Quick release fogging set up

[DaleM]

Thankfully I'm on the wrong end of the season to be talking about fogging! BUT here's something that Lazy Daze (Dennis) threw out as an idea because of my pure hate of messing with fuel lines. Last year I fogged my engines (8.1s) by disconnecting the main fuel line at the inline fuel filter and splicing in my fogging tank with fittings I made to match the fuel lines. That went fine but gas did run out and stink up the joint - not to mention make me concerned about creating a potential leak at a fitting that I just messed with.

Dennis drew up an idea that leverages a 3-way valve and a sprayless quick disconnect. The valve is spliced inline with the main fuel line and with the lever in one position fuel flows from the main tank to the motor. When thrown in the other direction, the main tank is isolated and the sprayless disconnect is connected to the fogging tank allowing you to fog the motor. When you're finished, pop the disconnect with minimal to no fuel spill. I've attached Dennis' schematic and the 3-way valve as a starter. As I get closer to doing this, I'll take pictures of the process and post it back here. I want to do this before splash this season

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[DaleM]

The deed is done. I cut both valves into the fuel lines. In concept - pretty straight forward and requires minimal tools. The exception is you need to be able to do all of this standing on your head the entire time. I think the net gain in the end is going to be well worth the time and cleanliness of not dealing with gas all over the place.

Here's my "for what it's worth" if you consider this. If you follow the Mercruiser manual of building the cocktail and plumbing it into the fuel system this will simplify your life massively. I do my best to follow the manuals but at the same time I try to make my life simpler if I intend on keeping the boat (which I do).

Port motor is by far the most challenging. On my boat the fuel line runs to the outside of the stringer which means you have the seacock for the port engine to deal with squished into the area where the 'shelf' of all the mechanicals live (HWH, holding tank, batteries, vacu-pump, etc). There was planning to ensure the valve handle could clear all the hoses and the raw water seacock could clear the valve. I cut the line just forward of the inline fuel filter, but aft of the seacock strainer of the port motor intake.

**Make sure where you intend on placing the valve that it is flat so the 'back side' of the valve handle doesn't get hung up when move from the run position to the fog position** Otherwise you may need a spacer to move it away from the stringer. i will need this in my situation.

The STBD motor is cake. You still stand on your head. But you don't have to worry about all the things to clear. Where I have my valve is out of a normal place to step so I'm not worried about hitting it with my foot.

I'll attach the pictures that I could take. the ones of the port side were stupid and don't know if they provide any value because they are 1) blocked by hoses and 2) upside down while I am 3) standing on my head

The other thing is you should consider is cutting about 2" of house out of one side (either the tank side, or the engine side) to allow the valve to sit level. I don't think this is critical but based on how the fuel hose clamps are arranged could make for an awkward install.

Thanks to Dennis (Lazy Daze) for the motivation.

Dale

 

[Bt Doctur]

Why go cutting fuel lines, most use a spin on fuel filter. install the 2 valves there ,one to shut-off the main fuel into the filter and 1 to open to allow the mix into the fuel filter. an outboard tank and hose complete it. Plus you have the benefit of using a remote tank to extend your range

 

[Bt Doctur]

https://www.google.com/search?q=mar...&ei=pB_dVqGiH8yt-QHB4Tk#imgrc=DRwrYeqvFsrbGM:

 

[DaleM]

Can you take some pictures of the valve installed and provide a parts list? (I know they are on the diagram, but it is a little hard to read.) Thanks!

Here's a pic on the stringer. I'll add the parts list later on.



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Getting a picture of the port side was impossible. The valve is mounted on the stringer.

Why go cutting fuel lines, most use a spin on fuel filter. install the 2 valves there ,one to shut-off the main fuel into the filter and 1 to open to allow the mix into the fuel filter. an outboard tank and hose complete it. Plus you have the benefit of using a remote tank to extend your range
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/QUOTE]

Sounds like an alternative as well though I don't understand how it would plumb in. In my situation the front of the motors face aft and the spin on filter is in a really difficult place to get to.

 

[electricaldoctor]

Does the plastic quick connect fitting have a built in check valve? If not, I would be removing the 3-way valve handle to avoid accidendal fuel spillage. This is not a big inconvenience as you would only be fogging once a year. :huh:

 

[DaleM]

Does the plastic quick connect fitting have a built in check valve? If not, I would be removing the 3-way valve handle to avoid accidendal fuel spillage. This is not a big inconvenience as you would only be fogging once a year.

Yes it does. It's an Atwood sprayless connection. Both male and female ends of the connection have a check valve and only open when engaged. http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/universal-sprayless-connector

I don't like dealing with spilled fuel in the bilge which I get when I disconnect the fuel line in order to tie in the remote tank.

