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Quick release fogging set up
- Thread starter DaleM
- Start date
dpmulvey
Active Member
- Dec 19, 2007
- 4,188
- Boat Info
- 1999/2007 330 Sundancer Hardtop.
- Engines
- 6.2 Merc Horixons
1.5:1 Velvet Drives
Just caught this as well. Very nice. Out of ignorance, could you have put it in a more convenient location or does the hose length from tank to engine play a role in fuel deliver?
DaleM
Member
Lazy Daze may be more of an authority in this. When I did it I wanted the fuel filters to be downstream of the external tank in case there's crud floating in there that they would catch before it hit the cool fuel, the fuel/water seps, etc. In other words as much protection as I could get. I don't have the cool fuel cartridge filters like on the newer gen CF systems.
I think if you moved it further back towards the tank the only think you would need to take in consideration is to run the engines longer at the recommended RPM (1300) and time (5 min) for MPIs to allow for the added length of fuel line to take up the mixture.
Honestly I ran both engines a lot longer on the external tank than recommended because I did so to flush the engine by putting a hose in the strainer WHILE on the external tank. Then allowed the engine to continue to run to warm up the oil so I could change. After the oil change, continued to run the engine on the external tank while while I fed pink into the strainer. When finished I shut down and moved over to the other engine. Engine 1 done, repeat.
I would think placement is fine as long as you allow enough time for the line to pull enough cocktail through from the external tank. No idea how long that is though. I had a little bit of smoke from the exhaust which I'm hoping was from the two-cycle oil that was included in the external tank per the Mercruiser fogging instructions. (something link 64oz to 5 gal of gas, etc). It's online.
FWIW - I now know why I always had a residual gas smell in my boat come spring. Though not wrong, the previous mechanics who worked on this boat would tap into the main fuel line to do the fogging. Last season was the first time i did the fogging and I cleaned up my fuel mess to the OCD level and no smell this spring! Anyway, The extra fuel would spill out and get cleaned up somewhat with towels by them, but remained there over the winter to evaporate - hence the smell.
I think if you moved it further back towards the tank the only think you would need to take in consideration is to run the engines longer at the recommended RPM (1300) and time (5 min) for MPIs to allow for the added length of fuel line to take up the mixture.
Honestly I ran both engines a lot longer on the external tank than recommended because I did so to flush the engine by putting a hose in the strainer WHILE on the external tank. Then allowed the engine to continue to run to warm up the oil so I could change. After the oil change, continued to run the engine on the external tank while while I fed pink into the strainer. When finished I shut down and moved over to the other engine. Engine 1 done, repeat.
I would think placement is fine as long as you allow enough time for the line to pull enough cocktail through from the external tank. No idea how long that is though. I had a little bit of smoke from the exhaust which I'm hoping was from the two-cycle oil that was included in the external tank per the Mercruiser fogging instructions. (something link 64oz to 5 gal of gas, etc). It's online.
FWIW - I now know why I always had a residual gas smell in my boat come spring. Though not wrong, the previous mechanics who worked on this boat would tap into the main fuel line to do the fogging. Last season was the first time i did the fogging and I cleaned up my fuel mess to the OCD level and no smell this spring! Anyway, The extra fuel would spill out and get cleaned up somewhat with towels by them, but remained there over the winter to evaporate - hence the smell.
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David, you could certainly put the connection point in another location. At some point, the diameter of fuel hose would have to be increased due to internal resistance to flow increasing as length increases. It sort of like the same reason you need to increase the size of electrical wire as you have a longer run. I do not know at what point that would be (there are calculations that can be done), but I would venture a pretty good guess that anywhere one would normally locate it at would not affect anything. Meaning, the length would have to be pretty long to start having a realistic impact on this... especially considering you're really only running the engine at a slightly elevated RPM.
One of the things Dale and I had discussed was keeping things compact, yet reachable without having to do any major gyrations. We also discussed keeping the connection point/apparatus in a relatively protected area (so as not to be stepped on), hence the location he ultimately chose. But it could absolutely be put in another location, such as the transom locker, possibly inside a protective box of some sort. An outdoor, weatherproof electrical box (hinged lid) comes to mind as a first thought.
As a side note, there are times during "diagnosis" of certain fuel-related problems that you would plumb a portable fuel tank to the engine to eliminate the existing fuel line and tank as a variable. In Dale's case, he's ready to go... although I'm certainly not wishing any problem on his (or the new owner's!) boat!!!
One of the things Dale and I had discussed was keeping things compact, yet reachable without having to do any major gyrations. We also discussed keeping the connection point/apparatus in a relatively protected area (so as not to be stepped on), hence the location he ultimately chose. But it could absolutely be put in another location, such as the transom locker, possibly inside a protective box of some sort. An outdoor, weatherproof electrical box (hinged lid) comes to mind as a first thought.
As a side note, there are times during "diagnosis" of certain fuel-related problems that you would plumb a portable fuel tank to the engine to eliminate the existing fuel line and tank as a variable. In Dale's case, he's ready to go... although I'm certainly not wishing any problem on his (or the new owner's!) boat!!!
DaleM
Member
Lazy Daze, For the record a friend with a 280 is doing this mod today. He said he would have to crack into the fuel system anyway so while he's down there he is going install the hardware. It was an absolute timesaver this year! This is probably a 2-pill on the 'ibuprofen difficulty chart'.
DaleM
Member
So far I believe he's moving forward with the same configuration that we/I went with.
DaleM
Member
Port engine was the biggest challenge due to clearances between the spar and the flat area where the HWH, holding tank, etc sits. I did use a 90* drill adapter for that. Also for me based on the fuel filter location placement of the valve needed to be carefully worked so the port engine seacock valve was free and clear to be moved. There wasn't a good flat spot on the spar surface based on how it was glassed. If you were to view my port valve "face on", you'd see the valve is actually not level from left to right, but cocked at an angle to account for the surfaces and the clearances. You just have to hold it in place before you start chopping into fuel lines to make sure you can throw the fuel valve and the seacock valve based on position so that they don't interfere with each other.
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