Rust on Riser and how difficult to remove 5.0 MPI

You can put a pipe wrench on the stud (not were the threads are), and back them out, then you can knock it off easily. If you are keeping the manifolds I would recomend anyway taking the studs out so you can clean the surface well, if you are buying new extensions they come with new studs anyway...
 
Pipe wrench worked perfectly. Removed the port side manifold and riser last night and found a little moisture inside the riser. Good thing i pulled otherwise would have definitely had problems this season. Going to order the parts from PPT unless someone can recommend a place that is better priced???
 
I used PPT as mentioned and I recommend calling them--they gave me money off my purchase just by me asking. Shipping was something like $150 bit I asked, "What can we do about the shipping cost" and he said nothing, however, he took $50 off each kit.

Lastly, the hose fitting on the bottom of the manifold--I did not order new so I had to clean mine. They came out good, real good, but would have preferred new. depending on the condition of yours and how easily they can be cleaned, I would recommend changing them out as well.
 
I would try http://marineengineparts.com (Part-man), there located near you in LI but there shipping is flat rate $9.95. I know allot of people that buy from them and are very happy.
 
My manifold (Each outside of KIT price) from PPT $169.00 and the KIT was $229, same type manifold from Part-Man $239 for just one (I Did not see KIT Price with them) -- just saying two manifolds with bolts and gasket from PPT $229 | One Manifold from Part-man no bolts no gasket $239
 
smittyasc3 said:
Anyone want to buy a boat? I'm going to see tonight if I can double nut and try to back out the studs and ensure I have clearance to remove. Do the shift brackets and ecm come off in 1 piece or does it have to all be disassembled? I ordered the manual.
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A piece of advice to avoid a lot of heart ache. These nuts and studs are more than likely seized and rusted in the threads due to leaking gaskets. Too much torque can run them off in a heart beat.

Go to the boat and wire brush power strip all the paint off those nuts and studs. apply penetrating lube like "Liquid Wrench" in copious amounts. go home and come back in a day and then go after those fasteners. If you run off a stud, you are S.O.L. on ever getting this thing off for less than a few grand. Also, I recommend using 12 point sockets vs six for this job.
 
Electrodeposition Coated. I'm ordering from PPT. The seem to have the best pricing and everything is in stock. And they gave me a discount.
 
Ok guys. So I ordered my parts today...The manifolds look good inside so I am not replacing them...However they do have a small amount of rust on a few places...I have this Rust no more acid which you can apply to metal...They say let it sit for 24 hours and then rinse it off thoroughly...Has anyone tried this stuff? I would love a little input...Also want to repaint the manifold before I put everything together...Should I use engine paint or will standard Rustoleum spray enamel be ok?
 
Just ordered my complete set also from PPT. Those spacers sure add some to the cost, but I cannot see putting the old ones back, although they are pretty clear. Should have them in 3 days. Having the manifolds out ofthe way did give me achance to clean some areas of the bildge I have not been able to reach. Going to to give it a good coat of wax while I can get to those spots.
Mike
 
UPS just delivered my parts from PPT. I see they sent studs to attach the manifolds to the spacers, and bolts to attach the risers to the spacers. The bolts are steel, so I am going to see if I can locate stainless. I know I should use anti-sieze on the studs. What should I use on the plugs, black hi-temp silicone? I am just wondering if I should still paint these since they are plated. The finish looks ok but I wonder how log it will last? Has anyone used the "plated" ones?
Thanks,
Mike
 
My gut instinct tells me that using stainless instead of the bolts supplied may cause problems because the cast iron manifold may expand and contract at a different rate than the stainless steel bolts. They may loosen. I don't know if this would happen like I say it's a gut feeling but I'd ask around before jumping in. anyone?
 
@smitty - The one thing I think will be better withthe hardware they provide is that you will actually be able to remove the riser and spacer separately. This should make cleaning them out in a couple years much easier. I an planning on installing the manifolds, then the spacers, then risers. I would rather wrestle smaller lighter objects into the engine compartment, that one large heavy buly one. I know where we will both be tomorrow morning! ARe you going to paint yours?
 
Mike...That does appear to be an easier set up...I already painted my manifolds here in my shop and the look brand new...Used engine paint...Just received my order and they didn't ship me the manifold gaskets so I guess I'll pick them up at Marine Mate!

themikehyde said:
@smitty - The one thing I think will be better withthe hardware they provide is that you will actually be able to remove the riser and spacer separately. This should make cleaning them out in a couple years much easier. I an planning on installing the manifolds, then the spacers, then risers. I would rather wrestle smaller lighter objects into the engine compartment, that one large heavy buly one. I know where we will both be tomorrow morning! ARe you going to paint yours?
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