remove trailer?

H

half_full

Member
Jan 22, 2009
72
Williamston, MI
Boat Info
1990 220 DA
Engines
5.7l
Hi All, I have a 1990 220 DA that is on a galvanized bunk trailer. The trailer bunks are soft and I'd like to replace them and adjust over the winter months. The bunk supports are welded on so this is not going to be a quick adjust. Actually, someone along the way did a real class A job of adjusting in the past via hack and patch and it looks real nice. NOT
Question: How can I move this from the trailer to blocks and back in the spring? The out drive is off for winter storage so that will not be in the way.
I've read through threads here on blocking the boat. So, I'm confident I can get the blocks done right. Just don't know best way to get the trailer out from under it. I have plenty of room to work and plenty of time to do it right.
 
You can take the boat to a yard and have them lift it off the old trailer and put it on blocks and stands and store it for the winter, or just as long as you fix the trailer. My storage bill for the winter including blocks, stands, haul out and launch in the spring costs $ 1,100.00 for a 280 and that is based on a 31' footprint.

A boat can be taken off of a trailer, but it is not for the faint of heart. You basically attach the boat to something solid at the rear, get the weight off it, and pull the trailer out from under the boat. An overhead lift is best, other wise you have to set jacks to lift the boat, move the trailer ahead a few inches until the jacks and trailer meet, then set the boat down on the frame, move the jacks, lift the boat, move the trailer ahead, etc.etc etc. Eventually the back end of the boat comes off far enough to get a set of blocks and stands under the boat. I have done it on trailers with rollers and it is definitely a multi person job.

Or you can wait till next summer, go to a marina and short term rent a slip for as long as it will take to fix the trailer, float the boat, put it on its temporary slip, and go fix your trailer.

Henry
 
Hopefully some one will chime in for you soon. I myself wouldn’t want to pay a buncha $ to a marina.

I've never done, seen it done or thought about it done till now.

I would think some how you need to lift the stern at the keel, soap up the trl bunks, anchore the rear of boat to something, pull out and block as you go.

BTW... I’d be drinkin beer while doing this. good luck and to the top for you. ...Ron
 
BonBini said:
Hopefully some one will chime in for you soon.
Click to expand...

Actually, Ron, Henry gave some good advice in the post right before yours.

I could offer some more "how-to" detail, as I'm sure Henry could. But before we go down that road... Half Full, how comfortable do you feel tackling this? If you're at all hesitant, please say so. Like Henry said, this is not something that you take lightly. It's not something that you "try" at - you've got to know what you're doing or you and/or your boat will get bit... big time.

Also, how sure are you that the supports need to be moved? If you want, snap a couple pics for us and we can offer a second opinion. The only reason I ask is that if you can avoid moving the supports, you can do all the work w/o taking the boat off the trailer. Heck, if you're really ambitious you can even do the welding under the boat. I did it once... not much fun, though. Hard to do outside in the wind with a MIG.
 
Henry Boyd said:
Ron,

Since, you have never done this, or even thought about it, why don't you hold off offering how to advice on a topic that could get someone hurt?

Henry
Click to expand...

Now now Henry... Everyone should be able to state their opinion openly without fear of someone being a bully.

(Guess who I am imitating?)
 
Henry Boyd said:
Ron,

Since, you have never done this, or even thought about it, why don't you hold off offering how to advice on a topic that could get someone hurt?

Henry
Click to expand...
You are absolutely right. My Bad. It's new tasks like this that I do all the time and to me are very easy to figure as I go. I most of the time never consider the skills of others. ...Ron
 
Thanks for the replies. I wouldn't hesitate to move this to blocks. I was thinking the method Henry mentioned. Just wanted to ask to be sure. I'll get a few pics in the next few days to show the current state of the trailer. The lower/inner bunks are ok. Just need to replace the wood and carpet. The outer bunks are the original carpet 2X4 with another bare 2X4 stacked on top. This seems to fit the boat but doesn't look right. Should/could I just make new bunks to match current situation. So, a 3" X 3.5" carpeted outer bunk? Or, cut, grind and add new bunk supports?
Again, I'll get a few pics to show what I'm looking at.
 
I'll wait to see the pics - it'll be easier. Might even have some other ideas for you.

On removing the trailer... can you block the aft corners the way it sits on the trailer? Meaning is the trailer in the way, or not? If there's room to block the aft corners, then just do that first. Get the aft end a few inches off the rear of the bunks. Then, just take your jack and jack up the bow. You won't need to strap the back of the boat to anything.

Now the boat is completely off the trailer. Just follow Henry's advice on moving the trailer a bit, re-jacking, moving the trailer, etc.

Since you're on solid ground, cement blocks will be fine. As you stack them 2x2x2, etc be sure to rotate each layer 90* to the lower one. Finish with one block in the middle and a 2x4 on top to set the chine down on to. This last block should be set so the long side is running with the length of the hull (parallel to the boat). It may be helpful to set the blocks on a 2' square piece of plywood so you can move/rotate the blocks around easier as you build your "tower". 1/4" plywood is fine as long as you're on a solid surface.

