Ripping up carpet and install Alure flooring in 80s era sundancer 300

Chris, I haved changed my plan for the bull nose. I found dimensional teak trim that is just over 1/4" thick and is 3" wide. It is $33.00 for a 5 ft section. What I am going to do is lay the floor right to the edge of the steps (I am going to use an adhesive o the steps) Then face the stairs with the teak trim. Simple answer. You will be able to bring to teak, table saw and a chop saw to your boat, and you will be able to complete the job in one trip. The source for the teak is BUCK WOODCRAFT. they are lacated in Marathon Florida. I bought a lot of teak from them when I redid my cockpit. Awesome to deal with, and they dont just sell teak, they are a full wood shop as well and can make any custom mouldings you may need for any project. Shipping was reasonable and fast.
 
Great Dave, thanks for the source! Thats a very reasonable price for teak trim also. I need to keep the job length to a minimum so not having to drag stuff back and forth from home to the boat will be a great time savings. I hope to get to this job after I get her in the water but before Memorial day.
 
My boat originally had SR's teal treatment. PO pulled all remnants of teal out and replaced it with a neutral light grey carpet. The wood look is appealing to me and I have a fair amount of experience with sold teak and cherry flooring, as well as laminate and engineered veneer stuff. My stumbling block is hatches. I have three LARGE engine hatches that make up almost full beam in the salon and one smaller one down below in the forward companionway. Plus the floor down there angles UP at about 30 degrees for about 6 inches to the hull sides. Not sure how to deal with this, although Allure seems to be flexible.
 
Ron, I am going to be doing some flooring on a friends 42 ft Lures convertable. He has three hatches in the salon, and was trying to figure out how to do them. I came up with a plan..... I am going to cut the hatches down in size so I can install teak 1 1/4" X 1 1/4" L moulding all around the hatches and the perimeter of the floor itself. What I'm going to do so that the moulding does not stand up higher than the floor, (tripping hazard) is to run a router around the floor perimeter, and the hatches,recessing the trim so when completed, the trim around the hatches will be level with the floor. Also, this product is very flexible. If you heat it up with a heat gun, it will conform nicely to irregular srfaces. (I would use an adhesive in this area.) Should look trick !
 
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OK. I get it. Trim some off the entire perimeter of each hatch and rout a recess into the hatch and the floor. That would definitely work. I figured the flexible property of this material would solve the up-curve of the floor. Interesting...
 
Ron:
I used the Alure in a Bathroom of a rental home I have. It was pretty simple stuff to work with. One tricky part is that they 'stick' together istead of 'click' together like laminate/engineered flooring. You can pull up and re-stick a plank once....sometimes....but it loses some of it's sticky-ness. You really want to get it right the first time.

I'll make you a deal....I'll help you do your hatches and floors if you help me do mine.....You can bring the boat around to my dock so that we can have all the tools on hand.
 
Just did my steps today with allure. Gonna do the rest of the floor soon.

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Dom
That's a pretty good deal! I'm pretty sure we can get Jon in on this too. Now, who's gonna rip the old carpeting out? Love the new signature pic!
Dave
Nice job. More pix as you go please.
 
Sure.....Jon's always welcome.......there's plenty of room at Dom's Marina for the three of us. Pools opening the week before Memorial Day. But, the rates have gone up a bit...you know...the economy!!!!
 
Thanx Ron, Im just waiting on the weather, need a few more degrees.
 
Quint, The bamboo looks good with the blue carpet.
 
Well, its still too cold here in Boston for me to start laying the flooring, but I got the aft cabin floor filler done, finished the new steps and figured out how I'm going to treat the stair and dinete floor edges.
 

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Man I'd love to have my steps that go down to the forward companionway be "flip up." There's tons of storage under there and it's only accessible from yet another floor hatch that's forward of the ER bulkhead. If I ever get around to this job there's some things I'd like to change.

88D - you completely remade the steps, right? Is that facing piece teak?
 
I agree, that area under the steps is an area that is perfect for storage. I was thinking when I redo mine to make it so the flares and the flare gun are stored there and some other safety equipment. It looks like the perfect size, I keep my flares under the passenger seat right now with a few spare life jackets, in a bright red plastic tackle/tool box. I don't like the fact that it can and has been moved and then I have to find it, would like a dedicated area.
David nice job, keep the pictures coming.
I hope you took the advice on changing that AC line.

Ken
 
Ken
I have a huge chamber behind the steps. You can fit two adults sitting Indian style in there (apologies to our Native American friends). I wish I had a pic - I'll get one next time I'm at the boat. But it's a hassle b/c I have to move a swivel chair to get to the hatch to get to the chamber. Right now I store extra shore power cables and the 900' hose for the central vac in this chamber. Also in the chamber is the shower sump and the pressure tank for the vacuuflush. I'd probably vacuum a lot more if I could more easily get to the central vac hose! If I replace the flooring and have to tear the steps out, I may as well make some sort of access door, provided it remains sturdy enough.
 
Ron, Yes I did remake the steps to make them larger. That is teak on the face of the stair. Ken, I did heed the advice on the A/C hose, and replace it. However it was really in good pliable shape. Thats funny, I keep flares, air horn, ships bell, emergency knife, flashlight and first aid kit under the bottom step, and a small bin to hold slippers and flip flops, under the top step. The areas under the steps are going to be framed in, and I am making two teak doors that will fold down, to match the rest of the doors in the cabin. Also instaling 8 white LED pods to illuminate the floor at night.
 
Dave, I like the door idea, good idea man you are! We usually store a case of bottled water under the bottom step since thing tend to slide out from there now and then. The larger steps and doors would make a nice storage area. I like the idea of saftey equip there, easy to get to yet inside a lockable cabin.
 
Chris, I have the heavy paper templates for top and bottom steps. Once made, the steps just drop in. If you want, I can fold em up and mail them to you. Real simple mod. Dave
 
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88Dancer.. i am also following this thread with some interest as I would like to do similar things with mine. It looks like you have some decent woodworking experience too. Something I lack, but I am willing to try. Keep the pix coming.

Ron, you seem to be leaning towards doing this thingie huh? I wish I was closer as I would join you guys. Wanna make a weekend trip to Kingston? Buy you dinner and pay for gas.... LOL.
 
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