 

[DaleM]

Parts List:

3-way Valve 1/2" NTP - GRO-TWV500
Groco Pipe to hose adapter 1/2" straight standard flow male thread - GRO-PTH500
Groco 90 Deg Pipe to hose ID 1/2" and 5/8" cured standard flow male thread - GRO-PTHC5062
Bushing Bronze 1/2x1/4" - MLM-44504
Atwood Sprayless Disconnect Universal - ATT-8838US6

 

[electricaldoctor]

Yes it does. It's an Atwood sprayless connection. Both male and female ends of the connection have a check valve and only open when engaged. http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/universal-sprayless-connector

I don't like dealing with spilled fuel in the bilge which I get when I disconnect the fuel line in order to tie in the remote tank.

Before I started to store my boat indoor heated, I simply slowly introduced ATF fluid into throat of carburetor to fog the engines. No disconnecting fuel lines.

 

[Lazy Daze]

That's coming along nicely, Dale! Next Fall is going to be really nice - just "click and turn" and that's all you have to do to winterize. Almost like cheatin'!

On the downside, I didn't realize how dirty the grout lines on my kitchen table had gotten... :lol:

Before I started to store my boat indoor heated, I simply slowly introduced ATF fluid into throat of carburetor to fog the engines. No disconnecting fuel lines.

Dale has MPI fuel injected engines. Adding something into the throttle body is a no-no.

 

[Strecker25]

This is a cool idea, I just filled the fuel filter this year (we have TBI) but I would like to do it by the book next go around. I like BT's idea of a Y valve on the inlet to the fuel filter. One with a QD for the external tank and the other for the fuel inlet. Our spin on filters are easily accessible on both motors.

 

[DaleM]

Another way to do this might be to get fittings that match up the connectors on the existing hoses and tie is in that way. Would eliminate the cutting part.

One thing I didn't mention was that I did use a paste thread sealant on everything. The quick disconnect came with a sealant already installed.

 

[electricaldoctor]

The filters should catch any excess thread compound.

 

[Bt Doctur]

In my case, there is no spin on filter. The cool fuel module contains a canister type filter only.

Check again , a plastic cover covers it and its right above the cool fuel pump setup that is mounted on the stbd side of the motor.
If this is not the case, seriously consider adding a remote spin on.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Check again , a plastic cover covers it and its right above the cool fuel pump setup that is mounted on the stbd side of the motor.
If this is not the case, seriously consider adding a remote spin on.

Doc, things have changed over the last decade or two. He has a drop-in filter element - no spin-on. It's a little more intricate than the simple spin-on, with the cool fuel function and filter all integrated into one unit. But if he did have the spin on filter, the cool fuel setup would then be on the opposite side of the engine than the filter.

 

[DaleM]

The filters should catch any excess thread compound.

I thought the same thing. And when I did put the paste on the threads I stayed away from the initial 2-3 threads and applied it only to the root of the thread. My hope was I avoided getting anything in the fuel path itself by doing so. I know teflon - tape is a no go.

I'll be hanging out in the bilge for the first few weeks checking for leaks as it is

One other comment, I could not due to the length of the fuel barb adapters get two clamps on each side. (maybe that's more of a 'come-clean' statement) for those looking or wondering.

 

[DaleM]

Fired up today and NO LEAKS! She's in the slip but haven't done a true shake down run yet for the season though I don't anticipate any issues. Just passing along.

 

[fwebster]

I have not had the greatest luck depending upon check valves, unless they are very expensive brass or stainless ones. As a safety measure against the plastic quick connect leaking fuel in the bilge, you may consider buying a couple of extra female quick connect fittings which you then plug and leave on the male fitting when you are not fogging the engines. That keep the rubber parts in the Atwood fitting from weathering and drying out and forms a fail safe for the check valve.

 

[DaleM]

I have not had the greatest luck depending upon check valves, unless they are very expensive brass or stainless ones. As a safety measure against the plastic quick connect leaking fuel in the bilge, you may consider buying a couple of extra female quick connect fittings which you then plug and leave on the male fitting when you are not fogging the engines. That keep the rubber parts in the Atwood fitting from weathering and drying out and forms a fail safe for the check valve.

Noted. With the way this thing works in the normal 'run' position the male side of the fitting is isolated from the fuel path based on how the bronze valve works. If you're talking about having a female fitting to act as a cover that part makes sense. What that does do is 'opens' the fitting based on the way the check valves work inside the disconnect. Just need to make a mental note that if for some reason beyond the need for fogging you swing the valve over you need to remove that female fitting first otherwise the check valves inside the disconnect are open and would allow fuel to spill. I guess you could attach a small section of hose with a plug on the end of the female side to prevent that.

 

[DaleM]

Ok, sadly the end of the season officially hit today. I'm HAPPY to say that the fogging valve saved me a TON of time and a TON of mess/cleanup. I wrapped a paper towel around the fogging tank connector and there was MAYBE a drop of fuel into the towel! Probably one of the best mods done to date! Thanks Lazy Daze! Fogging was a matter of minutes this time as compared to hours in the past.