The last block for the bow should be perpendicular to the keel. When you finally set the bow down, MAKE SURE to also set the wood perpendicular to the bow. Otherwise, you may split the wood.

The trailer should be hooked to your truck during this procedure.


It sounds like you've already put some thought into this. I may be telling you things you already know, but better to tell you now than after.
 
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This has already been said, and this is the kind of activity where there is a hundred ways to do it, but here is how I would do it.

1 - Lower the front of the trailer as low as you can.
2 - Put a jack stand under each aft corner and tighten them
3 - Raise the front of the trailer up and attach it to your truck. This should lift the back of the boat off the trailer.
4 - Get a floor jack, jack up the front of the boat at a point about 1/3rd of the way back (the same spot where the forward blocks will go when you finally block it)
5 - The boat should be just hovering above the trailer at this point.
6 - Pull the trailer forward until a trailer cross member hits the jack. Put some blocks under the stern.
7 - Reposition the jack so you can scoot the trailer forward again. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Ultimately you will have the trailer pulled almost all the way out. At this point put blocks under the bow. The boat should now be safely blocked.
8 - Pull the trailer all the way out. Add 2 more stands about a third of the way back if you really want to be safe about it.


I have never encountered a trailer where you can't put stands under the stern corners, however I'm sure this is a possibility. In this case you might need to tie the boat to a tree or something like Henry stated to get it hanging off the back of the trailer a foot or so. Good luck! Loading it is equally a PITA.
 
Dennis makes a good point. If you can get the trailer up high enough to work on the the bunks (and be safely supported) without pulling the trailer out from under the boat you will be ahead of the game. This is even if it will take you longer to repair the trailer. Case in point, last summer a friend and I pulled a 24' sailboat of its trailer so we could drop the centerboard out for replacement (don't ask it was his granddaughter's boat). It took us a half day to get the boat off the trailer and an equal amount of time to get it back. So a couple of extra hours fixing bunks is better than a day loading and unloading the trailer.

My comment about tieing down the stern was not meant to suggest using a tree to hold the stern while you try and pull the boat off the trailer. You want to secure the stern because stands and blocks work great when there is no horizontal movement. When there is horizontal movement they can tip. In the event something gets caught between the boat and trailer while you are moving forward, having the stern secure will keep the boat from coming off the stands and blocks.

The big thing is you have to be patient and work gradually and methodically.

And post some pictures, maybe there is a less labor intensive solution.

Henry
 
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All, thanks for the replies. I'm attempting to attach photos of the trailer in this response. If they don't show up I'll post a link to them.
I like the idea of just raising the boat and working on the trailer.
So, here's my thoughts and questions from the pics. pic412 - stb side center bunk looking toward stern. Stress cracks?
414 - port side bunk. Both sides are the same. Assuming I should move the boat ahead so the bunk supports the transom and adjust it up?
419 - different issue. hairline cracks in transom a tell tail sign of something?
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0412.jpg
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0414.jpg
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0419.jpg
 
half_full said:
All, thanks for the replies. I'm attempting to attach photos of the trailer in this response. If they don't show up I'll post a link to them.
I like the idea of just raising the boat and working on the trailer.
So, here's my thoughts and questions from the pics. pic412 - stb side center bunk looking toward stern. Stress cracks?
414 - port side bunk. Both sides are the same. Assuming I should move the boat ahead so the bunk supports the transom and adjust it up?
419 - different issue. hairline cracks in transom a tell tail sign of something?
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0412.jpg
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0414.jpg
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0419.jpg
Click to expand...

Just copy and paste the IMG code found on the right when you are looking at the picture on Photobucket, it says share this image

DSCN0412.jpg
 
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half_full said:
All, thanks for the replies. I'm attempting to attach photos of the trailer in this response. If they don't show up I'll post a link to them.
I like the idea of just raising the boat and working on the trailer.
So, here's my thoughts and questions from the pics. pic412 - stb side center bunk looking toward stern. Stress cracks?
414 - port side bunk. Both sides are the same. Assuming I should move the boat ahead so the bunk supports the transom and adjust it up?
419 - different issue. hairline cracks in transom a tell tail sign of something?
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0412.jpg
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0414.jpg
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/mdiehl420/?action=view&current=DSCN0419.jpg
Click to expand...

Well, I can certainly see the cracks on the transom. I think I see them in #412. They appear to be quite long, sweeping cracks? They may or may not be indicative of a more serious problem. The gel coat is quite brittle and will crack MUCH easier than the underlying fiberglass (which is structural).

