then each time the refrigerator cycles, the charger starts the sequence from the beginning, eventually cooking the batteries, as it never gets to a float or absortion mode, it is always in the bulk charge mode.
 
paulswagelock said:
It is ok as long as your charger has a power supply mode.
Click to expand...

I have a Pronautic 1240P. I don't see power supply mode in the manual, but the website says "Automatic dockside power mode for 12 Volt DC lighting and appliances." So I can just leave the house battery on all the time and not worry about anything? Is it better to leave it switched to both, or does it really make much or a difference?

I saw the open Accessory Switch on my panel and was considering running a 120 line to the fridge, but this seems like an easier alternative, so long as there are no issues with it frying my batteries.
 
Pronautic has the power supply mode - yes. Switch battery to one or the other (not both) - preferably the one that does not have the bilge pump on it. In case shore power goes out or your charger dies, one battery will still be charged when you show up.

I ran my last set of wet-cell Deka batteries 6 seasons this way and they were still strong when I sold the boat. No worries. If wetcell, just check the water levels every few weeks.
 
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I have a Guest 10/10. Anyone know if it supports that mode?

EDIT: It looks like yes. This is off of the manufacturer's website:

Guest Cruising Series Chargers are made specifically for a coastal, blue water environment where top quality, rugged equipment is required. They feature individual circuit boards which provide each battery its own specific charging circuit. The benefit is a well-designed charging system that protects your battery investment. Guest Cruising Chargers also function as a continuous 12 volt power supply to run your DC accessories while at the dock.
 
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I need to replace my VHF antenna and the bushing on my antenna mount. It is located just aft of the water fill. Here is a pic:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26797429/vhf.jpg

What is the best way to get access? I have a fridge. Is there access if I take out the fridge? If so, how difficult is it to get the fridge out?

I already tried looking behind the vinyl pads on the bottom of the arch, but no go.

Thanks,
John
 
Removing the fridge is relatively easy...some screws and brackets.

The bad news, I think, is that its removal will not reveal direct access. I feel like there is another panel in between, but it's been a while since I've removed my fridge so it's worth a try.
 
Anybody have any idea what the shaft size is for the 2009 270 SLX wiper arm? And blade length? I understand it's either 1/2" or 5/8" shaft, but can't verify which. My "new to me" boat is missing the wiper arm and I'd like to order it so I can install it as soon as I take delivery this weekend. (hopefully).

Any advice is much appreciated!
 
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