Rust on Riser and how difficult to remove 5.0 MPI

S

smittyasc3

New Member
Mar 23, 2011
92
LI,NY
Boat Info
2003 260 Sundancer
Engines
5.0 260 HP
So I was checking out my engine last night and saw rust on the outside of the riser. I assume I should pull it apart and inspect and change the gaskets at least correct? It appears the riser is held in place with studs as opposed to bolts. There is not much clearance above the riser. If I undo the nuts it doesn't appear that I can pull the riser straight up. Any suggestions?
View attachment 18596View attachment 18597
 
That looks like it's time to replace your manifolds, risers, and elbows.
 
I see what you mean about the clearance, that sucks! Your going to have to pull the manifold off as one piece then, and disassemble off the boat. If those are original and 8 years old in salt water (I see your from LI) you may have to replace the manifold too anyway. I would change those sooner then later...
 
Not the answers I was hoping for. :(
The person who I bought the boat from purchased an extended warranty on the engine & drive. The warranty is still in affect until I give the previous owner the ok. Do you think this would be covered under said warranty?
 
Nope, these are wear items and won't be covered by the warranty. You may also want to do a compression check on the engine to make sure you don't have any water intrusion issues. As Larry said, do this now rather than later.
 
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Great! Should I go back at previous owner with any ammo or just leave it alone
Anyone know of a reasonably priced place to purchase?
And does anyone want to come give me a hand?
 
If you look closely in your pictures, it really looks like the riser is cracked in several places.

Doug
 
Phew! I was worried for you!

Honestly, I don't know how people can judge the condition of manifolds and risers just by looking at the exterior of them? Rust stains do not necessarily mean you need to replace them. Cast iron and or steel pieces will rust just being exposed to the atmosphere. Pull the parts then decide what needs to be done by examining the interior of the pieces in question.

Doug
 
I almost sh*t myself when you posted that before. I'm hoping I can get through the season without having to pull them. I replaced the T staT the other day and it look like original and it was still pretty clean and good shape. I really don't want to have to pull the manifold, and such if not necessary and drive myself crazy.
 
I wish it was that easy. Don't have clearance above to pull them straight off because they are stud mounted not bolted down. So it appears that i have to remove the manifold too!
 
It appears as though the linkage and bracketry may need to be removed as well.

Doug

Edit - After you remove the studs, use some anti-seize on the threads before you reinstall them.
 
You can't tell by looking at them on the inside either. But there are indicators inside and out, it's what you can't see that is important. Those outside indicators say change now. It seems like a hard decision but it's really not. Because of the leakage you must inspect, to inspect you must disassemble - are you going to go through all that trouble and not replace? Cost of parts vs new motor or block? It's a no brainer, it's a boat- any boubt, ,replace it! It's a pretty easy job, do it yourself.
 
Russ Calasant said:
You can't tell by looking at them on the inside either. But there are indicators inside and out, it's what you can't see that is important. Those outside indicators say change now. It seems like a hard decision but it's really not. Because of the leakage you must inspect, to inspect you must disassemble - are you going to go through all that trouble and not replace? Cost of parts vs new motor or block? It's a no brainer, it's a boat- any boubt, ,replace it! It's a pretty easy job, do it yourself.
Click to expand...

Russ - Sorry but I respectfully disagree. I would absolutely inspect and then seal with new gaskets if nothing appears suspect. What you're concerned about is two fold - 1. You're concerned with the mating surfaces. Are they true/flat and are the surfaces dimensionally still good (ie - not corroded where the flange surfaces are no longer equal from one side to the other). Use a machinists ruler to check. 2. You're also concerned with gross, flaking corrosion on the interior of the pieces. Over time the water flow will be reduced as the pieces become plugged with flaking rust. If after the parts are pulled, inspected, and they still appear to be OK - by all means throw new gaskets with some sealer (using sealer is the new recommended Merc method too by the way) and run it again.

Doug
 
If it's visibly leaking on the outside, then the mating surface is shot. It also means it's probably leaking on the inside. These are 8 year old parts on a salt water cooled engine. I can't believe anyone would recommend putting those back on.
 
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