That being said, I would only be guessing to the condition of the hull or the cause of the cracks. It could be strictly a cosmetic thing... it could be more serious. Tap around the area with the edge of a quarter. Listen to the sound it makes and compare it to other areas. You will hear the sound change as you tap where the stringers are as this is a thicker area. But, the sound changes should follow a relatively consistent pattern. This may take you a good hour or two, maybe longer.

As to the trailer bunks... From what I can see, the frame appears to be good. If it was me, I would cut off all the supports and start fresh. Take a look at the bunk trailers here: http://venturetrailers.com/aluminum.html Those supports are bolted on. Very easy to add these to another trailer. One set is all you'd need. The bunks are simply (2) 2x8's or 2x10's scabbed (sp ???) together.

Also on that link page are centering guides. ShoreLand'r (and others) make a set that is designed to go on a single crossmember, instead of two as with the Venture trailer. Just depends on your trailer set-up. These would not be absolutely mandatory, but something to think about.

Another way to go with the uprights/supports would be hardware that would allow you to use a 2x4, preferably a 2x6, on it's wide side.

One caution: If you decide to weld, the gas given off when welding galvanized steel is poisonous.
 
Looking at the cracks in picture 412, I'd be concerned that the bunk locations are the cause. Is there a matching set on the other side?

Looking at picture 419, is the bottom of the transom in contact with the trailer? Are there any wear spots or damage on the bottom?

It almost seems like there are two issues at work here. On the sides, the cracks suggest to me that the bunks are either in the wrong location, or are not providing enough support on the hull. Based on just picture 412 it may be that the bunk is not stiff enough and are deflecting under the weight of the boat as it travels on the road. Basically the boat comes down on the bunk (that gives way) and the support becomes a hard spot, and it is causing the hull to flex, and creating the gelcoat crack.

In picture 419 the cracks seem to radiate from the bottom of the vee in the hull. This would suggest that the hull took a hit under the drain lug at some point. Could you be bumping the roller when you are loading/unloading by any chance?

I would suggest you do some research on how other 220 trailers are configured and look towards modifying your bunks to match.

Henry
 
Those cracks in the hull (Half - they're not by any chance some type of staining, are they)... They're so long and gradually sweeping - almost like there was no actual impact point. Plus, it seems some of them (pic 412) are not near the bunks.:huh:

From the trailers we see day in and day out, I think the general placement is fine. But adding on to what Henry said about bouncing down the road - that extra piece of 2x4 stuck in there is certainly not done in a way to lessen stress on the hull. In fact, just the opposite.
 
Looking at the transom cracks raises question of possible transom rot.
The way they spread out seem to follow how the transom would flex under load when planing or in rough water conditions.

Check by knocking as posted earlier.
You may even be able to "push" on the inside of the transom with a heavy screwdriver or dowel to see and/or feel it flex.
I could with the transom rot ours had - no cracks though.

As far as moving the trailer - I always did the same as CSR_Admin's post with the 22 Pachanga we had. Worked everytime - just take your time doing it.
 
Again, thanks to all for the responses! The gel cracks, I did not post my opinion on what may have caused them because I didn't want to sway the answers. And, I'm no expert. But I was thinking the transom cracks were due to possible swelling of the transom from moisture issues. I'll poke around inside too to see if there is a larger issue. The hull cracks I believed to be from lack of bunk support. The bunks are so soft that I could pull them off without the use of any tools. I will try the quarter bounce method. I just knew that old drinking game skill would come in handy one day. :grin:
The trailer is in pretty decent condition. 5 new tires, brakes work great, all lights work. So, I had already been looking for bolt on bunk supports for the outer bunks. I'll contact Venture to see if I can purchase their supports. Everything else I've found does not seem to be strong enough. I think the inner bunks are in the right location and should be good with just new wood/carpet.
 
half_full said:
Again, thanks to all for the responses! The gel cracks, I did not post my opinion on what may have caused them because I didn't want to sway the answers. And, I'm no expert. But I was thinking the transom cracks were due to possible swelling of the transom from moisture issues. I'll poke around inside too to see if there is a larger issue. The hull cracks I believed to be from lack of bunk support. The bunks are so soft that I could pull them off without the use of any tools. I will try the quarter bounce method. I just knew that old drinking game skill would come in handy one day. :grin:
The trailer is in pretty decent condition. 5 new tires, brakes work great, all lights work. So, I had already been looking for bolt on bunk supports for the outer bunks. I'll contact Venture to see if I can purchase their supports. Everything else I've found does not seem to be strong enough. I think the inner bunks are in the right location and should be good with just new wood/carpet.
Click to expand...

We sell the Venture trailers and I *think* you can only get parts through a dealer. Probably worth a call, though. If not, check around your area for a local Venture dealer.
 
Dennis, I did some digging on the Venture site. It appears that I would need to order through a dealer. If you wouldn't mind PMing me your number I'd like to discuss options and price. I appreciate your input in all the threads I've read and would rather give you the business if possible.
I'm trying to determine if I spend time and $ on this trailer or pick up a different trailer and sell this one...
 
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